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Showing all 4 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Frenchmans Cap Area Frenchmans Cap North-West Wall and Environs Solomon's Sanctuary
12 M2 Solomons Sanctuary
Aid 180m
Frenchmans Cap Area Frenchmans Cap South-East Face
16 M4 Valerie
  1. 36m (8) - Climb a number of vegetated corners to slanting ledge and bollard belay

  2. 21m (8) - Traverse left for 6m then up to below overhanging wall

  3. 36m (13) - Climb down and left onto wall and up this to belay on top of huge block

  4. 27m (8) - Traverse left for 6m across good ledge then up diagonally to belay below and left of waterfall

  5. 33m (15) - Climb diagonally R and across waterfall to belay on ledge with two pitons and other gear

  6. 24m (14) - Traverse left again for 6m then up to bollard runner and back down again, cross back across the waterfall and belay on good ledge below huge death blocks

  7. 36m (15 M4) - Free climb waterfall for 15m then aid up for 15m followed by 6m of free climbing to small wet ledge

  8. 24m (16 M4) - Three aid pieces to hard and greasy free section to finish on good ledge under roof

  9. 36m (15) - Traverse R for 3m then up another 9m to diagonal traverse right until it leads to just above a crack then up chimney to belay

  10. 27m (11) - Continue up chimney until 9m below big overhang and belay

  11. 30m (14) - Traverse R and up diagonally to ledge and piton belay

  12. 36m (14) - Climb up series of corners and steep walls to belay on good ledge under chimney

  13. 27m (14 M1) - Up chimeny til it narrows then aid up to small ledge and belay

  14. 24m (14 M1) - Up crack with two aid pieces and top out, belay on pile of rubble

FA: C Dewhirst, John Ewbank, J Moore & P Stranger, 1968

Aid 390m, 14
Frenchmans Cap Area Frenchmans Cap East Face
19 M1 Conquistador Variants

Pitch 1-4: As for Conquistador until the start of the traverse on pitch 4

  1. From start of traverse on p4 Conquistador, go striahgt up on loose flakes to top of large flake below Bus Stop ledge

  2. Downclimb other side of flake for 3m then follow the groove up for 13m then traverse 6m L on ledges then up 5m to L end of bus stop ledge

  3. As for pitches 7-9 of Conquistador

  4. Diagonally up and right to large grassy ledge below line of weakness through roof

  5. Up blank corner above ledge, tension left to corner, then up roof and exit right on huge loose blocks

FA: Simon Parsons & John Fantini, 1983

Aid 11
19 M1 Death And Transfiguration

A variation of the Fantini/Parsons variant of Conquistador. The start of this route is just before the start of the 6m diagonal traverse below Bus Stop Ledge on the Fantini/Parsons version of Conquistador.

  1. 40m (19) - Obvious line just right of belay, then right round arete at chossy steepening at about 33m, up and theb back left to small belay ledge

  2. 30m (19) - Up for 3m then left to stance, continue left into corner and up this with aid moves, before going right to belay at a chossy horizontal below a number of roofs

  3. 15m - (Crux) Reach up to clip cam, tension right around the arete then mix of aid and free moves to a ledge on the right and up 3m to belay

  4. 45m - Traverse right to join North East Passage's last few pitches.

FA: Peter Steane & Garn Cooper, 1994

Aid 130m, 4

Showing all 4 routes.

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