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North Ridge

14
AU

Seasonality

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Summary

More north facing rock, offers some shade

Description

North Ridge is the ridge directly opposite the valley from Plebians Wall.

Approach

Head up the valley track to the Colosseum. Where the track goes up a little rise, and then takes a hard right turn to head up the valley below, there is a tree with purple markers. Keep going straight ahead to pick up the track up the ridge marked with purple tape. The track zig zags up the ridge, then contours around left to the buttresses.

Routes

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Grade Route

Follow the track 50m past Romance Buttress.

The orange streak. Glorious jug hauling leads to a harder finish

FA: Jon Nermut, DAve Humpries & Dave Humpries, Oct 2018

The wall to the right of Stella's Climb.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humpries, Oct 2018

Nice to revisit techniques from the olden days. Climb the crack clipping the bolts on Sunbeam. When this becomes too difficult, run it out trad style or place one or more 1/2-2 cam units (also trad style). Clip the Sunbeam anchors.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humpries, Oct 2018

Interesting climbing on the left side of the turret.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humpries, Sep 2018

Just past Romance Buttress.

Nice moves up the bulging arête, with the crux at the top. For full value start at the base and avoid stepping right onto the block.

FA: David Stephenson & Neale Smith, Nov 2019

The big buttress you come to after the track crosses a big broad gully

Finger crack then thin face on left side of buttress. Start from high ledge (there is a belay bolt), or belayer can stay on the ground.

FA: Neale Smith & Bob Bull, Feb 2019

A Sand River classic. This wall and arete looks many grades harder from the ground, and offers great moves and positions. Thin traverse right to gain the glorious arete.

FA: Bob Bull & Neale Smith, Feb 2019

A fine climb up the left side of the front of the buttress, with a couple of crux sections.

FA: Neale Smith, David Stephenson & Bob Bull, Sep 2019

A great mix of styles up the right side of the prominent buttress. Holds appear when desired. Will improve with age

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humpries, Oct 2018

The corner system on the south facing right side of the buttress. Physical climbing up the initial corner, then tough laybacking around the roof let with poor feet.

FA: Neal Smith & Bob Bull, Feb 2019

This is the orange/yellow buttress at the top of the hill. Approach by scrambling up the gully before Romance Buttress, or traverse across the tops of the lower cliffs from the right

Engaging and varied climbing, with a mix of steep moves, technical mantles, and thin face climbing

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, Nov 2018

Steep climbing on jugs that keep appearing when you need them.

FA: Jon Nermut & Dave Humphries, Nov 2018

Short powerful overhang.

FA: Dave Humphries & Jon Nermut, Dec 2018

The overhanging crack. Steep and exciting climbing on good rock.

FA: Matt Crawford & Tony McKenny, Sep 2019

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Activity

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