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Access issues inherited from Castle Hill

No access issues

Ethic inherited from Castle Hill

Be careful of loose rock and of people walking on the trails below the climbs.

Routes

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Grade Route

Apparently better than it looks. Star 3m L of GiT, a bouldery start with a thin, rusty bolt, then up the line of flared pockets. Take big cams.

Starts at the L hand side of the wall with the arch, at the big trail arrow painted on the rock. Watch out for a loose hold at the 2nd bolt. Up and R, back L a little at the top to chains. Better to rap than lower. 5FHs.

FA: Lee Skidmore, 1998

Really good and solid for the grade. Starts at the R hand end of the arch. A bouldery start then up and R to the roof. The nut on the bolt above the roof maybe loose. Diagonally L to the massive chains.

FA: Scott Bewley & Anthony Timms, 1997

Burly and a bit loose just like the dog himself. Up HAND to its 3 FH then up 1.5m R (#2 cam and small sling where there is a small plant) to a pocket and good small wires. A neat dynamic crux up R of these past the FHs on MC and finish at the rings

FA: Douglas Hockly, 1998

Start 4m R of HAND at the closed seam. Good holds lead up the face to a hard move at the overlap. Over this and steeply up the face above to the rings.

Set by Matt Brooks, Mar 2018

A fun undercling climb that tests your smear skills and endurance.

Start far right of obvious long, large, horizontal crack. Work your way up and onto the face of the cliff. Smear and undercling your way to the left until you hit a small cave section. Tricky section after a undercling pump, but look for holds and you will be rewarded.

Finish by climbing down at the end of the underclinging crack

Reverse works to but it has a tricky start.

Gets full sun from 8am - 2pm

FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 21 Jun 2011

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