Routes in Melbourne and Surrounds for selected grade

Blue holds

Orange holds

Pink(?) holds

Green holds

Blue holds

Orange holds

Panel 3 from right

Red holds

Includes purple system hold.

Traverse the wall in either direction only using the bottom 5 blocks #traverse

Stand start using obvious crimp jugs. Dyno to the top of the bluestone bricks and top out over onto High st. Is probably harder than a 5 if your under 6ft.

Start at the missing block that looks like the number 9 as formed by the missing area. Traverse left using only the drill holes from the plug and feathers masonry technique, many of which are very small (5cm) then climb up to the bricks at the same ending point as the Bridge street masonry traverse.

Start at the missing 9 block then traverse right until you get both feet on the next missing block. Only use the masonry drill holes for the hands and any feet. Next project is to extend it to the following missing block (by linking up with the route Sort yourself out) but I couldn't work it out.

This is the reverse of the route "bon voyage" start at the low missing block then traverse to the left until you get to the missing block that's about 1 meter up from the ground. This is an elimination that uses only the drill holes for the hands (all feet are in).

This climb starts where Bon Voyage finishes. Stand start matching head height chip. Traverse right only using the mansonary drill holes. Once you reach massive foot jug, top out over onto High St.

Traverse the bluestone wall using ONLY the top row of stones. Easier if you use both holds and cracks (~25), and harder if you use only the slopers on top (~27). Difficulty is about the same regardless of which direction you traverse.

SDS Solid Purpose to the jug then dyno straight for the top.

SDS Face right of Solid Purpose. Big loose block wedge fallen out since climbed so grade uncertain now.

Stand start middle of the overhung wall, follow thin crimps and feet with good body tension, finish by touching the wall light.

Hard crimping up RHS of boulder to horizontal seam, then up.

Right hand arete of main wall. Bouldery start on edges, up to hanging flake. 1 carrot for belay above on slab.

Very thin line up middle of orange wall, brushing past the tree after mid-height. 2 FH.

2m right of Big Deal, up past the diagonal seams on techo crimps and a toothy mono.

Been a while; but traverse the lip to join the hanging arete. Slightly contrived.

Best problem here; although sit start is a bit bunched for some.

Start on Double Gaston Classic and reach right across into the first rail for High step to Glory and finish up that

Classic diagonal seam. Highball. Pebbles are solid; but does not get easier towards the top.

On the boulder in front of Tips Layback; Sit start on the rail at the lowest point. Move up to R before you can mantle over. Better (and harder) than it looks.

Face R of the arete from sit start. Heads R to the middle of the wall, then finishes up L of the capping block.

Right wall of The Chuchu. Start as for Oona Poona past its first bolt. Instead of stepping left and up as for that climb, move up right to the dish and second bolt. From here continue diagonally up right past a third and onto the run out slab finishing as for The Shining (RB). Rebolted 2022

Worthwhile linkup connecting a couple of hard cruxes. Climb the first 2 bolts of The Razor's Edge, then traverse on good holds right until reaching the break below the crux bulge of Professor Everything, climbing its crux to the double ring bolt anchors.

Direct finish to Doctor of Everything. Start of for DOE follow it to the break (optional large Cam). Wrestle with a hard move or two leaving the break and up the steep slab to DBB.

Hard moves getting past the first bolt

Rebolted 2012

Tall, committing moves, but great sequence on actual holds.

Direct start to Redex up the slab past a bolt and through the bulge. Tricky move to reach the flake and 3rd bolt, then small crimps and bouldery moves to join Redex at the jug. Keep it together up the rest of Redex.

Up the wall 5m R of 'Crispin's Crispian'. Bolts replaced December 2021.

Stand start with one or both hands on jug on Straining Rail. Finish as per that problem A few variants all in the V4 range. V5 if extended left via the Hull.

Absurd. Climb Stiff Upper Lip then climb the right 21 to the big furry break at 6m. Traverse easily right past the 20/21 and the 15s to gain the V3 traverse line as far as the last 21. Up that to finish. Would take some proper rope friggery... so might as well solo it.

A hard sit start with low undercling and crimp. If you can reach the good holds near lip from sit start then V4. From lip a few slopy moves to gain rib immediately right of tree and up to finish on jugs.

SDS matched on the lumpy jug. Edge and dish on the shield and then array of equally poor features above.

Alternately can start on jugs of the Inbetweener, traversing left to NE prow start holds to link with Underground Resistance at V6 (dotted line - aka Short Circuit).

Sit start just left of OTFs flake using edges. Stand start goes at V3.

Outrageous finish to Migration finishing direct above the scoop using a series of thin layaways and edges. Jugs left of scoop are out. High proud and not a good place to let go. With lots of pads and spotters its still only 60/40 that you won't get hurt. Anything less would almost certainly be costly. Can be approached from Out Too Far Direct SS at same grade or DOTLD at V6.

Left face of the gully above Leaky Bucket with the huge chockstone.

Low start at the narrow letterbox slots below and just right of the chockstone with feet on half inch edges. Up the thin overhanging face keeping right of the hanging block till feet are level with it. When they are step left to finish standing on the chockstone.

Carefully down climb the opposite face to descend. First climbed a few decades ago - needs a brush!

Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26.

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 4th bolt on Bop till You Drop. Slightly down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick. A better alternative is to climb diagonally up and right from BTYDs 4th bolt (more sustained, same grade).

If that’s not pumpy or wandery enough get a long rope and try Megatrexate 26... as per original to bewitched, but continue right via Voodoo People to jugs then a couple of hard moves to gain the OK holds halfway through the hard bit of wolf variant (FH). Climb it into the scoop, then right to finish up Boogie RHV. Requires lots of clips and an equally deranged second.

Yet another linkup: Start on Bop, traverse into Satanic Verses like for Satan Said Dance, but instead of following Satanic Verses to the top, keep traversing up left from the largish sloper-sidepull ledge via Between Good And Evil, finishing on the Left Hand of Satan. Probably been done before? Nice homogeneous difficulty from start to top.

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder. Rebolted 2014.

Yep another LU, and it’s good with double crux. Start of Bop to third bolt (Bop crux), step right and diagonally up right (Metho crux) to high fourth bolt of Broomstick.

Let's leave it at 25 and see what people think... And try not to fall off at end of crux which could be bad for your ankles. Contrived but fun climbing up underside of arête of red wall left of limbo. Start at rightmost RB them left past 4 more to chain anchor. Stay below lip throughout. At last bolt avoid the temptation to follow holds up right and make a few more moves up overhung left face (crux) to mantle.

Up IO, clip 2nd FH with long sling then truck left below the lip as per MOW.

Start as for Boogers but instead of moving right muscle up through runnel gastoning slopes either side.

SDS Direct start to Big John avoiding the large starting holds of Tempest. Instead use a gaston edge for the left hand and thin sidepull with thumb catch for the right. The move is about 12 inches but still tougher and more technical than the other 4s down here. V5.

The half traverse...SDS in middle of wall. RH on vertical sidepull, LH on good crimp jug. Up to slot, match and across left into and up 8 Ball...very cool

Pointless eliminate. Sit start on tree with pinches and edges on rib of arete only (as per toddler marked topo!)

Start with LH on obvious jug, RH low on arete. Up arete then tough move or two to rock back onto face. Up.

Stand start in a elevator door move (two gastons). Think 'stick' and throw up to the jugs and top out.

The green block to the left is out.

Start standing up into the sloping scoop. Grab the tiny crimps and learn to fly.

Stand-start and reach a small positive edge using crimps. From here, better holds lead to a big move to a large blob, and then the top.

Stand-start. Climb directly up the scoop, and then head out left via a small crimp on the face. From here, finish direct.

Sit-start using the undercut with the right hand. Lean a long way leftwards to use a pinch on the diagonal crack. Use this to cross over for a crimp above with the right hand before topping out on the far left arete. Stretchy and powerful

Sit-start and make a big move left to a crimp around the side of the bloc. Use this to rearrange your feet to allow a direct finish up the left-hand arête. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade.

Jump for the small slanting sidepull on the arete with your right hand. Get established on the large rail above before topping out over the upper arete

Sitstart and climb the beautiful arete on its left hand side to a mantle.

High stand-start left of Maverick and climb the crack/wall using the vague arete to the right.

Climb the crack which fades out at the top.

A lovely delicate climb...can you find the crucial crimp?

Start as for TCC but make a powerful move right onto the good top hold on the other face. Make a hard mantle from here.

Stand start and up crack and wall.

Located 30m up the hill from Crossroads. Sit start with left hand on vertical crack and right hand on low pinch. Up and left via side-pulls to dead-point and mantle.

Sit start with low left hand sidepull and right hand in crack. Up through amazing finger-lock to top out.

Sit start and climb the arete. Don't go too far onto the left face and use the jugs/cracks.

Sit start and climb up the groove.

Starting left of the crack on good edges. Mantle the long positive edge. Crack sidepulls are in but not that helpful. Sidewall is adjacent boulder and out. Harder than the other V5s, so not V4!

A great line, stays independent from steadfast, and sustained all the way! Sit start at the crack with good feet, continue straight up past small crimps to a delicate top

Stand start, head straight up the crack past insecure moves. Unsure of the grade, could be height dependant?

Sensational. Sit start off the ramp using the glued flake. Long move to jug then technical climbing uo the right side of the arete to a tenuous finish way up high. ABSEIL DESCENT!

The excellent parallel seams/grooves on the back (East) side of the boulder. Start on boulder with left hand crimp and crystals for right. Hard move stepping off the boulder (will be much easier if you can reach the pocket or seams) then surf the line to a cool finish. ABSEIL DESCENT!

Sit start (crimp around the corner for left hand) and climb the fridge block. Can be done from a stand at around V1.

Stand start and climb the arete on the left-hand side. Don't use the detached block at the base for your feet at this grade.

Stand start using LH undercling and RH crimp in middle of wall. Static move to the crack then out.

Super thin. 4 or 5... see how many holds last! Low sit start on obvious crimps just right of Millers Tail (and without the bi=g seperate blocky fee on left side). Up through pretend holds to slopey mantle. No use of the arete.

Sit-start and climb the prow. Keep hands astride of prow - left on left side, right on right side.

Start as Moss Side Story. From the lip traverse left to finish up Alex Hipster.

Sit-start and climb the low hanging arete. Crux is the start and then eases considerably. No slab to the right - off limits.

At the far left of the crag. Climb the beautiful hanging wave wall ramp. Amended grade.

Stand start and climb the wall and nose. Don't use the ledge to the right for your hand/feet.

Stand start

Sit start.

Sit start. Can be done from a stand - slightly easier.

A couple of hundred metres further along track and down to the right from Stop-Point Motion etc. Stand on the sharp boulder to start. Up slab and out to arete and finish direct.

Start on the sharp boulder.

Compression line between right hand crack and right arete. Tricky and a bit contrived to not use the right wall. If you do give yourself honesty 3 or 4 depending on how much you use it. Sit start.

100m downhill from The Promise Of Insurance is a jumble of blocks with huge pine tree below.

Takes the steep downhill arete.

Traverse all the way avoiding the other boulder and tree to top out just around the corner.

Sit-start and use the holds on the inside wall. Markedly harder than the other V4s here and harder than Four Tet. V5 it is.