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Access issues inherited from Townsville

Most areas are free to access to the public, some are closed for short times during the year due to car, bike and running races and other events such as flooding, bush fires or land slides after heavy rain. but they will open again soon after.

Ethic inherited from Townsville

Marking the rock at the start of the climbs used to be the norm, this is now frowned apon

Routes

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Grade Route
26 30m, 25 20m, 21 35m, 18 20m

Starts up the ramp in the bowl at the end of The Fairy Garden.

  1. (30m 26) up steep wall to rest. L across slab to ledge and DBB.

  2. (20m 25) Traverse L past 4 FH then up over bulge and ledge to natural belay.

  3. (35m 21) Move R out of cave past 3 FH on steep wall. Up through roof to slab and ledge. Finish up bottomless corner to ledge.

  4. (20m 18) Climb L on the nose passing a FH. From ledge, up steep featured rock to slab and natural belay at summit.

FFA: Chris Glastonbury (1, 3), Steven Ioannou (2 & 4), 2010

Starts about 10m right of the last bit of roof in the Hyper Bowl (the Wave). Up the awkward corner until it is possible to clip a FH and escape left onto slab (crux). Continue up slab passing a FH and a wire then move right to third and final FH. Climb around the bulge into the corner and up gully tending right to large ledge and trees.

FFA: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2007

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, Steve Ioannou & Chris Beric, 2013

Insidious crack 7m L of PITS. Start at left end of ledge, not that youd want to.

Wicked position on clean face high above The Fairy Garden. Starts on ledge at the top of Ascendancy P1. Or rap in from a ledge above Body Armour. Natural Anchor

FFA: Chris Glastonbury, 2012

Starts from the terrace above Escape to the Void and is the obvious huge corner between two arêtes.

  1. 15m 21 Straight up the sustained corner with bomber gear then traverse left to exposed belay ledge below a triangular roof.

  2. 22m 18 Climb slightly right of belay an up through a committing layback (exposure!) to easier ground. Continue up, staying close to the arête to large belay ledge with a fixed pin (on a block a few m from the edge, facing the gulley). To escape, walk along the ledge to an obvious easy corner and climb this to the top. Then scramble down to rap chains.

FFA: Steve Ioannou (1) & Chris Glastonbury (2), 2007

Start on small extruding block passed when climbing DBMP. Up jugs passing wires to large horn and a FH. Out past 2nd FH then over lip to final bolt (use 80cm sling). Up slab to summit. Do not place gear on slab and do not second this climb due to knife blade edge on lip.

FFA: Steve Ioannou, 2008

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 2005

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