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Description

Small steep crag right next to the Old Illawara fire trail that heads down to the popular Needles swimming spot on the Woronora River. Not a whole lot of potential here but the rock quality is great and the access is super easy. The cliff gets afternoon sun but is short enough that trees give it dappled shade. If it gets all too hot continue down the fireroad to one of the best swimming spots in Sydney.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

5 minutes downhill walk. The crag is located directly below 81 Thomas Mitchel Drive, Barden Ridge but it is a bit of a scramble down and it's best not to alert the Trueman Show residents of our activities. So instead, park down the road at 83 Old Illawarra Rd, and walk into the bush on the major fireroad. At the first intersection take the left road that leads steeply left and downhill. Follow this for about 100m until a small cliff appears on the left hand side of the track. Look for orange overhang facing north and bolts. Scramble up 10m to base of crag.

Routes

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Grade Route

Little layback corner. Can be used as a variant start to Kaching.

FA: Some Shire kid with a can of spraypaint, 1992

Kachoong in miniature. Wall just right of corner crack, then out roof flake and up juggy headwall to double RB lower-off.

FA: Neil Monteith, 21 Jun 2014

Juggerlicious up high. Face just right of Kaching then right to steep juggy prow. Finish left along horizontal flake above roof to chain anchor. You can even topout if you wish.

FA: Neil Monteith, 21 Jun 2014

The 'slab' on the right edge of the little wall. Two bolts to small ledge, then a tricky move to jugs and final mantle top-out. Lower-off anchors on wall well back.

FA: Neil Monteith, 21 Jun 2014

Activity

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