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Lysterfield Boulders

  • Grade context: AU
  • Approach time: 30-40 min
  • Photos: 42
  • Ascents: 52
19

Seasonality

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Summary

Scattered granite boulders through extensive bushland east of Melbourne.

Description

Lysterfield has an extensive network of paths, tracks and MTB trails amongst which lie a scattering of granite blocks.

Approach

The problems described are in the Southern end of the park scattered widely through the bush in various locations. The best boulders lie just north of Trig Hill. Tracks (both walking and MTB) lead to the top of this stunning look out. Once there, walk north to find a selectively cleared track through the boneseed that leads easily to the large MP boulder. Look closely and you'll find the path. There are a number of satellite boulders around the main MP boulder (named for the initials carved on top and home to Tipping Point).

Ethic

PLEASE REFRAIN FROM PLACING ANY BOLTS ON ANY OF THE BOULDERS IN LYSTERFIELD PARK. ALL LONGER ROUTES AND HIGHBALLS ARE TOPROPEABLE WITHOUT RESORTING TO FIXED ANCHORS WITH A LITTLE INGENUITY. ABSOLUTELY NO BOLTS FOR RUNNERS. Keep to designated tracks, all plants, animals, other natural features and cultural sites are protected and must not be disturbed or removed. There is no rubbish collection inside the park, please take all your rubbish home with you for recycling and disposal. Dogs and other pets are not permitted in the park. Feeding wild life is bad for their health. It is an offence to feed or leave food where it is accessible to wildlife. Penalties apply. Loud noise can disturb wildlife. Please respect the local wildlife and keep noise to a minimum.

Routes

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Slabby flakey fingery long left edge of boulder above MP boulder.

FA: Karl Bromelow, Apr 2019

awkwardly sit start holding crimp in scoop make afew moves before fun mantal

FA: Aswan Shankara, 31 May

Short left arete on right of small cracked alcove at the back of LO boulder.

FA: Karl Bromelow, 10 Jun 2019

In the small cracked alcove behind the LO boulder from a sit start climb the prominent crack without recourse to side walls. Tricky.

FA: Karl Bromelow, May 2019

Short slab to mantel on the back side of the LO boulder.

FA: Karl Bromelow, May 2019

sit start on lowest good flat rail traverse right around the corner then crux to gain the arate follow to the top.

a great elminate is to not use the lower block on the right after traversing which makes it more like v6

FA: Aswan Shankara, 31 May

On the north side of the LO boulder is a classic undercut hand jam crack. Climb it.

FA: Karl Bromelow, Apr 2019

The left arete of the subsidiary boulder to the left of Finished Crack. Start at the large undercut flake and head straight up via smears and crimps.

FA: Karl Bromelow, May 2019

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 10 Jun 2019

Best climb here abouts on the north face of the MP boulder. Layback or jam the left side of the large flake leaning against the best looking boulder for miles around until perched on top. Lean out right and somehow gain the thin crack that splits the big boulder, commit to moving irreversibly right and scuttle to the top. Brilliant! Wires protect if you can place them! Or go a head, pile up the mats and highball it. Yikes! JUST DON'T ANONYMOUSLY BOLT IT PLEASE.

FA: Karl Bromelow & Andrew Johnson, 14 May 2019

The starting crack of Tipping Point is followed by a step onto the slab above and a scamper to the top. Don't slip!

FA: 10 Jul 2019

On the east side of the MP boulder climb the scoop that leads diagonally up from right to left above the bramble bed.

FA: Karl Bromelow, May 2019

Straight pull up the middle of the short boulder behind and uphill from the MP boulder descent.

FA: Karl Bromelow, 10 Jul 2019

A sit start left to right traverse of the highly featured solitary boulder. "Rising Slowly". Mantle over the lip.

Right arete in the abyss from a sit down start avoiding leaning back on the opposing wall.

FA: Kai Seth Robertson, 8 Jul 2019

The barely worth the walk square arete in the little quarry down the Stonemason's Track.

FA: Karl Bromelow, 20 May 2019

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Routes

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The obvious overhead mantel and high slab above.

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