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1 18 20m
2 16 20m
3 19 30m

description

A 'Castle Hill' classic. A great climb to do in the afternoon. The route was rebolted in late 1998 and again in 2017 to make it completely safe. Simply great climbing with excellent positions up the top.

Start: Starts a few metres down R of TS. If you can't find TS, walk past the bouldering wall, keeping an eye out for a wide chimney (landmark) up through the grass on your L. Continue past this for a few metres, keeping on the track until you hit the (overall) third railing on the track. Once here, punch up the hill through the grass for 10m (no track) to the base of the blunt arête of the large, slightly detached block that is the start of the climb. You'll know you're on track if you see a series of big, silver 90 degree FHs quite close together up the face.

  1. 20m (18) A tricky lead with some insecure moves. Easily to clip the first FH. Cruxy moves through to third FH. More FHs until you reach the crack where the climb eases. Chain belay behind the tree. 'Escape' off L (chains) is possible here, but keep climbing because the next pitches are better.

  2. 20m (16) From the DBB behind the tree, step up onto the cheat stone and L onto the thin face past first FH. Nice moves past some thin stuff with odd thank-you-God jug will lead you past FHs to the massive, exposed slab with fantastic views, easy moves. More FHs up the slab until the ledge and DBB. A great pitch. You can scramble off L here if needed.

  3. 30m (19) Step R using the slightly loose block to clip the first FH above the belay. Now instead of traversing R for the Vision Original Finish, continue straight up through the crux at midway following the bolts to the DBB.

You'll need 12 quickdraws + something for the DBB the anchor.

Speed Record

The current speed ascent record is held by Jarrah Brand-Adams & Christopher Glastonbury with a time of 7 minutes 15 seconds.

Glen Hayford & Sam Lavender 17:54.

18-12-19 Jarrah Brand-Adams & Christopher Glastonbury 10:45.

22-12-19 J B-A & CG 8:06.

22-12-19 J B-A & CG 7:15.

© (Trent)

Route history

Nov 1993First free ascent: Stuart Davies, Jason Blake & John Blake

Warnings

21 Nov 2020 Fixed Gear: Nut loose Resolved

Location

Lat/Lon: -19.25839, 146.80594

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

18,16,19 Assigned grade
19 ACA Route Register
19 The Original Queensland Climbing Reference
18/19 A Climber's Guide to Townsville and Magnetic Island
18,16,19
19
19 [18 - 19] grAId

ethic

Be careful of loose rock and of people walking on the trails below the climbs.

inherited from Castle Hill

Seasonality

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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 68 from 54 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 26
Flash 1
Red point 7
Tick 29
Top rope 4
Attempt 7
Target 1

Comment keywords

runout magic lovely amazing pleasant classic enjoyable awesome great good stoked fun super nice difficult hard solid crux bail epic slabby technical face rest traverse

Activity

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