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Coopers Main Sector

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: <5 min
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 165

Seasonality

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Description

This is the longest sector and offers the most problems. Faces West so best in Winter. Beware of snakes any time of year!

What makes this particularly special is the lack of wide horizontal breaks often prevalent with Basalt.

Access issues inherited from Coopers

None as yet. Please don't make me regret making this spot public.

Coopers primarily consists of easier problems, but doesn’t make it is an ideal spot for beginners. Bouldering here isn’t the same as bouldering indoors!

Many of the landings are rough and sloping. The top outs are not always obvious. The problems are still shedding holds or require you to know how to pull correctly on loose rock.

Be mindful that Coopers is in one of the few remaining wildlife corridors in the area as Melbourne continues to spread outwards. As a result you will see many Kangaroos and other wildlife including Echidna’s. So leave your dog at home! Avoid trampling the native vegetation; though feel free to bring gardening gloves and remove weeds.

Keep the area clean! Take away rubbish even if not yours. Brush chalk off the holds and if you need to use tick marks, wash them off before you move on to the next problem.

Respect the location. If you can I may consider making some of my other local areas public.

Descent notes

There are three main descent options.

50m South of * is a well trafficked animal pad.

40m North of * is a steep stepped gully conveniently located in the middle of the sector.

Northern end of the sector is another well trafficked animal pad.

History

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Like most areas may have been discovered previously. Martin Lama in his decades long search around Melbourne found this edge in 2006. He enlisted the help of Chris Smolka to clean and develop the cliff systematically ticking nearly all the lines. The main sector also saw a visit or two by Phil Neville who cleaned up a couple of the remaining harder lines.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The microbrewery is located half way down the Southern descent. Hardest part climbing the problems in this mini cave is keeping off the ground. Recommend only using a tarp as it allows additional clearance!

SDS cramped in the back of the cave on double underclings.

SDS as for Bonehead Half Wit Hero. Juggy traverse finishing around the left arete.

SDS on the good low rail. Straight out and up with a long move at the lip to the top. Wall right of the central crack is off route.

Bad landing - stacked pads recommended. Crux is manteling the capstone

SDS Corner

SDS sidepull left and low incut right. undercling, crimps, mono and duo doigts to the top

Low start right side of the arete (has been climbed from a SDS but doesn't add value). Up and L around arete and then throw for the top

FA: , 2006

Front undercut blank face

SDS Wide crack

FA: , 2006

SDS Undercut rounded arete immediately L of the crack

FA: , 2006

SDS The thin face starting down to the right. Sidepull to pockets. Shelf and crack to the left is out.

FA: , 2006

SDS Crack from the shelf.

SDS Easy corner crack

SDS Short face left of the crack

SDS Arete starting on the shelf

Short slabby face left of the arete.

SDS Crack

SDS sidepull left hand and pocket for the right. Powerful start to break then pockets above.

SDS Edges to the horizontal and short crack

SDS Easy wide crack

SDS Contrived sit start low flat shelf for the left and right pocket pinch just above. Foot shelf below the low flat shelf is divided into three. Don't use the largest right portion.

Thin seam up the vague corner above with mostly monos if sausages for fingers. V1 from a stand.

SDS Pockets and edges to vague arete. Crack and seam either side are out.

SDS short corner crack

SDS Face via pockets and horizontal. Crack and arete are out.

SDS Right side of the arete.

SDS Left side of the arete.

Face excluding the arete and crack to the left.

SDS Wide crack

SDS Jug long span to pockets.

Located on the separate block just below the main walls. Takes the right side of the face. SDS crimp for the L, Right arete for the R. Only rear section of the pedestal base for the feet.

SDS left side of the face. Very short pull on problem as no pedestal for the feet.

Lip traverse with the pedestal off route.

SDS matched on the jug. Traverse the lip all the way till at the slab on the opposite side of the block.

SDS Crack

SDS Shelf start to pockets

SDS Easy wide crack

SDS thin pocketed face.

SDS Face immediately right of the thin crack, Thin seam at the top.

SDS Thin crack.

SDS Corner crack

SDS Arete

Technical face via undercling

SDS Crack.

SDS The shallow arete without needing the foot shelf to start.

SDS using the shelf to start. Direct up the face via slots and high sloping break eliminating the crack and arete either side.

Thin cracks join to finish wide cleft. Has been done as a SDS but adds no value.

Vague arete to flake with foot shelf to start.

Rounded arete with hands starting in the break, eliminating the ledge and blocky base for the feet.

SDS on the ledge without using the shelf below the seam for feet. Up the closed seam corner.

SDS off the ledge. Short steep arete via break. The good slot halfway up the corner of Sprecher Shakparo is off route. If you use it, subtract a couple of grades.

SDS on the ledge. Awkward pull to the break then up the short corner above. Minus the first move starting in the break is a pleasant V0.

SDS Short left arete starting in the break

Short undercut slab just left of the central descent.

Start as for "Leffe Bruin" and traverse left on good holds. Finish as per "Butty Bach"

FA: Jamie Ung

SDS Right leading seam

SDS under scooped arete. Follow the crack right and up.

SDS under scooped arete. Take on the arete direct without the right crack

SDS below left edge of the scopped arete. Up via the shelf and pockets

SDS under low roof with hands just above the lip. Tricky mantel over the lip

SDS left arete

SDS middle of the face via shelves

SDS Corner crack

SDS Delicate face finishing over the top block direct

SDS Corner crack

SDS Arete via the low shelf

SDS Face left of the arete

SDS crack

SDS Awkward start. Up the vague arete. Really nice stand start at V0+

SDS Left leaning crack.

SDS Short double arete

SDS Short crack and face.

Clean slab immediately left of the corner

SDS undercut arete. Starting with left crimp sidepull and right low edge. Powerful long pull to pockets. The big sidepull on Moretti Doppio Malto and blocky footshelf is off route.

SDS Face right of the corner.

SDS Right crack

SDS Left crack

Front of the steep arete with deceptively tough topout.

Right edge of the wide crack

Easy under vertical face.

Y crack

SBS Right on the flake and left very low undercling slot either side of the arete. Long move up left to a good sidepull then up via pockets and edges. Large jug on the left face is out.

Face.left of the arete with poor feet to start. Has been done from a SDS but better without.

Corner crack

SDS Face right of the arete to flake

SDS arete. Eliminate the shelf to the left

SDS in the cave. Up the right side including the block underneath for feet. Anything right of the arete is out.

FA: Phil Neville, 2009

SDS under roof on some good crimps. Straight out(block underneath is out for hands and feet) via slopes and crimps. Anything right of the arete is out too.

FA: Phil Neville, 2009

SDS as for Stout heading up left

FA: Phil Neville, 2009

Easiest if circuitous route to the top of the right side of the cave. SDS follow Pale to the shelf. Cross over right to a positive side pull, then continue via the large edge to finish up the right arete.

SDS on the left. Traversing right and finishing up Stout.

FA: Phil Neville, 2009

SDS as for Sparkling then go straight up and finish as for Pale.

SDS Rounded arete veering slightly right avoiding the large jug in the middle of the face.

SDS as per Waterloo Dark but straight up using the large jug

SDS Steep arete starting with hands in the low horizontal.

SDS The wide corner crack

SDS Undercut arete from the shelf

SDS arete from the low wide break. Edge on the left to square side pull pinch for the right. Horizontal the face above without the crack.

SDS from the low wide break. Edges up the overhanging face to the horizontal and pocketed face above

Koningshoeven Dubbel to the horizontal. Then left across this to the left arete and up this. Really just an extended start to Abita Light, but is a much better way to climb that problem.

SDS on the shelf. Bump to the horizontal and arete above

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