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Routes as trad in Frederick Peak

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Showing all 10 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Plagiarism Wall
16 The Nose

FFA: Steve Ioannou, Chris Glastonbury & Chris Beric, 2013

Trad 18m
Central
14 King Frederick
1 14 45m
2 11 40m
3 11 35m
4 13 40m

This 4 pitch climbs a total of 160m, starting 20m uphill from the large fig tree and following the vague arête on the right side of the eastern gully.

  1. 45m 14 Up the green/black slab over ledges to gain obvious corner then through some vegetation to a large ledge just below cave. Climb around the R side of this and up onto slab. Belay below obvious cracks.

  2. 40m 11 Up the cracks to a sloping ledge and continue up and over onto another ledge. Move up for another few metres then traverse L for 10m to belay on the edge of a large ledge with a big buttress. The 3rd pitch starts at the back of this ledge to the L of the prominent buttress.

  3. 35m 11 From the ledge, head up the black slab to the L of the gully. Pass a series of ledges and trees to reach a large ledge and tree for belay below a chimney.

  4. 40m 13 Head directly up the chimney with good wires and then break R onto the slab. Mantle the block to the L of the group of trees and then follow the gully to reach a large tree on the R.

Steve Ioannou (1,3), Chris Glastonbury (2,4) 16.12.06

FFA: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2006

Trad 160m, 4
12 Milk Run

FFA: Steve Ioannou & Chris Glastonbury, 2013

Trad 60m
20 Betrayed
1 20 25m
2 18 18m
3 6 8m
4 15 25m
5 13 15m

Walk 100m past the first gully and scramble 10m up to a smaller ledge with tree. Start up the steep black rock on the L of the ledge, 2m L of the tree.

  1. 25m 20 Commit to pulling through 4m of steep rock (crux) mostly on slopers and then find dirty, but easy climbing up corner/gully passing a large chockstone to reach ledge with a tree belay.

  2. 18m 18 Step out L past the tree onto the slab and then take the crack up the middle of the wall. Interesting moves to reach a hanging belay directly L of the end of the horrible vegetation.

  3. 8m 6 From the hanging belay traverse R through all the thick scrub to mantle up on a tree and reach a ledge w/ tree belay.

  4. 25m 15 Up the corner for a few metres and then carefully walk L for about 10m over a tree to gain another corner. Straight up avoiding loose rock to ledge and tree.

  5. 15m 13 Up the corner on great gear then L and up to large ledge and belay.

Originally finished here but more suitable to reach summit via last two pitches of KF.

Steve Ioannou (1,3), Chris Glastonbury (2,4), Chris Beric (5) 1.2.06

FFA: Steve Ioannou, Chris Glastonbury & Chris Beric, 2006

Trad 91m, 5
20 Agenda Suicide
1 18 30m
2 16 15m
3 20 20m
4 15 30m

This 95m multipitch starts 5m right of Betrayed on the ledge with tree.

  1. 30m 18 Follow ramp to the bottom of the corner crack. Crank up above the corner and trend L towards the blunt arête. Easy climbing up the slab, move diagonally R to reach a ledge with tree.

  2. 15m 16 Climb easily up over a few blocks to gain an obvious corner. Break out R of the corner before it gets too steep to belay on a small sloping ledge below a horizontal crack.

  3. 20m 20 Climb directly up the centre of the wall and follow the holds up the L hand side of the shallow corner (crux). Pass a few trees, trending R to reach a shady ledge.

  4. 30m 15 Cross the gully just around the arête of the wall standing above the shady ledge. Climb straight up and over the horizontal break and further up the blunt arête. Follow the path of least resistance. This pitch merges with the 4th pitch of Cooked. Tree belay.

  5. Either climb the 5th pitch of Cooked (30m 17) or scramble up the gully on the R to reach the summit.

Chris Glastonbury (1,3,5), Steve Ioannou (2,4) 2.2.08

FFA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2008

Trad 95m, 4
17 Cooked
1 8 42m
2 4 15m
3 16 43m
4 16 20m
5 17 30m

This multipitch starts just after the eastern gully at the west corner of the large detached block.

  1. 42m 8 Climb up the large corner to belay below obvious slabby corner.

  2. 15m 4 From the ledge, move up and L onto the small buttress. Continue up obvious cracks to belay at large ledge with trees.

  3. 43m 16 From the ledge, climb up the gully L of the tree to reach the ledge below the steep wall. Up the wall for about 10m to a small ledge.

  4. 20m 16 Traverse L of the belay into exposed territory. Move up past a horizontal crack and some vegetation to a large ledge.

  5. 30m 17 At the back of the large ledge, follow the black streak up the steep wall and move L to easier ground on green rock. Tree belay.

Chris Glastonbury (1,3,5), Steve Ioannou (2,4) 3.3.07

FFA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2007

Trad 150m, 5
The Worlds End
25 Celestia

FA: Chris Glastonbury & Steve Ioannou, 2013

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Steven Ioannou, 26 Jul 2018

Trad 55m
20 Magrathea
1 15 30m
2 20 20m

FFA: Chris Glastonbury (1) & Steve Ioannou (2), 2013

Trad 50m, 2
24 Whack Jobs and Wing Nuts Trad 35m
Neverland
23 You’ll Never, Never Know Trad 12m

Showing all 10 routes.

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