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The Villas Cave 🚫

Climbing in this area is closed.

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Description

The cave with the shell midden floor was once a popular bouldering area but was declared closed in December 2016 by Sutherland Shire Council and Dept Enviroment and Heritage as the cave is considered an aboriginal occupation site.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on the obvious edge just right of the arete, traverse right to finish (stay below the sandy jugs)

From the big jug a couple of metres right of the corner, go straight up to the sandy jugs. The back wall is off for your feet

Start on the lip of the roof, 1m right of big jug to the finish.

Crag Classic

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

The first V12 in OZ! Very powerful.

FA: Paul Westwood

Contact finishing up Savage

Hard for the grade. Sustained, pumpy and powerful.

Neil

FA: Paul Westwood, 2000

Start 'Savage', finish 'Paul's Present', no back wall.

FA: Chris Webb Parsons, 2007

Direct finish to Shoosh - go straight up around the lip without using the juggy lip hold out right

FA: Tom Farrell

A great present from the Toni and Klem road trip of '99. Very committing, desperate and good. Pad out the landing well as falling from the top out would be very ugly.

FA: Toni Lamprecht, 2000

Paul's Present finishing up Exit Wounds.

mattias braach-maksvytis

FA: @burncube, 11 Aug 2015

Start Exit Wounds and make four or five moves linking into Paul's Present. Could be soft?

Cory Cook

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 2013

2 metres right of PP. Start on a good edge and an undercling (to the left of the small rock). Move powerfully out the roof left of the crack, and then bodly up the airy headwall trending left.

mattias braach-maksvytis

From the back of the cave, follow the holds out the roof crack (no jamming required). Dodgy landing, finish rightwards.

Start in underclings at the back of the cave (back wall is on), climb out and into right hand side of scoop, then move right and across to the big pockets, before tackling the powerful headwall. Bad landing

Up just left of small tree

Up left of 'The Crack'

The awesome offwidth - jam it.

25m further right of 'The Crack'. In the cave.

Start matched on the obvious crimpy ledge on the left of the bloc. Traverse right across the seam, then up to finish on the slopey ledge at the base of the roof

Start: 3 metres right of 'Grande'

FA: Brett Heino

Activity

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