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Description

A small cave overlooking George's River. Rock quality is generally reasonable, with a high headwall. Plenty of possibility for more routes, the developers just aren't good enough to do them!

Access issues inherited from Sutherland

For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing

Approach

Just a kilometer or two from Revesby Rocks along Henry Lawson Drive, this crag has a slighly longer walk in. Coming from Picnic Point (heading east along Henry Lawson Drive), park on the left side of the road (not heaps of room - perhaps find somewhere else) when you see a brown sign reading 'George's River National Park'. This is just near the top of the hill. Cross the road and go through the gate. Follow the fire trail which turns immediately right, following the road, then pulls away left. Follow this for around 200m before it turns left again. Not much later (!60m?) there's a significant path to the right. Follow this for around 40m and you'll find yourself at a look out of sorts, surrounded by short cliffs. There's a few decent short things here. Drop down this cliff line and head right and down the hill (there's a sort of ramp). Within 30m you'll find the cave. Hard to miss.

History

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Scoped out by Dan Webster then developed one good day with the help of Ryan Myers and Darcey.

Routes

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Grade Route

Unknown problem about 3m right of CF. Straight up. Bad landing.

FA: 2012

Just right of small triangular rock on the ground, at the middle/right end of the crag. Basically move straight up staying just left of the crack, but using it. Not as bad as the name suggests!

FA: dwebster, 2012

As for CF. Good jug. (marked SN on the photo.) Keeping feet off the easy rocks, move up the rising ramp/arete till the jug.

FA: 2012

As So close. Keep going up the arete, then straight to the top.

FA: dwebster, 2012

Jump up to holds on top of nose 4m left of previous climbs. Traverse break right, then up arete, and straight (as for end of So Natural).

FA: 2012

From big hold in back right of cave, traverse left along undercling, then straight out along line till nose. Go under nose, finishing with hands on top.

FA: dwebster, 2012

As for Side to side, but continue on through The Change Up. Tiring.

FA: dwebster, 2012

As for Side to Side in big hold. Move out to next undercling rail. Then left to jugs, finishing on nose.

FA: dwebster, 2012

Starting about 3m left of the nose, sit start on small feature at left end of scoop. Right and out nose, finishing on front side of it.

FA: 2012

As for JLB. Follow line out right, but move upward through scoop and keep going to the top. Careful... Named after the red hold that crumbled before the first ascent. It wasn't the only one...

FA: 2012

Start in the same pinch/jug as DTtRB with easy feet. Reach out left under the roof to two small holds on a flake (one at the end, the other on the right). Toe hook and make a big move for the lip. Then traverse lip R until you can mantle.

FA: dwebster, 2012

Follow the arete up without using the right rock.

FA: Charity Maj, 12 Dec

Up to the tortoise heads for a top out.

FA: Postman, 12 Dec

Tricky start with an unknown finish.

Activity

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