A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Table of contents
- 1. FJ Holden Area 13 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. FJ Holden Area 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -33.973103, 151.015116
description
The best sector here. Named after the infamous 1970’s film shot partly in Revesby. The problems in this area are mostly on the large block 15m off the track. Best decent from the top of the block is by bridging with the main cliff line.
access issues
For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing
approach
About 40m past the Worker's club, see the massive block about 25m off the track.
ethic
General take out what you bring in.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Commodore Station Wagon
Start as far right as possible on the lip of the small cave. Traverse left and into Commodore. | V4 | ||||||
| 2 |
★★ Commodore
Standing start at arête / feature on front right of the block. Straight up and over. Often full of leaves! FA: dwebster, 2012 | V1 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
To be sneezed at
Start as for Not To Be Sneezed At but go up and right (tree is out). FA: Demetrius, 1 Aug 2018 | V1 | 4m | |||||
| 4 |
Not to be sneezed at
Sit start at left end of slight over hang at lay back / arête feature. Move up and left ward over slab. FA: dwebster, 2012 | V3 | 4m | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ SS Holden
Same start as NtbSa. Traverse the lip left till you reach funky feature. Up and over. The obvious extension all the way to the arête still waits! FA: dwebster, 2012 | V4 | 6m | |||||
| 6 |
★★ FJ Holden
Nice. Standing start in two runnels. Move slightly leftward to lip. Feet out right and over lip rightward. Quite nice. Set: dwebster, 2012 | V4 | 3m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Almost a V8 Holden
Just missing a cylinder or two. Start at arête at left end of block. Up then R to short flake. Over lip to decent hold. Worth inspecting the top and cleaning top holds before attempting. Crux is relatively high and the decent hold can get dirty. FA: dwebster, 2012 | V6 | 5m | |||||
| 8 |
Reverse Camber
Awkward. Up the arête on its left side. FA: dwebster, 2012 | V2 | 4m | |||||
| 9 |
★ Kombi Crash
Named after the dead Kombi a little further along the track. Easiest way up the ramp about 2m L of arete. FA: dwebster, 2012 | V1 | ||||||
| 10 |
One for Sweetness
Slab just right of arete on main clif line close to C. Up slab using round arête (with some decent bits) on L. FA: dwebster, 2012 | V4 | ||||||
| 11 |
★★ Pinky and the brain
Start with two hands in the jugs and feet on the bottom ledge. Move slightly left and up over slopey topout. FA: Earl Paras | V4 | 5m | |||||
| 12 |
Pinky and the left side of the brain
Start at the two smaller holds to the left of PATB's start. Stay left and top out at Pinky and the brain. FA: Earl Paras | V3 | ||||||
| 13 |
Pinky and the right side of the brain.
Start at PATB but go straight up and right. FA: Earl Paras | V3 | ||||||
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2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| V1 | ★★ | Commodore | 3m | ||
| ★ | Kombi Crash | ||||
| To be sneezed at | 4m | ||||
| V2 | Reverse Camber | 4m | |||
| V3 | Not to be sneezed at | 4m | |||
| Pinky and the left side of the brain | |||||
| Pinky and the right side of the brain. | |||||
| V4 | ★★ | Commodore Station Wagon | |||
| ★★ | FJ Holden | 3m | |||
| One for Sweetness | |||||
| ★★ | Pinky and the brain | 5m | |||
| ★★★ | SS Holden | 6m | |||
| V6 | ★ | Almost a V8 Holden | 5m |