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Description

Fun little cliff and cave on the far eastern end of the cliff-line south of Bangor. Good cracks, roofs and general thuggery.

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Park at southern end of Koorabar Road in Bangor (same carpark at Lost World). Walk directly south to powerlines that run down to river far below. Find well-worn walking track heading downhill between boulders under the powerlines and follow this down and left. After 50m or so if turns R and goes down a small set of steps. Continue for about 20m after this then leave the track and head uphill to cliff, skirt R along base of mini cliff to arrive at 10m high cave with painted route name initials at the base of some short steep cracks.

History

View historical timeline

Like many of the cliffs in the Shire, this one has been climbed on sometime in the past. Did they lead these routes or top-rope them? Who knows. There are two rusty carrots on top.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Three bolted routes on a featured wall with two distinct corners to start on the right side. The steeper left side is split by a large ledge.

Left line on the first major bit of rock. Swing up jugs on left side of overhung scoop to large ledge. Punch straight up the guts of the cave above finishing on jutting prow.

FA: Neil Monteith, 6 Jun 2015

Middle line. Starts with powerful layback with undercut start. Rest on the ledge then swing up the right wall - taking care with the giant protruding plate. It's been jumped on by a fat father, so should be ok.

FA: Neil Monteith & Wade Stewart, 31 May 2015

Right side of buttress, starting at right facing corner. Tricky start then heaps of slopers right to the top. Surprisingly tricky.

FA: Neil Monteith & Wade Stewart, 31 May 2015

Start right of 'Layback Knack' in the middle of the nice grey wall. Heave thru the overlap and cruise to the top.

An extended draw on the 2nd bolt will help protect your rope if you fall off.

Set by Jason Lammers, 26 Oct 2016

FA: Jason Lammers, 1 Nov 2016

10m right of Two Hour Interval. A featured and quite steep bolted wall and cave with some bonus good bouldering in the smaller cave on the left.

Start on high wall up and left of A Close Shave.

FA: Michael Law, 2015

Start up overhung offwidth, then cut left across little wall and up arete. Maximizes the cliff height!

FA: Ben Williams, 2015

Sit-start on left side of mini cave in back of main cave. Climb left side of offwidth to finish hold just past first bolt of A Close Shave. Or continue into that route for the traverse to the left arete for extra bonus finish (spotter required!).

FA: Neil Monteith, 26 May 2015

Straight up v overhung corner past dodgy looking block (which is pretty solid) then left thru bulge to anchor on Ben Williams Route.

FA: Jason Budden, 15 Aug 2015

Undercut start then hand traverse right along break then up easy crack. Unknown history.

FA: unknown 80s?

Long and classy. Sit start in far back of cave - then straight out ceiling on awesome pinches to finish on starting jug of Ultrafix. Don't cut loose on the lip and drop off the edge!

FA: Neil Monteith, 25 May 2015

Start at lip of the boulder cave, pulling up just below first bolt. Up and slight left.

FA: Daniel Palmer, May 2015

Undercut boulder start off knobs - then direct up the arete to shared last bolt and anchor with IsoFix.

FA: Neil Monteith, 27 May 2015

Start as for SE corner, then trend left across face to tricky arete.

FA: Neil Monteith, 25 May 2015

Left facing corner with dirty top and large tree to belay off. History unknown.

FA: Unknown 80s?

Super juggy arête pillar thing on left side of cave. Dirty top out. History unknown.

FA: Unknown 80s

Climb JM until level with big roof. Traverse right on second higher bolt to anchor.

FA: Jason Budden, 15 Aug 2015

Up easy corner to lower off below roof.

FA: unknown

Set by Mikl Law, 2015

Start up Enjugment then over roof and R to top

FA: Michael Law, 2015

Middle of orange cave 10m R of Ultrafix Left. Up to roof and out. Easiest to backjump.

FA: Mikl Law, 2015

Ladder of jugs.

Set by Jason Budden, 2015

FA: Heidi Doughty & Jason Budden, 15 Aug 2015

Boulder up under roof, and punch on !!

Set 26 Oct 2016

Activity

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