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Description

Small but well-featured bouldering with excellent sub-V5 problems in peaceful bush land. Rock is heavily featured with routes mostly involving long moves between slopers or jugs. Nice flat landing and clean topouts mean that no mat is required. A major cleanup of trash was done here - so if you see any rubbish left by others please take it out with you.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

It's located just behind the Yamaha Music School (now the Janalli College SGSCC) off Sutherland Road, opposite Louise St, Janalli. Walk in their entrance gate and around to the right of the first building. Hook around left behind this building and follow small track left through bush and down a little cliff. The bouldering is visible from here on left about 50m away.

Routes

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Grade Route

Good warm-up pumper. Starts from the far left of the cliff on black slabs, and traverses the high juggy break to the major tree. Top out with care.

Overhung scooped feature on left side.

Sit start, side pulls and heel hook on left side of scoop. Up left to horizontal break then straight up to top

FA: Jimmy Bliss, 2 Apr 2016

Hands on right side of scoop, heel into scoop then grunt up to good holds.

Start on black rock under tree growing out of cliff. Trend up left on slimpers to juggy finish.

Start on black rock under tree and climb subtle arete finishing right of tree. There is a kind of scary detached block at the end.

Thin vertical problem up the orange seam. Intense sidepulls to break then easy juggy finish and great topout.

Easiest line here up slabby black face.

Left side of roof section straight up with good holds to finish.

Up little protruding feature starting down to the right.

Up using little slimper on the left and long move to hold on the right. Mantle out sandy slopers.

Starts at far right side of crag, and traverse the horizontal break from right to left finishing at tree on vertical wall.

Activity

Check out what is happening in The School (Bouldering).