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Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Do not park too close to the gate yor car may be moved

During the year the car club holds races on the mountian road. during this time road access is closed.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

-Take all rubbish home with you. -Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you


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Grade Route

Could be pretty evil. Rik says "not a classic by any stretch of the imagination". 45m directly below Happy Wanderer. To access, rap down in front of Avalon as for Jack's Beanstalk. Once down, go to LH side of the blank face to grassy crack. Follow crack until it almost intersects a LH diagonal crack. Traverse R and continue up this crack until gear fades. Traverse L, then R across exposed face to good gear, then up, hunting for gear as you go. Take lots of nuts and RP's.

FA: Rik Wittkopp (onsight) & Chris Noon, 2000

FA: Nathan Bolton, Jason Selman & Daniel Radford

Really good climbing avoiding the offwidth bits. Start up the RH crack, through the roof, and L across the O/W to the base of the stonking corner. Save a 1 1/2 Cam for here. Up to chains, taking care of the elkhorn.

FA: peter Kingsbury & Anthony Timms, 1994

Popular face climbing directly up the slabby wall to RSs final corner. FHs and some natural gear. There is a great looking finish outvL of the top corner to be done.

FA: Dan Ellis & John Pearson, 1995

Grunty. Take RS to the roof anf follow the wide crack through the bulde above, hugging the L arete lustfully.

FA: Peter Kingsbury & Raymond Stuart, 1994


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