Another classic on Castle Hill. "Saint" for obvious reasons, and "Sinner" because of the dynabolts. It needs to be rebolted.
There are four rap stations on the route and about 50 bolts in total. You'll need about 14 quickdraws and five hangers.
Starting on the far R of Hardman Wall uphill and R of the spiky pandanus tree; the direct start starts to the L of the spiky tree and is a similar grade.
21 35m This pitch has 12 bolts and goes up some sustained territory with the crux above the 9th bolt. A real endurance-fest. Starting R of the tree, up to ledge, then L onto face and up following bolts.
18 25m Follow the bolts to zig R up the slab, and then zag back L to chains.
22 27m (crux) A wandery crux pitch. Up and R out the heavily bolted traverse, up, then an unlikely looking traverse L at the flake. Up the groove and R around final roof to chains.
15 37m Up the crack (2 FH's) and find the line of hangerless bolts up the wall L of the major groove L of the Saint.
|May 1998||First ascent:
Joe Kippax & Anthony Timms|
Joe Kippax led all pitches
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