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The Upper Terrace

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Description

Home to many classics, the Upper Terrace features 3 and 4 star problems of numerous styles, heights and grades. Catches lots of breeze and dries quickly. The rock quality is superb with many classics in the V5+ range.

The Eyeball Boulder is easy to identify, which then allows you to identify the other boulders.

Access issues inherited from Harveys Marbles

Stay well away from the rifle shooting range (http://www.tmrc.com.au/). This is private property and potentially extremely dangerous.

Ethic inherited from Harveys Marbles

Please respect the local ethics and at all times, look after the environment. This means definitely no chipping, use your wire brush sparingly and only on the holds that you are using, leave the trees alone (it is often possible to pull them aside temporarily if they are covering a problem), and of course take out everything that arrived with you. The rocks are covered in beautiful paint-like lichen that for the most part doesn't interfere with climbing. If you need to clean lichen from a problem, remove only what is essential, and preferably as little as possible.

Harvey's has innumerable very high lines, such as Spenser's "Deliverance" and "Walk The Line". Despite this, Harvey's Marbles remains a bouldering crag and therefore no bolting is allowed. Top roping is fine if you want to do something that is too high for you to boulder.

This is private land and we are very lucky to have permission to access it please follow some simple rules:

  • No bolts
  • Keep to the walking trails where possible.
  • Take all rubbish with you.
  • Protect the environment; try to leave as much of the moss growing on the rocks as possible.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Starts slightly on the right hand side under the obvious overhanging prow. Jump up to the lip to a sloper and mantle to the scoop. See also "Mike Delta X-Ray Variant"

FA: Aaron Jones, 2000

Same as "Mike Delta X-Ray" but go out left to the chunky edge before mantling.

FA: Aaron Jones

Start as for the above problem but go up and L, via some fantastic slopers, and mantling via jugs for LH. Fun.

FA: SB, 2003

Weird. Starts just R of "Mike Delta X-Ray" with LH on obvious sidepull and RH on obvious hold. Up and out R, starting off a small block or stacked mats to reach LH sidepull.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002

Middle of the wall just R of obvious hold.

FA: MS, 2001

Short wall just L of the above problem. Starts off a small edge and then up via some slopey dishes. Desperate.

FA: MS, 2002

2m L of Delicate Connection. Up, starting off high LH slopey pocket and undercling for RH. Don't move R to arête - if you do, you're doing "Collateral Damage Variant" - rather go straight up to a precise deadpoint then a desperate finish.

FA: MS, 2001

Same start as "Collateral Damage" but move R to arête rather then going straight up.

Links "Elegance" start into the finger crack to finish.

FA: Adrian Bautze Geue, 2001

The obvious arête starting from ground level and going up on either side, managing to pack in quite a few interesting and fun moves for such a short little section of rock. A highball boulder problem; not a beginner problem because of the height and landing.

FA: Jason Shaw, 2000

Desperate and at times awkward sit start to Elegance. Good.

FA: SB, 2004

Starts R of the small boulder with crimps. Up to jug on top. Short.

FA: SB, 2000

Traverse L from just L of the "Go Go Gadget Gaston" to finish up as for "Jason's Problem". Good warm up.

FA: MS

Variant of Unnamed V0. Can be started sitting off block down and L off obvious edge.

FA: MS

Balancy face climbing starting at the obvious curving flake. Up and then right to top out.

See also the variant "Jason's Problem Low Start"

FA: Jason Shaw, 2000

The low start to "Jason's Problem". Start low and crouched.

FFA: SB

The wall just around L of the prow, and just R of the obvious curving flake. Start with high LH sidepull, and high and tiny RH crimp. Stack mats if you're shortish.

FA: SB, 2003

A mega classic! Start just R of "Skippy With a Smile" with your LH on a high pinch and RH on a terrible slopey scoop. Up via small holds and two hard moves.

FA: SB, 2004

A classic slab problem. High slab on LH end of wall with obvious flake foothold. Up on series of sidepulls.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2000

High slab in the middle of the wall with another series of sidepulls. Hard.

FA: MS, 2001

Slab just R of above problem identified by prominent triangular edge for your feet.

FA: MS, 2003

Mantle short face on vague arete.

FA: MS, 2001

After somehow managing this awkward mantle the problem lives up to its name as you somehow figure out a way to get down. For extra value, mantle the jugs without moving up arete.

FA: Jason Shaw, 2000

Sit start off the block to above problem, using tiny RH sidepull and LH pinch.

FA: SB, 2004

Start standing with the jugs on the above problem. Follow the arête up and R to the obvious jug and mantle. Extension continuing this line all the way would be good but scary.

FA: Nick Larsen

Classic line just L of Best In Tension, sharing some holds.

FA: Spenser, 2011

The steep highball arête on the top L side of the boulder. Up via underclings and slopers to a crux rockover at about half height.

FA: Madoc Sheehan, 2002

Just R of Best in Show. Start off bad RH sidepull and high LH edge. Up to obvious cluster of small edges then move L and up.

FA: MS, 2002

Sit start on tiny boulder. Grizzly rock!

FA: SB, 2006

LHV of Imported Products. Using a high LH hold, and moving up into the top of Imported Products.

FA: SB, 2004

Starts in the middle of the steep wall off the in-cut edges with a lack of feet. Big moves to the top. Sharp but good.

FA: Matt Zimmerman, 2001

RHV of Imported Products. Start with your LH on the obvious sharp incut. Paste a foot and jump start up and R, then a slopey finish coming back L.

FA: SB, 2004

Start with the good RH sidepull about 3m R of Battle Of The Bulge, pretty much in front of the tree. Swing start, (one foot on the wall and jump) to a good LH hold. Up and L to the good holds above Imported Products.

FA: SB, 2003

A variant to Sleight of Hand. Instead of moving out L mantle straight up. Similar difficulty.

FA: MS, 2003

The other side of this boulder from Sleight of Hand is a super hard, steep project - go for it!

Face with undercut start 2m L of "The Incred-eye-ball mantle". Start below vague scoop with RH on tiny positive 'ear' and up on thin holds.

FA: SB, 2002

Mantles the LH side of the eyeball. Move up the arete till you get your LH on the good crimp, and then a hard move moving L onto the slab.

FA: Rob Saunders, 2002

Mantle out of the middle or R of the scoop, starting from ground level on L arete, or alternatively making a launch for the lip. Classic. Main hold on lip broke March 2019 and grade is probably more in the V7 range now.

FA: MS, 2001

Slap your way up this unfortunately sharp hanging flake. Starts off the massive fallen slab of rock.

FA: Jason Shaw, 2000

The face 2m R of Jungle Fever, and just L of arete. Start with really high edge for RH and 2 finger scoop for LH. Up trending L.

FA: SB, 2004

The slab 6m L of Jostling.

FFA: Lee Cujes

Cool prow, but watch the tree and the landing.

FA: Lee Cujes, 2006

High, thin and delicate with a bad landing. Starting just L of the block and just R of the thin dead tree. Move up and slightly L, then precariously to the top. Scary.

FA: MS, 2002

You can traverse the lip of this boulder in either direction for a nice warm up.

Starts with the flake on the LH end of the boulder. Great steep move to jug on lip, then mantle.

FA: SB, 2000

The low start to The Testicle Mantle. Done with RH on edge and low LH pinch.

FA: SB

1.5m R. Start crouched off small RH sidepull and incut tooth for LH, slap holds on lip and launch for the massive flake back a bit, (or mantle). See also Groin Strain Variant.

FA: SB, 2000

Variant to Groin Strain. If you start with the holds at the lip.

Sit start with LH undercling, and RH crimp. One move to top and mantle.

FA: MS, 2003

A multitude of variants are possible on this wall. Good warm up wall.

Very easy. Up on nice nice holds to jugs at top. Starts R of the loose flake.

2m R of 'A'. Good holds lead to an easy mantle. First done in the rain.

FA: MS, 2000

Wall between 'A', "Slippery When Wet" and "Cicada Cravings", aiming for good edges.

FA: MS, 2002

Link "Slippery When Wet" into "Cicada cravings", staying on the bottom half of the wall while you traverse.

FA: SB, 2004

2m R of "Slippery When Wet". Fun slab problem up featured wall with almost perfect rock and weird nubbins. Through small tree branch at top.

FA: SB, 2000

1m R of "Cicada Cravings". Nice short cruisy problem.

FA: John Baskerville, 2000

Nice problem up the vague arete in the middle of the next boulder, moving L to flake then up. See also "Frayed Sit Start".

FA: SB, 2000

The sit start to Frayed.

The slab 0.5m L of Frayed.

Wall just R of Frayed.

FA: MS, 2001

Variant to Balded. Start with the Frayed Sit Start.

Excellent sit start on obvious flake.

FA: MS, 2000

Wall just L of flake with hard top out.

FA: MS, 2000

Nice slab with small pockets and edges.

FA: MS, 2000

Just L of arete.

FA: MS, 2000

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Activity

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