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The Wedges

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 5
  • Ascents: 27
20

Seasonality

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Description

Funky highball easy slabs (with anchors for toproping)

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Walk down 2 minutes as for the cathedral till you get to a little rock step. Go straight ahead under a little cave where the first problems are. Go 10m then down to the base of the first wedge.

Routes

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Grade Route

Start matched in the mini-cave to the left of 'Tufa One', resisting the urge to place feet on broken block. Move through the short cave onto face holds then up into break, moving right around the arete onto jug then top out.

Set by Mikl

FA: J. Budden, 3 Sep 2014

Where you walk past a short overhang, this is the tufa-like line. Start in the back, thru roof, and up.

FA: mikl, 2014

Stand-start on the slot jug on the right arete of the Tufa One bloc (back wall on for feet). Dyno to rounded nose on arete and move left, topping out as for Tufa One.

FA: Brett Heino, 20 Sep 2014

Same start as TTCPC, but twist and thrutch you way up the right arete and chimney, with delicious knee-bars and rounded slopers.

FA: Patrick Burr & Drew Ivison, 20 Jun

Up the crack

FA: mikl, 2013

Start up on hanging plate 1m R of Butt Crack. Finish up thin pinchy rib thing

FA: mikl, 2013

Start on left side of right arete. one hard move then up easy slab and arete.

FA: mikl, 2013

Step on from Right side of right arete and up easy slab and arete.

FA: Gareth Downey, 2013

Start under left arete, back wall is on for first move only. Slap up and hand-traverse up 45 degree arete.

FA: mikl, 2013

Standing start, pull up and onto right side of arete. Sit start as for Choc Barbarian adds a grade

FA: mikl, 2013

The top slab is a bit harder. Start 2m right of centre on 2 handed rail and pull onto slab, then drift left then up.

FA: mikl, 2013

Start far right in corner on big slopes (right boulder is off) and up to easy finish.

FA: Gareth Downey, 2013

Start on big slopes just left of corner (as for SSYP) and then traverse the lip (back wall is on for feet till you get to the pockets/toehooks at the start of Choc Barbarian) and finish up Chocolate Barbarian. A classic pumper.

FA: mikl, 2014

Tenuous laybacking, start on left egde and layback directly up the left edge, the 2 holds in the centre of the slab are off

FA: mikl, 2014

Short and funky and slabby. Start on the left edge and head up to 2 good holds in the centre of the slab.

FA: mikl, 2013

Start left side of R arete, pull on then easier.

FA: Jeff Crass, 2013

Right side of arete with awkward start

FA: Gareth Downey, 2013

Up left side of tombstone boulder

Instead of going under the cave to the bouldering, continue down the Cathedral track for 20m to a slabby boulder just left of the track. Up the centre of the tombstone

right side of slab, starting on jugs

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