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Access issues inherited from Castle Hill

No access issues

Ethic inherited from Castle Hill

Be careful of loose rock and of people walking on the trails below the climbs.

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A great fingerly slab. Up the slab L of the first 2 pitches of Vto DBB 5m L of V 2nd belay. Start 2m R of the chimney past 2 FH then L and up to a horizontal slot and natural gear. Up through rooflet and face past 3 more FHs to belay below a line of rusty carrots.

The blunt arête L of the 3rd pitch of V, route with the ugly brown carrots.

A 'Castle Hill' classic. A great climb to do in the afternoon. The route was rebolted in late 1998 to make it completely safe. Simply great climbing with excellent positions up the top.

Start: Starts a few metres down R of TS. If you can't find TS, walk past the bouldering wall, keeping an eye out for a wide chimney (landmark) up through the grass on your L. Continue past this for a few metres, keeping on the track until you hit the (overall) third railing on the track. Once here, punch up the hill through the grass for 10m (no track) to the base of the blunt arête of the large, slightly detached block that is the start of the climb. You'll know you're on track if you see a series of big, silver 90 degree FHs quite close together up the face.

  1. 20m (18) A tricky lead with some insecure moves. Easily to clip the first FH. Cruxy moves through to third FH. More FHs until you reach the crack where the climb eases. Chain belay behind the tree. 'Escape' off L (chains) is possible here, but keep climbing because the next pitches are better.

  2. 15m (16) From the DBB behind the tree, step up onto the cheat stone and L onto the thin face past first FH. Nice moves past some thin stuff with odd thank-you-God jug will lead you past FHs to the massive, exposed slab with fantastic views, easy moves. More FHs up the slab until the ledge and DBB. A great pitch. You can scramble off L here if needed.

  3. 30m (19) You'll need about 12 draws for this pitch. From the DBB, traverse R and up to clip the FH. Keep traversing R to clip another FH in a very photogenic position (some climbers choose to now traverse back and clean the first FH to reduce rope drag). Up and R past FHs to the corner. Sustained moves up the pocketed corner to the top and DRB can be found along with the chains 4m back from the edge.

FFA: Stuart davies, Jason Blake & John Blake, 1993

Starts about 7m R of V. Three black FHs then R to rings.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Phillipa Newton, 1998

Up past the bolts and L and up thesteepening slab to mantle ledge. Continue (crucial 2.5 cam) up and L past 4th FH to finish up the thin crack to the top of the 1st pitch of V.

FA: Lee Skidmore & Phillipa Newton, 1998


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