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The Neutral Zone falls onto army land, enter at your own risk.

Access issues inherited from Mt Stuart

Do not park too close to the gate yor car may be moved

During the year the car club holds races on the mountian road. during this time road access is closed.

Ethic inherited from Mt Stuart

-Take all rubbish home with you. -Be aware of loose rocks and other climbers who could be below you


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Grade Route

On pinnacle direct across from Pleasure Unit start. Has a tree growing over the start. No anchor at top.

3m left of Unknown Name 1 just around arete. No anchor at top.

1)Same first pitch as Pleasure Unit 2)Follow vine on left, 1 FH to crack good ledge to make belay opposite the tree for Pleasure Unit's 2nd pitch 3)Straight up past 2 FH in stem-corner-slab over left side of nose to meet at Pleasure Unit anchor.

1 16
2 18

Pleasure Unit 65m 16 The first route done on the Main Faces. Again, this route is only included because you can rap down it - it's not particularly enjoyable. It's the obvious steep black V-corner in the prominent gully and can be seen from the highway. 1) 25m From the ground, climb the wide black crack (slightly tricky) to a tree and move L onto the slab. Pass the slab and into the crack again, belaying at a comfortable point. 2) 20m (crux) Continue up the V-corner which gets progressively harder to the large ledge with tree. 3) 20m Finish up the fat crack full of big chockstones. Mick Pezet 10/84.

To get to Pleasure Unit's top rap station from the Playground, instead of wandering down the L (looking seaward) Playground descent track, follow the vague walking track L for about 30m (look for white survey peg). Now scramble R down the fairly obvious gully for about 30m to the rap station at the top of Pleasure Unit. Unfortunately, this rap station setup is unsafe, so you must use the backup bolt provided (this means leaving gear at the top).

FA: Mick Pezet, 1984

"Mega classic featuring radical exposure and positions" - Scott Johnson's 1992 guide. Starts at the crack 3m R of PU (often vegetated). 1) 25m (18) Up the slabby crack (may be vegetated) to dirty ledge. Move R into the cleaner twin cracks and up to the sloping ledge and DBB(2 carrot bolts). 2) 25m (22) Head up the face with growing concern to the intimidating V-funnel (2 carrots). Take a few deep breaths and blast up this where some very clever moves will see you to a small ledge on the R to DBB (2FH with shackles). 3) 25m (23) Silly traverse directly R around the corner from the DBB to gain the base of the overhung corner. Climb this until it fades away to rest at the shark's fin then move R onto the perfect stone of the exposed arête (best positions ever!) passing 3 FH to the DBB (2FH).

FA: Scott Johnson & Aidan Ford, 1991

Starts 8m R of BMUS. The second pitch draws the stars. 1)30m 21. Up the ledgy face and over the roof to join the crack above. Follow the crack to the sloping ledge and DBB. 2)35m 23. Up the R side of the face with the DBB to gain the base of the green slab. Up the slab to the small tree and psyche up for the fabulous technical corner above which ends at a DBB. 3)15m 13. Easy climbing to the top where a small face leads to a DBB.

FA: Scott Johnson & Aidan Forde, 1990

FA: Nathan Bolton

A remarkable climb with an overhanging, under-cling traverse half way. Start 2m L of the base of FC. Move up through the vertical crack system to the over hang. Move L out of the crack into the under-cling traverse. Traverse 4m L then continue through easier climbing.

FA: Scott Johnson & Suzanne Dyer, 1991

This climb follows a well developed crack and drainage system marked by a distinct re-entrent in the cliff line about 20m R of the top of CM. Start from the large ledge at the base of the crack. Bush-wack a bit at the beginning, then move up the comfortable cracks to a balancy crux move, the the rest is cake. A nice escape for those who have trouble Pumping Iron.

FA: Scott Johnson, 1990

FA: Nathan Bolton

FA: Nathan Bolton & Mark Newell

FA: Nathan Bolton, Jason Selman, Cuan Petheram & Daniel Radford

Sustained slabbing. Starts at ground level about 10m R of Cosmic Messenger at base of seam with black FH at 5m. 1) 16m (18) Climbs the sustained slab and seam protected by bolt and many small wires to chains (not visible from ground). 2) 22m (crux) From chains, traverse 3m R and down into big corner crack (which is Into The Night - 17/18). Up this for 8m to ledge, then step R towards arête and climb slab protected by two FH's and small wires to chains. Double rope rap to the ground.

FA: Lee Skidmore, Jason Shaw, steve baskerville & Philippa Newton, 1998


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