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The Pinnacle

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 10
  • Photos: 6
  • Ascents: 106

Seasonality

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Description

The Pinnacle lies entirely within defence (Commonwealth) land, if you enter, you are trespassing and breaking the law. The original 'peppercorn lease' and good will that existed during the 1990's and up to around 2002/03 expired when the CO Lavarack barracks retired (when he retired, the good will access also retired).

Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Do not park too close to the gate else your car may be moved. During the year, the car club holds races on the mountain road; during this time road access is closed.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

  • Take all rubbish home with you.
  • Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

The small wall on the R (facing out) with one FH. Up the easy crack till it fades, L onto the edgy face past bolt, trending L to finish.

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

Go R (facing out) at the base of the gully across a narrow causeway for about 15m to the base of a large green wall. Up crack to the base of the orange corner. Up the crack to the base of the orange corner. Up this (FH) to below rooflet then swing L onto face (FH). Face, trending L and passing another FH to the ledge. Finish up face and arete (FH).

FA: Lee Skidmore & Steve Baskerville, 1998

Situated 10m L of "State Of Love & Trust" (Gallery Cliff) but best accessed by scrambling 20m down the steep, seaward-facing gully on The Pinnacle saddle to the base of the route (on L wall of gully). Natural pro to start, then up wall (2 FH's) to beneath overhang. Through this to the L (FH) and up final wall (FH) to top.

Set by Lee Cujes, 1998

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 25 Jul 2014

1 21 15m
2 24 15m

p1. Another sustained climb on excellent rock. Start 3m L of PM below a ledge and large scoop. Climb up and L, following the line of bolts to the crux. Pull up R, then hard L to a big fin and then to the chains. p2. straight up from the anchor. unfortunately only partially bolted, thanks mark.

FFA: Mark Gommers & Chris Noon, 2003

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 25 Jul 2014

True king line of Stuart, all the best parts mixed into one route! FFA was done from ground rather then from the anchors of P1 on Midlife Crisis.

FFA: Glen Hayford, 18 Nov 2018

I guess you could call this act 2?

boulder problem on a rope, probably height dependant. don't forget to clip!

FFA: Glen Hayford, 2 May

Pretty tricky movements down low to some interesting holds up high. Better off just going to Harvey's Marbles.

Superb sustained climbing up a beautiful line. Scotts finest hour. Starts 2m R of MC, 5 carrots (fully threaded and overdriven) to natural gear. Take a wire to clip the 2nd bolt if your short. It's about a 21 to the FH and the route gets morning shade.

FA: Scott Johnson, 1991

The cracked corner on The Pinnacle visible from the Playground. More of an epic strain than a climb. Follow the crack on greasy rock into a cave (beware loose rock) and out the other side to exit.

FA: Mick Pezet & Rob Smythe, 1984

Technical slightly slabbed climbing following the bolts.

FA: Mark Newell, 2017

FFA: Glen Hayford & Elsie Bast, 15 Jul 2018

Well protected and sustained. Start by scrambling (roped) L from below PMs start to a 2 bolt belay on a tiny ledge on the arete, or do The Monsoon. Step L from the belay then up the face passing 8FHs and optional cams near the top. Still awaits the connection to the Monsoon to make a super sustained 50m pitch.

FA: Mark Gommers & Scott Johnson, 1991

Starts at the crack in the shallow chimney, 2m R of the NW arête (L of TENE) - the next one past the offwidth. Take the crack to the FH then Traverse R to TENEs belay.

FFA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 1996

Take TM to the FH then trend L past several more and a medium friend to join RTS up high. Finish as for its 2nd pitch.

FFA: Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 1996

1 18
2 22
3 20

This is fantastic & full of adventure! The second pitch provides the best climbing. Starts in the obvious corner a few metres L and downhill from TM.

  1. (18) Up the corner at the arete to a small ledge and DBB

  2. (22) Exit the corner R and straight up past FHs, veering L for a rest then take the arete all the way to the ledge.

  3. (20) Straight up the wall above with 3 carrots.

FA: Mark Gommers & Michael Dielenberg, 1991

Excellent varied climbing up the E (seaward) face of The Pinnacle. Mark Gommers removed a thorn tree from this after it split a rope. Star a few m L of RTS.

  1. The face past a carrot to the diagonal crackline L. Follow the crackline and then R to a thin seam. Up this to the overhang, clip the bolt above and traverse 2m R. Straight up the wall past 3 more carrots.

  2. As for RTS.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

Rap off the chains at top of The Pinnacle down to tree about 20m down where the semi-hanging anchor is. Pull the rope and follow the bolts to end up on big ledge on the left and follow through the cave to an opening. Sling a boulder to make a belay. If you don't like run outs this top part probably isn't for you can feel very exposed. Originally meant to go straight up the face and back to chains but Mark ran out of bolts.

FFA: Mark Newell, 2017

Ugly. Star as for M then L to the chimney and up this to the top.

FA: Peter Kingsbury & Raymond Stuart, 1994

Powerfully sustained up a threatening line. The bottomless hand crack 3m L of the deep chimney in the corner L of M. Starts on the L arete of the chimney. Up this, L onto the face past 3FHs and up the stepped crackline. DRB at the top.

FA: Mark Gommers, 1994

Starts a few metres right of Black Widow.

FFA: Nathan Bolton & Dan Radford, 2005

Start up the roots to the tight chimney then an easy but dangerous exit.

FA: Allan McGill, Zoltan Swain & Matthew Swait, 1990

FA: Nathan Bolton / Dan Radford

This route gets morning tree shade. Great crack climbing 2m L CTGPB. Climb to DBB on ledge then rap off to avoid mass off loose boulders above. Bring tapes or finish up WO.

FA: Aiden Forde & Scott Johnson, 1991

Hand and fist crack at far L end of ledge atop AB. Crack till it ends then traverse 2m L to continue with the 2nd pitch of SL.

FA: Scott Johnson & Aiden Forde, 1991

Intimidating. A fine climb with a thoughtful and sequency crux. Climb up the crack to the first roof, which is ascended on the R and continue up through the second and third roofs to the chains.

FA: Nathan Bolton & Daniel Radford

1 22 22m
2 18 18m

2 pitches of intimidating climbing, all natural except for 1 FH.

  1. 22m 22. Starts 2m R of "Step Lightly" up the easy crack to an off-width chimney (FH) which leads to a small cave with a big roof (crux). struggle through roof & up another chimney to belay ledge (try not to throw up on belayer in process).

  2. 18m 18. up obvious crack, then step L & follow seam up thin face enjoying the multitude of small wire placements. a small cam is nice for the top-out.

FA: Mark Gommers, Rik Wittkopp & Andrew Rule, 2001

1 23 30m
2 16 10m

A flaky arête about 22m L of M. Requires a gentle touch.

  1. 30m 23. Start just L of arete and enjoy long and interesting climbing past 8 BRs to a DBB. Switches to R side of the arete after 8th BR.

  2. 10m 16. More of the same past 2 BRs.

FA: Scott Johnson & Mark Gommers, 1991

1 18 20m
2 22 20m

The 2nd pitch involves some nice climbing on a heavily featured face.

  1. 20m 18 Start 6m L of SL. Climb the crack with plenty of gear through the small horizontal break with the Chockstone's and up to the large horizontal break. Traverse 2m R to a sloping ledge and the chains. The crack may contain dirt and sand.

  2. 20m 23 Climb the steep face past 7FHs. Avoid the slopers and find the positive edges until a good pocket provides a rest. There is a DBB back from the edge and chains up to the L. The chains direct he abseil into a big tree.

FA: Nathan Bolton & Adam Hardaker, 2000

Climbs the obvious hanging arete L of DB. Tricky moves to start followed by sustained climbing up the arete passing 5 FHs, take small wires for the top out.

FFA: Mark Gommers, Rik Wittkopp & Adam Hardaker, 2001

Start at the arete a few M R of SP. Climb the arete past a few FHs to reach the SP belay chains.

FFA: Adam Hardaker, Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 2001

1 18 10m
2 21 30m

First pitch originally known as "Mouth Full Of Dirt" by M Retallick and A Rule. Starts at the obvious crack 2m right of NSG.

  1. 10m 18 Up the steep and tricky crack to the ledge and belay chains.

  2. 30m 21 Climb the technical face. A hard pull around the bulge to easier ground. Several FHs and some natural pro.

FFA: Mark Gommers & Adam Hardaker, 2001

Starts at SP belay chains. Step across the void and continue R to the chains of DB.

FFA: Mark Gommers, Adam Hardaker & Rik Wittkopp, 2001

As good as "Tannin" - 35m of continuous varied climbing. All natural gear to one carrot at the top. An easier variant to SR. Start as for SR. Climb SR up the wide flake-crack to the roof. Exit roof to L and continue up the crack L of the blank corner. When the crack ends, move R and finish as for SR.

FFA: Aiden Forde & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

A classy variant of NSG. Starts 20m L of SL. Take it to the roof and the groove then move R onto the ledge above the roof. Up the clean thin corner joining NSG near the top. 1 BR near the top.

FFA: Scott Johnson, 1991

To the left of Spontaneous Ritual is a wall. Blast up this to glory.

FFA: Mark Gommers, 1998

FA: Jay Reilly TR, 1998

An interesting start then....no fun. Starts 2m R of the arete at the end of the wall. Up R to gain the arete at the end of the wall. Up and R to gain the arete and continue up the widening crack past 3FHs to the ledge and large tree. You can rap as for NSG.

FA: Dan Ellis, Paul Slattery & Julie West, 1994

Looks gross. 5m L of the previous route (YLINYLI), exit at the old tree.

The crack opposite YLINYLI to ledge then L and up crack.

FA: Paul Slattery, Dan Ellis & Julie West, 1994

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