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Coopers Northeast Sector

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 5-10 min
  • Photos: 1

Description

The Northeast sector comprises of a number of blocks on a steep slope. This makes for some challenging landings and unfortunately the farmer previously used this outcrop as a tip!

If anywhere else around town it would still be a great find as there are some good lines. Here though it is overshadowed by the Northern and Main sectors.

Due to the aspect the outcrop sees little winter sun, so the rock and surrounds can be very wet even if it hasn't rained for days!

Access issues inherited from Coopers

None as yet. Please don't make me regret making this spot public.

Coopers primarily consists of easier problems, but doesn’t make it is an ideal spot for beginners. Bouldering here isn’t the same as bouldering indoors!

Many of the landings are rough and sloping. The top outs are not always obvious. The problems are still shedding holds or require you to know how to pull correctly on loose rock.

Be mindful that Coopers is in one of the few remaining wildlife corridors in the area as Melbourne continues to spread outwards. As a result you will see many Kangaroos and other wildlife including Echidna’s. So leave your dog at home! Avoid trampling the native vegetation; though feel free to bring gardening gloves and remove weeds.

Keep the area clean! Take away rubbish even if not yours. Brush chalk off the holds and if you need to use tick marks, wash them off before you move on to the next problem.

Respect the location. If you can I may consider making some of my other local areas public.

Approach

If the creek is low it is possible to rockhop across the creek at the sectors Southern end. Otherwise park at the Main sector carpark and walk NW ~10 minutes.

Descent notes

A number of breaks in the edge allow for an easy descent.

History

View historical timeline

Developed during the winter of 2020.

Routes

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Grade Route

Rounded arete. BL

Positive holds. Sloping landing

BL. Right arete. Could be easier, just feels hard as the landing drops away.

BL. Front face past the horizontal.

BL. SDS crack

BL. SDS face just left of the crack to a tough mantel.

BL. SDS up and slightly left to an easier mantel. Eliminate the foot shelf down left at the start.

BL. SDS Leaning blocky crack onto the sloping shelf.

BL right side of the arete.

SDS Left side of the arete above a small ledge eliminating the seam to the left.

SDS Leaning corner.

SDS right side of the arete

BL SDS as for CNEB4 moving up and right topping out above the block.

SDS right side of the arete to break then pockets. Shelf of CNEB5 down left of the twin pockets is off route.

SDS scoop.

Vague arete up the front face of the freestanding block.

SDS starting on the ground between the blocks either side and up via the flake and crimps above.

Takes the right arete of the top block.

Takes the nose of the top block direct.

Face over the top block direct

SDS front of short bulge.

Blocky face Karl climbed in 2019

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