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Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Do not park too close to the gate yor car may be moved

During the year the car club holds races on the mountian road. during this time road access is closed.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

-Take all rubbish home with you. -Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you


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Grade Route

The small wall on the R (facing out) with one FH. Up the easy crack till it fades, L onto the edgy face past bolt, trending L to finish.

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

Go R (facing out) at the base of the gully across a narrow causeway for about 15m to the base of a large green wall. Up crack to the base of the orange corner. Up the crack to the base of the orange corner. Up this (FH) to below rooflet then swing L onto face (FH). Face, trending L and passing another FH to the ledge. Finish up face and arete (FH) .

FA: Lee Skidmore & Steve Baskerville, 1998

Situated 10m L of "State Of Love & Trust" (Gallery Cliff) but best accessed by scrambling 20m down the steep, seaward-facing gully on the Pinnacle saddle to the base of the route (on L wall of gully). Natural pro to start, then up wall (2 FH's) to beneath overhang. Through this to the L (FH) and up final wall (FH) to top.

Set by Lee Cujes, 1998

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 25 Jul 2014

Yuk. The first climb on the pinnacle. The prominent offwidth on greasy rock, with a few loose blocks. At the top go so deeply that you come out the other side.

FA: Mick Pezet & Rob Smythe, 1984

Superb sustained climbing up a beautiful line. Scotts finest hour. Starts 2m R of MC, 5 carrots (fully threaded and overdriven) to natural gear. Take a wire to clip the 2nd bolt if your short. . iIts about 21 to the FH and the route gets morning shade.

FA: Scott Johnson, 1991

1 21 15m
2 24 15m

Another sustained climb on excellent rock. Start 3m L of PM below a ledge and large scoop. Climb up and L, following the line of bolts to the crux. Pull up R, then hard L to a big fin and then to the chains.

FFA: p1 Mark Gommers & Chris Noon, 2003

FFA: p2 Chris Glastonbury, 25 Jul 2014

Well protected and sustained. Start by scrambling (roped) L from below PMs start to a 2 bolt belay on a tiny ledge on the arete, or do The Monsoon. One of the belay bolts has been replaced after Pete Donelly pulled it out by hand! Step L from the belay then up the face passing 8FHs and optional cams near the top. Still awaits the connection to the Monsoon to make a super sustained 50m pitch.

FA: Mark Gommers & Scott Johnson, 1991

Starts at the crack in the shallow chimney, the next one past the offwidth. Take the crack to the FH then Traverse R to TENEs belay

FA: Mark Gommers

Take TM to the FH then trend L past several more and a medium friend to join RTS up high. Finish as for its 2nd pitch.

FA: Mark Gommers

Full of adventure. 1. Up the corner at the arete to a small ledge and bolt. There will soon be a DBB here, making the first pitch (18). Exit the corner R and straight up past FHs, veering L for a rest then take the arete all the way to the ledge. 2. Straight up the wall above with 3 carrots.

FA: Mark Gommers & Michael Dielenberg, 1991

Excellent varied climbing up the E (seaward) face of the Pinnacle. Mark Gommers removed a thorn tree from this after it split a rope. Star a few m L of RTS 1. The face past a carrot to the diagonal crackline L. Follow the crackline and then R to a thin seam. Up this to the the overhang, clip the bolt above and traverse 2m R. Straight up the wall past 3 more carrots. 2. As for RTS.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

Ugly. Star as for M then L to the chimney and up this to the top.

FA: Peter Kingsbury & Raymond Stuart, 1994

Powerfully sustained up a threatening line. Starts on the L arete of the chimney. Up this, L onto the face past 3FHs and up the stepped crackline. DRB at the top.

FA: Mark Gommers, 1994

FFA: Nathan Bolton & Dan Radford, 2005

Start up the roots to the tight chimney then an easy but dangerous exit.

FA: Allan McGill, Zoltan Swain & Matthew Swait, 1990

FA: Nathan Bolton / Dan Radford

This route gets morning tree shade. Great crack climbing 2m L CTGPB. Climb to DBB on ledge then rap off to avoid mass off loose boulders above. Bring tapes or finish up WO.

FA: Aiden Forde & Scott Johnson, 1991

Hand and fist crack at far L end of ledge atop AB. Crack till it ends then traverse 2m L to continue with the 2nd pitch of SL

FA: Scott Johnson, Mark Gommers & Aiden Forde, 1991

Intimidating. A fine climb with a thoughtful and sequency crux. Climb up the crack to the first roof, which is ascended on the R and continue up through the second and third roofs to the chains.

FA: Nathan Bolton & Daniel Radford

2 pitches of intimidating climbing, all natural except for 1 FH. 1/ 22m 22. Starts 2m R of 'Step Lightly' up the easy crack to an off-width chimney (FH) which leads to a small cave with a big roof (crux). struggle through roof & up another chimney to belay ledge (try not to throw up on belayer in process). 2/ 18m 18. up obvious crack, then step L & follow seam up thin face enjoying the multitude of small wire placements. a small cam is nice for the top-out.

FA: Mark Gommers, Rik Wittkopp & Andrew Rule, 2001

Pull down on em. Delicate flake climbing. 1. Crux. Start just L of the arete, a long and interesting journey past 8BRs to a DBB. Switches to the RHS of the arete after the 8th bolt. 2. More of the same past 2BRs

FA: Scott Johnson & Mark Gommers, 1991

The 2nd pitch involves some nice climbing on a heavily featured face. 1. 20m 18 Start 6m L of SL. Climb the crack with plenty of gear through the small horizontal break with the Chockstone’s andnup to the large horizontal break. Traverse 2m R to a sloping ledge and the chains. The crack may contain dirt and sand. 2. 20m 23 Climb the steep face past 7FHs. Avoid the slopers and find the positive edges until a good pocket provides a rest. There is a DBB back from the edge and chains up to the L. The chains direct he abseil into a big tree.

FA: Nathan Bolton & Adam Hardaker, 2000

Climbs the obvious hanging arete L of DB Tricky moves to start followed by sustained climbing up the arete passing 5 FHs, take small wires for the top out.

FA: Mark Gommers & Rik Wittkopp, 2001

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 14 Aug 2014

Start at the arete a few M R of SP. climb the arete past a few FHs to reach the SP belay chains.

FFA: Adam Hardaker, Mark Gommers & Andrew Rule, 2001

1 18 10m
2 21 30m

Originally know as Mouth Full of Dirt. Starts at the obvious crack 2m Rnof NSG. 1. 10m 18 Up the steep and tricky crack to the ledge and belay chains. 2. 30m 21 Climb the technical face. A hard pull around the bulge to easier ground. Several FHs and some natural pro.

FFA: Mark Gommers & Adam Hardaker, 2001

As good as Tannin - 35m of continuos varied climbing. All natural gear to one carrot at the top. An easier variant to SR. Start as for SR. Climb SR up the wide flake-crack to the roof. Exit roof to L and continue up the crack L of the blank corner. When the crack ends, move R and finish as for SR.

FFA: Aiden Forde & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

FA: Aiden Forde & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

Set 1991

A classy variant of NSG. Takke it to the roof and the groove then move R onto the ledge above the roof. Up the clean thin corner joining NSG near the top. 1BR, maybe a direct is possible?

FA: Dan Ellis, Paul Slattery & Julie West, 1994

An interesting start fun. Starts 2m R of the arete at the end of the wall. UpRto gain the arete at the end of the wall. Up and R to gain the arete and continue up the widening crack past 3FHs to the ledge and large tree. You can rap as for NSG

FA: Dan Ellis, Paul Slattery & Julie West, 1994

Looks gross. 5m L of the previos route, exit at the old tree.

The crack opposite YLINYLI to ledge then L and up crack.

FA: Paul Slattery, Dan Ellis & Julie West, 1994

Starts at Sp belay chains. Step across the void and continue R to the chains of DB.

FFA: Mark Gommers, Adam Hardaker & Rik Wittkopp, 2001


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