Site navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

Realistically this is the only rock face that offers some really worthwhile climbing. Quite good quality rock, interesting holds and a tall enough wall to allow for more than just 2 moves, it's the best you'll get in Mornington

Access issues inherited from Mornington

Best to head there at low tide.

Approach

Easiest to walk here from the dog beach opposite the royal hotel. walk around the left point until you find the narrow walk way between the cliff face and a boulder and there you are. Alternatively you can walk down some tracks near the bowls club.

Descent notes

when topped it's easiest to jump onto the boulder behind it

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Start with both feet in the white hole deep under the ledge and hands on the knife-like flakes. Work out from under the ledge and then up a series of jugs on the sea corner of the cliff.

FA: Philip Vaudrey

FFA: Philip Vaudrey, 20 Oct 2017

A slightly easier problem starting to the left of 'surprise surprise' with much more straightforward beta. still pretty cool.

FA: Fraser Gust, 10 Sep 2017

A really cool problem with kind of tricky beta. A standing start with hands on the sloper and the pinch. This is my favourite problem in mornington i think

FA: Fraser Gust, 9 Sep 2017

Start as for Surprise Surprise with feet on the lower ledge, left hand on the sloper and right hand pinch. Head straight up to a crimp above the sloper and another pinch out to the right before getting both hands on a wide central crimp just below the top. Left hand to a small pocket above that, then mantle to top out. Great boulder!

Set by Philip Vaudrey, 8 Oct 2017

A sit start for "Surprise surprise" " or "Straight Surprise" which begins with the right hand on the starting pinch and the left hand on a second pinchy hold just beneath and to the left. then moves easily into the actual problems. Doesn't add much difficulty to the problems.

FA: Fraser Gust, 10 Oct 2017

Link up parts from 'White Feet' and 'Well shit' and 'Straight Surprise'. Start as per 'White Feet', come out from under the ledge at 'Well Shit', make the super big obvious pocket on this climb, then traverse onto the beginning holds of Straight Surprise, then up Straight Surprise to finish.

a hold eliminate/alternate route for the Jewel. When coming out from underneath the roof, instead of moving up to the large pocket, stay lower and make a big move from the low ledge to the left hand starting hold of 'Surprise surprise'

A climb on the far side of the boulder your back faces when climbing crown jewel cliff. Start down in the crack with hands on the large ledge. Harder for the short

start with both hands on the obvious ledge. move right hand to the reddish pinch, then move left and top out awkwardly about midway along the boulder.

FA: Fraser Gust, 27 Oct 2017

A climb on the boulder your back faces while climbing crown jewel cliff. Starts on the slopey holds at chest height on the village in the boulder. Moves out right to the top

A sit start from the rock shelf underneath the boulder which adds a few tough moves. the crux then becomes sticking the normal starting heelhook.

A climb on the two overhanging faces near the storm water drain outlet. Start standing in the hole between the rocks at the base of the first boulder with right hand in the low pocket and left up high in the crack. move up this face and then move across onto the second boulder. move around the corner of this boulder and top out on the side closet to the drain. Pretty complex route but an interesting climb

Same start as stinky but instead of moving to the other boulder just move up and over the lip to the left on the first boulder. No using the arete until you've gained the top

A slightly harder start to "Stinky". start standing to the right of the first face with right hand on the low jug on the top arete and left hand on one of the pinchy juggy holds on the side of the face. Use the same starting foothold as stinky with the left foot Move left and up into the holds of the normal problem.

lots of different eliminate problems can be done on this face staring from either the central or right starting position. A good one involves eliminating the high right hand pocket from the problem which forces some cool moves.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Crown Jewel Cliff.