Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Inner Melbourne Burnley Bouldering Wall Wall 3- 45 degree wall | |||||
V4/5 | Arete hugging fun
Blue holds | 4m | |||
V4/5 | Harder as it goes
Orange holds | 4m | |||
V5/6 | Long Moves
Pink(?) holds | 4m | |||
V4/5 | No cheating: finish above volume
Green holds | 4m | |||
V5 | Fun times
Blue holds | 4m | |||
V5 | Where are the feet?
Orange holds | 4m | |||
Inner Melbourne Burnley Bouldering Wall Archived routes Wall 2 (30 deg overhang) Routes and Problems as of 2013 | |||||
25 | Blue Traverse | 6m | |||
V5 | Purple & Yellow Up | 3m | |||
V5 | Blue Up
Panel 3 from right | 3m | |||
Inner Melbourne Burnley Bouldering Wall Archived routes Wall 2 (30 deg overhang) | |||||
V4/5 | Make sure you ginish out L - no cheating!
Red holds | 4m | |||
Inner Melbourne Burnley Bouldering Wall Archived routes Wall 3 (45 deg overhang) Routes and Problems as of 2013 | |||||
25 | Purple Traverse
Includes purple system hold. | 6m | |||
Inner Melbourne Richmond Bridge | |||||
25 | ★ River side 5 blocks & under traverse
Traverse the wall in either direction only using the bottom 5 blocks #traverse | 16m | |||
Inner Melbourne Darebin Northcote Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ Lanky Lunging
Stand start using obvious crimp jugs. Dyno to the top of the bluestone bricks and top out over onto High st. Is probably harder than a 5 if your under 6ft. FA: Hugh Robertson, 27 Sep 2020 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Menage a trois
Start at the missing block that looks like the number 9 as formed by the missing area. Traverse left using only the drill holes from the plug and feathers masonry technique, many of which are very small (5cm) then climb up to the bricks at the same ending point as the Bridge street masonry traverse. FA: Jason Moody, 1 Aug 2020 | 7m | |||
V5 | ★★ Bon Voyage
Start at the missing 9 block then traverse right until you get both feet on the next missing block. Only use the masonry drill holes for the hands and any feet. Next project is to extend it to the following missing block (by linking up with the route Sort yourself out) but I couldn't work it out. FA: Jason Moody, 11 Aug 2020 | 10m | |||
V5 | ★ Northward voyage
This is the reverse of the route "bon voyage" start at the low missing block then traverse to the left until you get to the missing block that's about 1 meter up from the ground. This is an elimination that uses only the drill holes for the hands (all feet are in). FA: Janis L, 5 Sep 2021 | 10m | |||
V5 | ★ Sort yourself out
This climb starts where Bon Voyage finishes. Stand start matching head height chip. Traverse right only using the mansonary drill holes. Once you reach massive foot jug, top out over onto High St. FA: Hugh Roberston | 5m | |||
Inner Melbourne Darebin Merri creek bridge, Heidelberg rd | |||||
25 | Top block traverse
Traverse the bluestone wall using ONLY the top row of stones. Easier if you use both holds and cracks (~25), and harder if you use only the slopers on top (~27). Difficulty is about the same regardless of which direction you traverse. FA: Unknown | ||||
Inner Melbourne Sydenham Park West Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ Solid Purpose Direct
SDS Solid Purpose to the jug then dyno straight for the top. FA: Tom or Dave | 4m | |||
V5 | ★ Less Is More
SDS Face right of Solid Purpose. Big loose block wedge fallen out since climbed so grade uncertain now. FA: Tom or Dave | 4m | |||
Inner Melbourne Mordialloc Lifesaving Club Bouldering West Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ The Tendon Sacrifice
Stand start middle of the overhung wall, follow thin crimps and feet with good body tension, finish by touching the wall light. | 4m | |||
The You Yangs Lower Picnic Ground Back Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★ Fight to the seam
Hard crimping up RHS of boulder to horizontal seam, then up. | ||||
The You Yangs The Turntable Car-park Area Eastern Walking Track The Overlap | |||||
25 | ★ Primal Scream
Right hand arete of main wall. Bouldery start on edges, up to hanging flake. 1 carrot for belay above on slab. | 15m, 2 | |||
The You Yangs The Saddle Car-park Area The Saddle South Side Saddle Boulders | |||||
25 | ★★ Cameo
Very thin line up middle of orange wall, brushing past the tree after mid-height. 2 FH. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1992 | 10m, 2 | |||
The You Yangs The Saddle Car-park Area The Saddle North Side Big Deal Block | |||||
25 | ★★ Molar Mono
2m right of Big Deal, up past the diagonal seams on techo crimps and a toothy mono. FA: Harold Ramsey, 2014 | 10m, 3 | |||
The You Yangs The Saddle Car-park Area The Saddle Bouldering | |||||
V5 | Lip Traverse
Been a while; but traverse the lip to join the hanging arete. Slightly contrived. | ||||
V5 | ★★ Double Gaston Classic
Best problem here; although sit start is a bit bunched for some. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Double Gaston to Morning Glory
Start on Double Gaston Classic and reach right across into the first rail for High step to Glory and finish up that | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Lumpy Seam
Classic diagonal seam. Highball. Pebbles are solid; but does not get easier towards the top. FA: Goshen Watts, 25 May 2020 | 8m | |||
The You Yangs Rockwell Road North Butt-Crack Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★ Arisen
On the boulder in front of Tips Layback; Sit start on the rail at the lowest point. Move up to R before you can mantle over. Better (and harder) than it looks. | ||||
V5 | ★★ Shadow Face
Face R of the arete from sit start. Heads R to the middle of the wall, then finishes up L of the capping block. FA: Goshen Watts, Aug 2020 | ||||
The You Yangs Great Circle Drive North Gravel Pit Tor Area | |||||
25 | ★★ The Razor's Edge
Right wall of The Chuchu. Start as for Oona Poona past its first bolt. Instead of stepping left and up as for that climb, move up right to the dish and second bolt. From here continue diagonally up right past a third and onto the run out slab finishing as for The Shining (RB). Rebolted 2022 FA: Martin Lama | 18m, 5 | |||
25 | ★ The Edge of Everything
Worthwhile linkup connecting a couple of hard cruxes. Climb the first 2 bolts of The Razor's Edge, then traverse on good holds right until reaching the break below the crux bulge of Professor Everything, climbing its crux to the double ring bolt anchors. FA: Jimmy Stephens, 24 Jan 2023 | 20m, 5 | |||
25 | ★ Professor Everything
Direct finish to Doctor of Everything. Start of for DOE follow it to the break (optional large Cam). Wrestle with a hard move or two leaving the break and up the steep slab to DBB. Set: Matt Brooks | 22m, 5 | |||
The You Yangs Closed The Stockyards Car-Park Area WD40 Boulder | |||||
25 | WD 40
| 8m | |||
The You Yangs Cressy Gully Road Area Right Side Pins and Needles Block | |||||
25 | ★ A Slab of Tinnies (free)
Hard moves getting past the first bolt FFA: Harold Ramsey, 2013 | 17m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★★ Pins and Needles
Rebolted 2012 | 15m, 2 | |||
The You Yangs Cressy Gully Road Area Right Side The Boneyard Three Sisters | |||||
V5 | Ghastly Mellow Sax
Tall, committing moves, but great sequence on actual holds. FA: Goshen Watts, 2023 | ||||
Werribee Gorge Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk | |||||
25 | ★★ Super Redex
Direct start to Redex up the slab past a bolt and through the bulge. Tricky move to reach the flake and 3rd bolt, then small crimps and bouldery moves to join Redex at the jug. Keep it together up the rest of Redex. FA: Matt Brooks, 2 Jul 2023 | 30m, 9 | |||
Werribee Gorge Falcons Lookout Veni Vidi Vici Area | |||||
25 | ★★ Fuel the Fire
Up the wall 5m R of 'Crispin's Crispian'. Bolts replaced December 2021. FA: Martin Lama & Matthew Brooks, 1993 | 12m, 3 | |||
Camels Hump Omega Block Area Privy Block - Chain buttress | |||||
V3 - 5 | ★ Standing Strain Extended
Stand start with one or both hands on jug on Straining Rail. Finish as per that problem A few variants all in the V4 range. V5 if extended left via the Hull. | 8m | |||
25 | Liptasm
Absurd. Climb Stiff Upper Lip then climb the right 21 to the big furry break at 6m. Traverse easily right past the 20/21 and the 15s to gain the V3 traverse line as far as the last 21. Up that to finish. Would take some proper rope friggery... so might as well solo it. | 40m | |||
Camels Hump Omega Block Area Break like the wind | |||||
V5 | Nightshade
A hard sit start with low undercling and crimp. If you can reach the good holds near lip from sit start then V4. From lip a few slopy moves to gain rib immediately right of tree and up to finish on jugs. FA: Andy Crow | ||||
Camels Hump Omega Block Area Fern Hill | |||||
V5/6 | ★★ Underground Resistance
SDS matched on the lumpy jug. Edge and dish on the shield and then array of equally poor features above. Alternately can start on jugs of the Inbetweener, traversing left to NE prow start holds to link with Underground Resistance at V6 (dotted line - aka Short Circuit). | 3m | |||
V5 | ★ Out Too Far Direct
Sit start just left of OTFs flake using edges. Stand start goes at V3. | ||||
V5 R - X | ★★★ Glimmer Sparkle Fade Part II
Outrageous finish to Migration finishing direct above the scoop using a series of thin layaways and edges. Jugs left of scoop are out. High proud and not a good place to let go. With lots of pads and spotters its still only 60/40 that you won't get hurt. Anything less would almost certainly be costly. Can be approached from Out Too Far Direct SS at same grade or DOTLD at V6. | 6m | |||
Camels Hump Omega Block Area Lower Tier Speed of Light Wall | |||||
V5 | ★ Speed of Light
Left face of the gully above Leaky Bucket with the huge chockstone. Low start at the narrow letterbox slots below and just right of the chockstone with feet on half inch edges. Up the thin overhanging face keeping right of the hanging block till feet are level with it. When they are step left to finish standing on the chockstone. Carefully down climb the opposite face to descend. First climbed a few decades ago - needs a brush! | 6m | |||
Camels Hump Omega Block Area Lower Tier | |||||
25 | ★★ The Green Alliance
Thin up green face direct. Still goes despite some exfoliation though some have suggested it may be pushing 26. FFA: Martin Lama, 1991 | 15m, 4 | |||
Camels Hump Omega Block Area Omega Block | |||||
25 | ★ Methotrexate
Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route. Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 4th bolt on Bop till You Drop. Slightly down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick. A better alternative is to climb diagonally up and right from BTYDs 4th bolt (more sustained, same grade). If that’s not pumpy or wandery enough get a long rope and try Megatrexate 26... as per original to bewitched, but continue right via Voodoo People to jugs then a couple of hard moves to gain the OK holds halfway through the hard bit of wolf variant (FH). Climb it into the scoop, then right to finish up Boogie RHV. Requires lots of clips and an equally deranged second. FA: Mikl Law, 1981 | 25m | |||
25/26 | ★★ Satanic Dancing
Yet another linkup: Start on Bop, traverse into Satanic Verses like for Satan Said Dance, but instead of following Satanic Verses to the top, keep traversing up left from the largish sloper-sidepull ledge via Between Good And Evil, finishing on the Left Hand of Satan. Probably been done before? Nice homogeneous difficulty from start to top. | ||||
25 | ★★ Bop Till You Drop
Excellent, and not too hard for the grade. Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder. Rebolted 2014. FA: Mark Moorhead, 1982 | 22m | |||
25 | ★★ Bustin' outta' Bop
Yep another LU, and it’s good with double crux. Start of Bop to third bolt (Bop crux), step right and diagonally up right (Metho crux) to high fourth bolt of Broomstick. FA: tripleC | ||||
Camels Hump Omega Block Area My Only Wish Wall | |||||
25 | ★ My Only Wish
Let's leave it at 25 and see what people think... And try not to fall off at end of crux which could be bad for your ankles. Contrived but fun climbing up underside of arête of red wall left of limbo. Start at rightmost RB them left past 4 more to chain anchor. Stay below lip throughout. At last bolt avoid the temptation to follow holds up right and make a few more moves up overhung left face (crux) to mantle. | 15m, 5 | |||
25 | Into Oblivion My Only Wish
Up IO, clip 2nd FH with long sling then truck left below the lip as per MOW. | 20m, 7 | |||
Camels Hump Trackside Boulders Snot Blok | |||||
V5 | ★★ Boogers Direct
Start as for Boogers but instead of moving right muscle up through runnel gastoning slopes either side. | ||||
Camels Hump Trackside Boulders Globe Boulder | |||||
V5 | King John Direct
SDS Direct start to Big John avoiding the large starting holds of Tempest. Instead use a gaston edge for the left hand and thin sidepull with thumb catch for the right. The move is about 12 inches but still tougher and more technical than the other 4s down here. V5. | 3m | |||
Camels Hump Trackside Boulders Addiction Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★ Speedfreak
The half traverse...SDS in middle of wall. RH on vertical sidepull, LH on good crimp jug. Up to slot, match and across left into and up 8 Ball...very cool FA: Steve Holloway | ||||
Camels Hump Trackside Boulders McGregors | |||||
V5 | Scotch Tufa
Pointless eliminate. Sit start on tree with pinches and edges on rib of arete only (as per toddler marked topo!) | 3m | |||
Camels Hump Northern Sector Red Gate | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Red Gate
Start with LH on obvious jug, RH low on arete. Up arete then tough move or two to rock back onto face. Up. | 3m | |||
Camels Hump Eastern Outcrops The Gatehouse | |||||
V5 | ★ Devil's in the Details
Stand start in a elevator door move (two gastons). Think 'stick' and throw up to the jugs and top out. The green block to the left is out. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015 | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Moamyn's Manual
Start standing up into the sloping scoop. Grab the tiny crimps and learn to fly. FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2016 | 7m | |||
Mt Alexander Roadside boulders | |||||
V5 | ★ Dune
Stand-start and reach a small positive edge using crimps. From here, better holds lead to a big move to a large blob, and then the top. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Ghanima
Stand-start. Climb directly up the scoop, and then head out left via a small crimp on the face. From here, finish direct. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Sidney Crosby
Sit-start using the undercut with the right hand. Lean a long way leftwards to use a pinch on the diagonal crack. Use this to cross over for a crimp above with the right hand before topping out on the far left arete. Stretchy and powerful FA: Pete Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
V5 | My Brother's Idea
Sit-start and make a big move left to a crimp around the side of the bloc. Use this to rearrange your feet to allow a direct finish up the left-hand arête. This problem can be climbed from a stand-start at an easier grade. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2010 | ||||
Mt Alexander Artful Dodger | |||||
V5 | Lama's V5
Jump for the small slanting sidepull on the arete with your right hand. Get established on the large rail above before topping out over the upper arete FA: Martin Lama | ||||
Mt Alexander Hidden Hideaway | |||||
V5 | ★★ Anamnesis
Sitstart and climb the beautiful arete on its left hand side to a mantle. FA: Peter Reynolds, 20 Jun 2022 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Adak
High stand-start left of Maverick and climb the crack/wall using the vague arete to the right. FA: Peter Reynolds, 10 Jul 2022 | ||||
V5 | Guerilla Gardening
Climb the crack which fades out at the top. FA: Peter Reynolds, 2014 | ||||
V5 | ★★ The Crucial Crimp
A lovely delicate climb...can you find the crucial crimp? FA: Peter Reynolds, 2014 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Swimming Lessons
Start as for TCC but make a powerful move right onto the good top hold on the other face. Make a hard mantle from here. FA: Peter Reynolds, 2014 | ||||
Mt Alexander Eastern Slope | |||||
V5 | ★ Once Upon a Climb
Stand start and up crack and wall. FA: Peter Reynolds, 3 Nov 2020 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Constriction
Located 30m up the hill from Crossroads. Sit start with left hand on vertical crack and right hand on low pinch. Up and left via side-pulls to dead-point and mantle. FA: Matthieu Burgess, 22 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
Mt Alexander Crystal Creek Hell West Wall | |||||
V5 | ★★ Lock, Stock & Two Smoking Barrels
Sit start with low left hand sidepull and right hand in crack. Up through amazing finger-lock to top out. FA: Matthieu Burgess, 16 Jun 2023 | 3m | |||
Mt Alexander Kingdom Boulders Upper Kingdom | |||||
V5 | ★ Saturday to Sunday
Sit start and climb the arete. Don't go too far onto the left face and use the jugs/cracks. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2012 | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Autumn Air
Sit start and climb up the groove. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014 | ||||
Mt Alexander Outer Kingdom South Side | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Press Bias
Starting left of the crack on good edges. Mantle the long positive edge. Crack sidepulls are in but not that helpful. Sidewall is adjacent boulder and out. Harder than the other V5s, so not V4! FA: Garry A Williams | ||||
V5 | ★★ Jade Monkey
A great line, stays independent from steadfast, and sustained all the way! Sit start at the crack with good feet, continue straight up past small crimps to a delicate top FA: Spencer Lindsay, 26 Aug 2023 | ||||
V5 | ★★ Steadfast
Stand start, head straight up the crack past insecure moves. Unsure of the grade, could be height dependant? FA: Spencer Lindsay, 25 Apr 2023 | 5m | |||
Mt Alexander Outer Kingdom The Monster in the Forest | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Taniwha
Sensational. Sit start off the ramp using the glued flake. Long move to jug then technical climbing uo the right side of the arete to a tenuous finish way up high. ABSEIL DESCENT! FA: Mark Rewi | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Dirty Creatures
The excellent parallel seams/grooves on the back (East) side of the boulder. Start on boulder with left hand crimp and crystals for right. Hard move stepping off the boulder (will be much easier if you can reach the pocket or seams) then surf the line to a cool finish. ABSEIL DESCENT! FA: Mark Rewi | 6m | |||
Mt Alexander Outer Kingdom Smeg Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Smeg
Sit start (crimp around the corner for left hand) and climb the fridge block. Can be done from a stand at around V1. FA: Garry A Williams, 2020 | ||||
Mt Alexander Outer Kingdom | |||||
V5 | ★ Digby's Dream
Stand start and climb the arete on the left-hand side. Don't use the detached block at the base for your feet at this grade. FA: Peter Reynolds, 28 Sep 2021 | ||||
Mt Alexander Lucky Find | |||||
V5 | ★ Lucky son
Stand start using LH undercling and RH crimp in middle of wall. Static move to the crack then out. FFA: Dave C FA: 17 Aug 2019 | ||||
Mt Alexander Spirit Boulders Near the Quarry | |||||
V5 | Boz's Left Hand Face
Super thin. 4 or 5... see how many holds last! Low sit start on obvious crimps just right of Millers Tail (and without the bi=g seperate blocky fee on left side). Up through pretend holds to slopey mantle. No use of the arete. | ||||
V5 | ★ Last Days of Winter
Sit-start and climb the prow. Keep hands astride of prow - left on left side, right on right side. FA: Peter Reynolds, 31 Aug 2019 | ||||
Mt Alexander The Goldfield | |||||
V5 | ★ Alex Hipster
FA: Hiro Nishikwa, 7 Dec 2014 | ||||
V5 | ★ Alex goes to Moss Side
Start as Moss Side Story. From the lip traverse left to finish up Alex Hipster. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 2014 | ||||
Mt Alexander Wabbit Wocks The Main Slab | |||||
V5 | Collaring the Market
Sit-start and climb the low hanging arete. Crux is the start and then eases considerably. No slab to the right - off limits. FA: Peter Reynolds, 2 May 2022 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Wave Wall Ramp
At the far left of the crag. Climb the beautiful hanging wave wall ramp. Amended grade. FA: Peter Reynolds, 2013 | ||||
Mt Alexander Wabbit Wocks Lawnside boulders | |||||
V5 | ★ The Nose
Stand start and climb the wall and nose. Don't use the ledge to the right for your hand/feet. FA: Peter Reynolds, 2013 | ||||
Mt Alexander High Fells | |||||
V5 | The Wall
Stand start FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 21 Jan 2015 | ||||
V5 | ★ Mellon Collie
Sit start. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 23 Jan 2015 | ||||
V5 | Victim of Geography
Sit start. Can be done from a stand - slightly easier. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 23 Jan 2015 | ||||
V5 | ★★ The Promise of Insurance
A couple of hundred metres further along track and down to the right from Stop-Point Motion etc. Stand on the sharp boulder to start. Up slab and out to arete and finish direct. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 22 Jan 2015 | ||||
V5 | The Promise of Insurance (direct)
Start on the sharp boulder. FA: Peter Reynolds & Peter Reynolds, 22 Jan 2015 | ||||
V5 | ★ Judas
Compression line between right hand crack and right arete. Tricky and a bit contrived to not use the right wall. If you do give yourself honesty 3 or 4 depending on how much you use it. Sit start. | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Dreamer Deceiver
100m downhill from The Promise Of Insurance is a jumble of blocks with huge pine tree below. Takes the steep downhill arete. FA: @dalai, 7 Oct 2023 | 3m | |||
Mt Alexander Land of the Overhangs Technique Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Technique Traverse
Traverse all the way avoiding the other boulder and tree to top out just around the corner. FA: Peter Reynolds | 3m | |||
Mt Alexander Land of the Overhangs Land of the Overhangs Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★ Land of the Overhangs
Sit-start and use the holds on the inside wall. Markedly harder than the other V4s here and harder than Four Tet. V5 it is. FA: Peter Reynolds | 3m |