Routes in Sutherland for selected grade

Slabby start then keep to the left

Start to the right of Shoulder On using its second bolt stay to the right up over the right side of the overhang shares anchors with Shoulder On

4m right of GanbaGanba. Up the Arete to gain cave. mantle up top block (crux). A few old carrots on the way up, bring bolt plates if you want to trust them. Single rusty carrot up top but good tree not far on right (top of GanbaGanba) can be used in an anchor.

Short offwidth in between Giles and Kim's moon project. Start above bush. Pretty good, no cheater holds. Too wide for hand stacks. Can bump a #6 cam the whole way up. Rap off bolts either side. Tom Bes FA

Start as for McGuyver and up, move left to single bolt lower off for Iota. Soloed then bolted.

Nice wall with a hard thin start and easy finish. Start at big pockets on left side of tall wall. Most people go right into Brown Hornet for a move, then back left to 2nd bolt. Cruxy thin moves for three bolts to ledge. Up to steep flake with cool, easy moves, then right and up to lower-off anchor.

Start 1m right of S. Stickclip first ring and boulder the bulge at the start to pockets. Trend right for a few bolts then straight up the middle of wall above to shared lower-off with S.

Start 25m R of main wall, some 5m R of the smooth orange section (Breaking Good) at a thin seam, and about 2m R of a corgi-sized boulder (It's a Wrap) sitting on the ledge. Marked gK. May have been an old top-rope route.(clip 1st bolt with a single screwgate to limit fall distance and unclipping)

Tricky slab 2m R of NK and 3m L of an orange left-facing corner (VC), then super orange stone and left to laybacks. 4 rings. Share loweroff with NK.

Hand traverse the lip of the roof, then mantle up to join T.

Start: As for T.

Medium cams finish at shared anchors

Short climb with a couple of nice technical moves.

Start right side of Balz Zack as a alternate route and into shared anchors.

Crux is the start traverse to bolts facing right side of arete added extra bolt to eliminate run out for 3rd clip

Start at internal vertical crack and traverse left under roof then through chimney to finish to anchors.

Climb onto vegetated ledge as for previous route. Now climb the right line of juggy holds up the bulge above.

Sit start on ledge, move up to horn before dyno to lip of arete. Mantle top out

Sit start matched on low jug. Move left up ledge to horn, finish as of ‘Diagon Alley’

Low start on jug in ledge

Standing start, pull up and onto right side of arete. Sit start as for Choc Barbarian adds a grade

Instead of going under the cave to the bouldering, continue down the Cathedral track for 20m to a slabby boulder just left of the track. Up the centre of the tombstone

The first route on the crag. Funky start up corner to ledge then hard arete. Optional finshing pitch above is a nice 12 onto the summit.

Mostly easy bridging up a hand and fist crack (or add thin roof crack start). Take (age/10) each of yellow and blue camalots, 2 hex 10s are handy too. Crack corner between TDD and JC, either step off block or crank thin crack start. Easilyto roof and a move, then up to final juggy chimney.

Pleasant crack to pea-pod and continue straight up the wide crack above past 3 stainless carrots.

Hard undercut start then up on good edges and slopey pockets. Easier for those with gibbon arms.

Thin crack at the base of the gully on the left wall as you walk down, One hard move then up crack and nose on right to easy top out, good gear all the way (you can put a high cam in the protect the start). Double U anchor, best to abseil to avoid rope wear.

Tricky stuff up and around the arete. Probably best to finish on anchors as for GGG. 3 new RBs

Start: On rounded arete

RD on Sydney Rockies reads : Start as for ALH, traverse left & up. Given that ALH is 1m right of In Depth corner crack, its difficult to understand where this "route" is.

On the back of The Block, to the right of the 'PLEASE DONT PISS HERE' writing in chalk.

2 ring bolts to double u bolt belay.

To the right of Please Don't Piss Here, on the back of the The Block. And, as the disgruntled boulderer has written in chalk, don't pee here.

Wall 1m Left of Grotto Crack, hard if you don't use the crack on the left at the 2nd U bolt. Lower off around to left. Beware the old garden seat at the top of this route from which people may throw down rocks and rubbish.

Left line on the first major bit of rock. Swing up jugs on left side of overhung scoop to large ledge. Punch straight up the guts of the cave above finishing on jutting prow.

Middle line. Starts with powerful layback with undercut start. Rest on the ledge then swing up the right wall - taking care with the giant protruding plate. It's been jumped on by a fat father, so should be ok.

Left facing corner, single U bolt in corner over the lip. History unknown.

Use ledges until crack, good hand jams then mossy, sloped top out past base of small tree.

up the tiny ledges to gain knob on edge of small ledge. Up onto this then lean out left to gain top edge then smear out onto the slope and haul yourself outta there.

Hands matched in crimp just below the edge. Once set, move up to crimpy ledge, right hand up gaston into large scoop. High feet and top out.

Same start as per Low Traverse. Once on crimpy edge, top out with a high foot.

Up and left behind the clean slate boulder is a nice slab. Start on foothold low right of block. Smear delicately up and left using some nubs and a nice pinch. topout middle of block

Start on low jug and straight up ↑

Start where 'LED' is and then move right to a big reach then, up the arete to top out. If you want you could start from 'Not all it's cracked up to be' and have some more crimps, probably for a v2.

Start as per Chicken Wings. Big move straight up to nice edge. Come around edge and mantle to top out.

Start the same as 'Louie on the low road' and take the high road to the end using the rounded slopey top to mantle.

Behind 'LED' and 'It's not all it's cracked up to be' boulder. High tufa boulder. Start with right-hand undercling low to the right and left hand on pinch. Feet low. Go up until your left hand is in the dark abyss hole and then mantle to the left.

Start in same as 'Like a stegosaurus's back' and move up right to top out. Tree makes it hard for nice fall.

Start on R side of left arete. Up, then right to flakes near top. High! Slabby!

start 2m R of Crabbing. Long long reach to first slope and up

Start with both hands on ledge. Right foot low on tiny foot flake. Move up with big reach to sloper. Then, pinch and climb out 3m of easy slab.

Slopey grit like wall climbing on giant ugly u-bolts. Step right through top.

Wall 2m R of Stopping Short, 3 little bulges.

Left leaning flared crack in behind the trees. Quite tricky layback moves and an awkward finish. A little bold if you only clip bolts. Recently retro-bolted.

Ripply slopes up a vertical wall, then exciting capstone topout. A bit sandy.

Sit start - crimpy edges up left side of slightly overhung arete. Mantle out.

Sit start - right side of arete on edges then mantle out.

The right seam crack, sit-start down right. At big break traverse off right rather than climbign sandy steepness above.

Start 2m left of I Wanna Be A Cowboy at line of very rusty carrots. Reachy horizontals to start then dirty crack. Needs a good clean and rebolt.

2m left of Jnarly, and left of tree. Up face on pockets, left with difficulty to layback flake then back right into scoop and rap anchors.

Rock has fallen down. The route is no more.

Steep little plaything. 10m left of Between Feeds on far left end of crag. Overhung flake rib on left side of orange cave then stem across and up right arete at top. This climb has unique large holds. Please treat them with care - don't climb this route after rain.

Sit start

On the block around 10m left of first slab. Start on left edge of blank wall on left sidepull and right undercling. Move left and up into crimpy dish. Get your feet in the dish and enjoy the slabby top out. Trend right at top. Be careful of the small tree near base, place pads around it.

Start deep in the cave with both hands on the inside of the lowest bulge, feet on the sandy ramp. Works best facing out. Shuffle along cave to gain undercling. Top out over prow without heading right over the pocket wall.

Sit start with LH on lower edge beneath scoop, RH in horizontal crack. Move up and left using pockets and big pinch under the roof, top out above scoop.

Sit start about 1m right of the scoop out left with hands on the big ledge. Mantle onto this then top out straight above with a second mantle.

Sit start and from the mega jug down low do a big fun dead point catch to the blob up top. Then delicately find some feet and use the arete to top out straight above. Less chossy the higher you go.

Sit start on good holds left of the scoop and move up and right into the finish of 'Hooky'.

Overhung scooped feature on left side.

Start on black rock under tree growing out of cliff. Trend up left on slimpers to juggy finish.

Start on black rock under tree and climb subtle arete finishing right of tree. There is a kind of scary detached block at the end.

Start on the rail in the roof and a toe hook on the lip. Pop to jug over lip and mantle straight up and out.

Left side of roof section straight up with good holds to finish.

Step into double undercling with feet on angled rock, move up to 2 slopey crimps towards top on right face, top out right. In memory of Luke Nowell

Start L hand on low sidepull and R on thin crimp. move up to double flakes and then delicately out.

Get in that cave. Sit start using big break and foot smears. move out to lip and then move up flakes and out

Sit start on big hold to the left of Jannali Dyno start, move up to side pull then top out.

Sit start on good slots in the scoop (left side is a jug, right side is an edge), then up through sidepulls to top out above.

Sit start from big undercling as for 'Storm' then head straight up only using holds on the light streak for your hands. Everything left and right is off limits.

Either go up to decent crimp rail and dyno to the top or balance through a few slopier holds.

Sit start, hard to to established. Then up the left chute on mega pockets.

Layback up corner crack. Sit start.

Up the left edge of the big flake

start on low break and head up to left side pull. Give a thumbs up into the pocket to gain good holds in next break for top out.

2m R of EE. Up the ledge and up wall above roof

About 2m R of 'Her name is Iris'. Up wall.

The 'slab' on the right edge of the little wall. Two bolts to small ledge, then a tricky move to jugs and final mantle top-out. Lower-off anchors on wall well back.

The large chimney leading to the crack, just right of '2 Stroke'. Stem the start, without dabbing the unattached rock and go straight up. Hand jams are possible but entirely unnecessary.

The large chimney leading to the crack, just right of '2 Stroke'. Stem the start, without dabbing the unattached rock and go straight up. Hand jams are possible but entirely unnecessary.

Fun little bouldery route. 3 bolts to lower off, or link into ‘Gargamel’

Climb LinkedIn and go straight up to the crux of Lovin' Lockdown to get full value from this line. You can run out the easy middle section or extend the draw to reduce drag. Feel free to point out if this link-up's already been climbed!

A short but fun route with a short but punchy roof finish.

Another easy route at the crag. 5m left of Fusions, Tricky start over little overlap then up featured seam crack to break. Finish straight up to double U bolt anchor under roof.

From the back wall out right in the roof to mantle up on ledge.

Sit start on the low break - arete is out. Top out to finish.

Sit start matched on a good edge on the lower boulder, move up to the main rock and up to the top. Top of the lower boulder is off

Sit start with left in the pocket and right in the underling. Right one move wonder to the top and don't forget to say "Yeehaw!" As you mantle.

Lowish start under low right hand arete with left hand in sidepulls. Move up and left to the middle of the face, then up. Sit start variant: Start matched on the right hand arete/undercling. Awkward thrutchy move to the pocket sidepull probably adds a grade.

Sit start with matched pinches on the low arete left of 'Waterboardia'. Follow the arete up, then straight up to top.

Straight up face then traverse left into the obvious slot. Straight up to top out.

Hand and foot jam up the obvious crack, moving to crimps on the slab then up to top out.