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Description

Small section of cliff literally overhanging the dirt road leading south from the causeway at the popular swimming spot of the Needles. Faces north so gets all day sun.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

You can approach the causeway from either the north or south side of the river. The southern method is slightly shorter. Park near 56 Woronora Rd, Engadine and follow gated bitumen road for 10 minutes downhill. The cliff is on the right about 50m before the river. For the northern approach - park at 83 Old Illawarra Rd, Bardens Ridge and follow gated dirt fireroad downhill to the river. Cross the causeway and the cliff is 50m up the continuation of the road on the left.

History

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100 years ago road builders cut their way down this small cliffline to establish the Old Illawara Rd. Then climbers arrived.

Routes

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Grade Route

Slick as! Unique smooth orange wall capped by bulges. Boulder problem start up slopers and flake feature, left to big pocket then up through reachy bulges. Hands on the top for the tick.

FA: Neil Monteith, 29 Jun 2014

Activity

Check out what is happening in Needles Causeway.