Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | |||||
22 | ★★ 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro
Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block. Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor. | 14m, 2 | |||
Arapiles Closed Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag | |||||
29 | ★★★ Steps Ahead
Sustained crimpiness up microscopic edges. Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of Little Thor. Tara Sutherland's Jan '98 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 29, followed shortly after by Megan Osborne. FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984 | 18m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Hit the Deck
Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex". As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts. FA: Mike Law FFA: Roland Foster, Philby & Eric Eastern Brown, 1984 | 18m, 4 | |||
Arapiles King Rat Area The Pimple | |||||
Unknown bolted line
Bolted pre-86, and even then the 2nd bolt was poxy and the 3rd bolt hadn't been put in. Unsurprisingly this seems to have been completely ignored ever since. | 2 | ||||
Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Cobwebs Gully | |||||
Ingvars Project
Left of Astral plane | |||||
Arapiles Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area | |||||
22 | ★ Strombeante
Roof above 'Togrul Khan' past two BR. Inadvertently retrobolted after the FA. It's a bit necky getting to the first bolt. The direct start from the bottom of the wall has been done (Smith Hoskins, 4/5/96), as has the sit start (!!) (Hoskins, 14/5/96). Start: Start above 'Togrul Khan'. FA: Geoff Weigand & Peter Croft (both solo), 1986 | 10m, 2 | |||
Arapiles Atridae Cassandra Area | |||||
17 | Limbo (Baby Limbo)
It may be a grade-17 sport route but the runout above the last bolt (although easy) should not be taken lightly. As for 'The Last Disco Dancer' to its third bolt. Head up L (crux) to a stance on the arête. Continue up the slab to the ledge and lower-off anchors. FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29 Jun 2015 | 18m, 3 | |||
19 | ★ The Last Disco Dancer
Technically interesting climbing up the wall L of 'Cassandra'. Clip the first bolt on 'Cassandra' then veer L and up past three more bolts. The crux moves are pulling past the final bolt into a bottomless crack/pocket. A few slabby moves off L gains the ledge and the lower-off anchors. FA: Glenn Tempest & Karen Tempest, 29 Jun 2015 | 18m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Cassandra Direct
Slippery and technical. The pikers variant to 'Pain Street'. Start: Start up 'Cassandra'. FA: C Peisker, 1978 | 23m, 6 | |||
Arapiles Atridae The Flight Deck | |||||
27 | ★★ Have a Good Flight Direct Start
Start as for Jetlag, 2m Left of the original but finish up HaGF instead. Still great climbing even though the Jetlag finish has been added. FA: Kim Carigan, 1984 | 20m | |||
29 | ★★ Jet Lag
Start: Start left of the big corner of "Orestes", about 4m Left of It'll Never Fly. FA: Geoff Weigand (Kim Carrigan climbed the first 8m (grade ~27) as the direct start to Have a Good Flight), 1984 | 18m, 8 | |||
24 | ★ It'll Never Fly
Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off. Start: Just left of 'Orestes'. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 20m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★★ Have A Good Flight
Climb It'll Never Fly almost to arete, then cut back diagonally right and up to another bolt (exciting) then up to anchor. Start: As for It'll Never Fly. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982 | 18m, 5 | |||
Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | |||||
25 | ★ The Flashing Blade
Short, soft and bolted - needless to say this one is popular. Start: Start on the uphill side of the 'Iron Void' pinnacle. FA: Nick White & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 25m, 5 | |||
Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | |||||
27 | ★★★ Exodus 2.5
At the top of the crux of Exodus II, break right to a 2nd bolt, then up and right to a 3rd bolt (past undercling pocket). Upon reaching the edge of the crack weakness (Copyright), cut back left via yet another boulder problem up the unlikely headwall. Sustained power. FA: Dave Jones | 20m, 4 | |||
Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Garden Wall | |||||
19 | ★ I Am Not A Pork Chop
Very nice, albeit short. A rare sport route at this grade at Araps. There is gear after the last bolt, but it's very easy. FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 12 Dec 2015 | 15m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ Cogito Ergo Wobble
Scramble R along the ledge from the block at the start of Pritchard's Neuralgia. Starts up the easy corner, can be done as a sport route but worth taking a medium cam for before the first bolt. Wild overbolting mitigates the dubious jug. FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, Jan 2016 | 15m, 5 | |||
Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Closed Fang Buttress | |||||
26 | ★★★ Ergonomics
Recently re-bolted. Excellent long-overlooked addition that incorporates a direct finish to Strolling RHV. Direct line up the centre right of the buttress that would have been completely uncontroversial had it pre-dated Strolling RHV. Sustained climbing leads up and slightly left through a bulge to a technical crux. After the 4th bolt, continue straight up on blowable slopey pockets. Do not traverse off R here if you want to bathe in the social recognition of a legitimate ascent. Start: 3m R of Strolling. FA: Dave Jones 2005; Dave Jones | 20m, 5 | |||
Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Krondorf Area Boulders Oops boulder | |||||
30 | Bliss
Two carrot bolts protect the face. Would be an amazing boulder/solo, but has not been done yet. | ||||
Arapiles Bluffs Denim Wall | |||||
29 | Berlin Calling
FFA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | 20m | |||
Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | |||||
29 | Aristocracy
| 20m, 6 | |||
Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face | |||||
26 | ★★ Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct
From the anchor of Anxiety P1, head straight up the arete on its right side, but instead of deviating out left in the last two-thirds (original finish), keep trucking up the arete all the way, to lower-offs. FA: Jill McLeod | 20m | |||
27 | Anxiety Neurosis Original Line
As for AN but follow the original aid line up leftwards from the 2nd FH - don't drop down to get to the arete. Bouldery. Start as for AN. | 20m, 2 | |||
30 | ★ Leaps
Bolted by Kimbo decades ago, this long-standing problem succumbed to the short strong bloke with dreads. Start as for Anxiety Neurosis and boulder direct through the bulge to the start of Bounds and finish up it or Anticipation. FA: Davey Jones, 1998 | 10m, 3 | |||
Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major West Face | |||||
28 | ★★ On the Prowl
The steep arête right of Missing Link following four bolts up and right before joining the finish of The Prow. Start 3m left of Station to Station at the U Bolt. FA: Gordon Poultney | 20m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★ The Prow
Start as for StS. As for StS to the break then up the arete, making sure your photographer is ready for when you whip. FA: Simon Mentz & Andrew Eastaugh, 1994 | 22m, 6 | |||
Nick White bolt line
The unclimbed line of bolts. It looks like Veneer has cleaned up the first 15m of this as there are no other bolts between TYOLD and V. But this old line might also include another bolt up higher … clarification welcome. FA: Equipped Nick White, 2000 | |||||
26 | ★ Veneer
Start 3m left of Unrequited. Climb the face left of Unrequited passing three bolts before gaining that route a few moves before it escapes right. Step left and boulder the short wall above passing a final high bolt. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 15m, 4 | |||
28 | ★★ Required
Start just R of Unrequited. A more fingery version of Slopin' Sleazin' perhaps? FA: Ingvar Lidman | 15m, 3 | |||
Arapiles Castle Crag | |||||
29 | ★★ The Overtaker
Originally climbed at 31, but subsequent ascents have used the larger holds just L of the old crux. Start: Boulder start through underclings left of The Undertaker to jug, then out to crimps out left and up, briefly into Siva Direct. Trend right up to a hard boulder problem finish (direct via the pinch). A left hand sequence is also possible. FA: Nick Sutter, 2002 | 18m | |||
28 | The Caretaker
Up Undertaker to about 6m, then left and up past bolts. Dave has bolted and been working on an independent start. FA: Dave Jones, 2013 | ||||
31 | Nati Dread Direct
As for 'Nati Dread', but power straight up after the lip past a new crux to rejoin the original route (finishing as for that). FA: Nathan Hoette, 2007 | 25m | |||
Arapiles Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Hot Coq
Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route. Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This. FA: Nick White, 1992 | 15m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ John and Betty
A popular sport route (but you may wish to take some gear for the finish). Stepping left into Boomer for the first half is quite unavoidable. Start below the orange wall near the highest point of the arch, and follow the line of fixed hangers. FA: Kieran Loughran, 1992 | 23m, 5 | |||
Arapiles Grotto Wall Area The Bat Cave | |||||
30 | ★★ Living With a Hernia
Awesome power route taking the main line through the cave. "The best power route in Australia" (Nathan Hoette). FA: Douglas Hockly, 2003 | 10m, 3 | |||
Arapiles Voodoo Area New Image Wall | |||||
25/26 | ★★ Lick the Spoon
Thin with some long moves on fantastic rock. 5 FHs to the right of Blackguard. Lower off. FA: Gareth Llewellin & Geordie Webb, 4 Nov 2016 | 20m, 5 | |||
Arapiles Voodoo Area Rats Alley | |||||
26 | ★ Crystal Vision
Climb the thin wall between CP and T. Place a runner in 'Tarantula' before starting. FA: John Smoothy & Mark Colyvan, 1986 | 20m, 4 | |||
Arapiles Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress | |||||
31 | ★★ First Blood
The blank looking beautiful buttress left of Chinese Algebra FA: Alister Robertson, 2013 | 15m, 5 | |||
Arapiles Voodoo Area Waste of Space Gully | |||||
27 | ★ Double Negative
Set: CJ, 2022 FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 9 Nov 2022 | 10m, 3 | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Uncle Charlie | |||||
33 | ★★ Punks Addiction
Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. At least two repeats, Chris Lindner in 2009 and Byam Keil in 2023. Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym. FA: David Jones | 25m, 9 | |||
33 | ★ Somalia
Deterred many very strong suitors for many years and finally fell to the Kiwi Wizz kid FA: Wiz Fineron, 2012 | ||||
★ Hard Awesome Looking Project
Looks bloody desperate. | 17m, 4 | ||||
24 | ★ Disbarred
Four bolts on the wall right of Spasm. Don't bridge at the start but do bridge the finish. FA: Gordon Poultney & Rob Oliver, 2007 | 15m, 4 | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall | |||||
24 | ★ Raptures of the Steep
Right-hand line on little wall with a rusty carrot. Used to have a fixed pin and two bolts but has now been rebolted. Steep thuggery to awkward topout. Now has 4RBs and a DRB lower off. FA: Peter Stebbins, 1991 | 9m, 4 | |||
24 | ★ A Bum Full Of Fists
Originally trad, and originally started up the wide groove just left of Braindrops. When the route was sent into Argus the route name was rejected and thus never recorded. The bolts, lower-off, and direct start were added by Geoff Little in 2018. From the ledge 12m up Lamplighter, 4m left of Braindrops. Up shallow right-facing corner past RB (20) to ledge. There's a stick clip on the ledge to clip the next bolt safely (please leave the stick there), then pull through roof seam and continue up wall past three more rings to a lower off (17m to ledge, 25m to ground). FA: Geoff Little & Tony Dignan, 1979 | 17m, 5 | |||
28 | ★★★ Slopin' Sleazin'
Pure face climbing funkness. Originally graded 25 and worked on via some very dubious gear. Climbs the crazy groove 10m R of Lamplighter past 4 ringbolts to a DRB anchor. Super technical and sustained, with a variety of options available for undertaking the crux, none of them particularly a giveaway! Unconventional and classic moves make this one of the best routes at Arapiles. FA: Mike Law, 1983 | 15m, 4 | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos South Face | |||||
27 | ★★★ Mind Arthritis
An outstanding climb taking the major line on the South Face. Quite finger intensive and very exposed. Originally climbed with a piton as the last gear - though this has now somewhat controversially been replaced with a bolt. A small cam can be placed in the top runout. FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985 | 25m, 5 | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Spellbinder Area | |||||
22 | ★ Clockwork Angels
Start on low prow of rock 1m right of 'Act In Haste'. Gambol upward to the low roof (possible low cam if desired), and clip the first bolt. From the second bolt, a blind move to the right, around the arête (for a grade 21 move right again and up 'Is It About A Bicycle?'), then head straight up with a foot on either side to clip third bolt and up to finish. FFA: Robert Mudie, 5 Mar 2017 | 12m, 3 | |||
Arapiles The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower | |||||
28/29 | Unknown
The tough-looking bulge just left of Pumping, to lower-offs. Name TBC. FA: Ingvar Lidman | 12m, 5 | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Henry Bolte Wall | |||||
32 | Gridlack
| 15m, 4 | |||
31 | ★★ Zorlac The Destroyer
A righthand finish to Slinkin'. Start: Start as for Slinkin'. FFA: Jerry Moffat, 1992 | 15m, 4 | |||
32 | ★★ Destroyer of the Rings
Awesome sustained face climbing linking Lord of the Rings into Zorlac the Destroyer FA: Lee Cossey, 2015 | 15m | |||
31 | ★★★ Lord of the Rings
Remarkably sustained face on thinner and thinner holds. If you fall off the slab you'll be in good company. Start as for "Wackford Squeers". FA: Stefan Glowacz | 15m, 5 | |||
31 | ★★★ Lord Of The Rings Direct
Start at the weakness down right of "Wackford Squeers" and go fairly much straight up. FA: Nick Sutter early 1990s, 2000 | 20m | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Mysteries Wall | |||||
29 | Honey Pot
A bolted boulder problem. The holds are generally good, but seeing as they are all vertical - guess what that means for the feet? 'Dynamic' and very powerful. FA: Nathan Hoette | 5m | |||
25 | ★★ Bottom Feeder
A direct start to 'Anus Horribilus'. Start as for that route but go straight up through a small undercling to the 2nd bolt. Cruxy moves lead into the finish of the original route. FA: Steve Kelly, 2004 | 15m | |||
25 | ★★ Anus Horribilus
A classic at the grade. Bouldery start leads to quite continuous climbing on good slopey holds. Steeper than it looks! FA: Dave Jones, 1998 | 15m | |||
29 | ★★ Pooh Connection
Climbs the direct start to Pooh Sticks and links that route into Anus Horribilus. Despite being slightly contrived, a brilliant conception. Two distinct halves offering Blue Mountains like crimping to start, followed by gritty slopers. The original start steps off the pillar at the 2nd bolt (left hand in pocket), and is a couple of grades easier. Toby Pola - pulling on above the direct start... but below the original start! FA: Nathan Hoette, 2004 | 25m | |||
28 | Super Pooh
Tweaky Climb the bulging arete to the right of Pooh Sticks - beware the tweak factor! FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2008 | 15m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★ 100 Acre Wood
Ultra technical face climbing. Start: Attractive orange streak at the very base of 'Mysteries' 'Gully' (downhill from Goats Song). FA: Steve Kelly, 2004 | 12m, 3 | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Echo Crag | |||||
21 | ★ Jesus Built My Hotrod
Originally called 'Nativity' Direct Start and poorly protected. Now retro-bolted and popular. Starting just right of arete, climb pretty orange wall through small overlap. Continue steeply up wall to small stance and rap anchor. FA: Mark Moorhead & Fred From, 1979 | 15m, 4 | |||
Arapiles Far North Intrepid Gully | |||||
31 | whatsinaname
FFA: 2020 | ||||
24 | ★ The Three Rings
The slightly overhanging little wall down and R of the entrance to Intrepid Gully has three ring-bolts. It's quite technical but very short so boulderers will probably just highball it at V2! Set: Glenn Tempest FA: Glenn Tempest, Feb 2017 | 12m, 2 | |||
Arapiles Far North Upper Curtain Wall | |||||
26 | ★★★ Drama Queen
An Arapiles sport route - bolts where you need them (and nowhere else). Straightens out A Hundred Little Baby Bums by going straight up the brown streak past 7 bolts. Somewhat ironic given every other route here induces brown streaks of their own ... Clip protruding carrot of Hundred Little Baby Bums under the roof and monkey on to the face. Straight up past 3 more fixed hangers in the middle of the brown streak (escape out left into AHLBB is possible at both bolts 3 and 4 at grade 25 and 26 respectively). Up on to slab and AHLBB's 2nd carrot and a final sting direct up past another 2 FH's though a steep finish. FA: Gordon Poultney | 25m, 7 | |||
Arapiles Far North Werewolf Area | |||||
28 | ★★ The Vampire
A good find by Muki Woods finishing up the funky wall to the right of 'Werewolf'. Start: Start as for 'Tribulation'. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 18m, 8 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground The Guardhouse | |||||
21 | ★ Affluenza
Far left most route. Start direct under the first bolt at grade 21, or climb in from the left at 20. A tricky mantle in the middle spoils the pumpy slopy fun. Five RBs and lower-off. Be wary of the last few metres, the jugs are a bit too big for comfort. FA: Neil Monteith & Steve Bright, 2007 | 14m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Line Of Sight
Cracked bolt has now been replaced (2022). Possibly the best route at the Guardhouse. Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall. 5 UBs and double UB lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
24 | ★ Felonies Under the Radar
A punchy start (sandbag?) leads to a sustained finish through and around the roof. Stick clip the first bolt, then four more to the anchors. 3rd bolted line from the left: RB then FH then RBs the rest of the way. FFA: adam demmert, 2008 FA: Adam Demmert, 2008 | 11m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Miss Communication
Short punchy number. The 4th bolted route from the left with the white stained scoop in the middle. Up slopers to roof heuco. Over this on incuts then one final tough move to jugs. Chain anchor. 4 RBs. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 10m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Little George
Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold at second bolt, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. It can be extremely difficult to put a draw on the third bolt because the ring is recessed quite deeply (it depends on what type of 'biner you use, some skinny ones go on easily, others are impossible). Double RB lower off. FA: Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith, 2003 | 14m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Ranger Danger
Weaves around black streak on far right side of main wall. Bouldery start up slopers and slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to rest stance then up past RB and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs. Five RBs and DRB lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2003 | 13m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Shoot Onsight
A good warmup before heading up to the terrace. Starts left of Fractionally Flamed and follows the juggy steepness. 5RBs and rings to lower. FA: Poppy & Sage Karson, Nov 2022 | 15m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Fractionally Flamed
Sandy slopers. Starts back at ground level and 40m right of the main wall. White clean streak on otherwise juggy grey wall. A tad runout for the inexperienced. 3 RBs and lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Steve Bright, 2007 | 15m, 3 | |||
19 | ★ Tech Noir
Start off big slopey pocket, head up trending riight to anchors shared with My Body is a Cage. Can be wet after rain FA: Dick Lodge, 6 Aug 2023 | 15m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ My Body is a Cage
Start off block, head left under 2 bolt along tricky rail a up and back right to jug and 3rd bolt, head up to anchors shared with Tech Noir FA: Dick Lodge, 6 Aug 2023 | 12m, 4 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentinel Cave | |||||
16 | ★ Green Moon
First line of bolts, to the left of the start of the access traverse. FA: Neil Monteith, 2012 Set: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 17m, 6 | |||
16 | ★ Easy Moon Landing
Link up. Climb Easier Puzzle and after the fourth bolt trend up and left to join Green Moon at the fourth bolt. FA: 21 Mar 2023 | 18m, 7 | |||
16 | ★ Easier Puzzle
Originally a trad route retrofitted with 4RBs some time prior to 2015. Takes the middle of the three warm up lines at the start of the fixed rope. Finish at anchors for HSHM. FA: Phil Neville, Joe Morgan-Payler & Michael Schedlberger, 2003 | 12m, 4 | |||
17 R | ★ Half Shark Half Man
Steep and juggy sport warm-up at the far left end of the cave. Starts halfway across the approach traverse at single u-bolt belay. Up through orange jugs and then grey cracked face. Runout between bolt 1 and 2 is a bit scary. FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, Stephen Hawkshaw & Neil Monteith, 2003 | 14m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Media Puzzle
Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB's then up scoops on jugs (2 RB's) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith, Joe Morgan-Payler & Jacqui Middleton, 2003 | 16m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Media Puzzle Extension
An excellent bonus finish to 'Media Puzzle'. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 extra FH's then up to chains (crux). November 2016 - first FH on extension is loose! FA: Peter Daish & Damian Hall, 2003 | 18m | |||
26 | Why Monty Why?
A bit stupid. Starts 2m right of Media Puzzle - up a few metres then traverse left to join MP. Climb all the way to top of cave. Ignore bolt out left Bolted by Monty in the dark ages. FA: Trent Searcy, 27 May 2018 | 10m | |||
25 | ★ Makybe Diva
Short and brutal in true Nowra fashion. A direct start to 'Antics'. Starts 10m right of Media Puzzle at ground level. Three FH's. Either lower off first bolt on 'Antics' or continue outwards for the full grade 26 finish. FA: Neil Monteith, 2004 | 7m | |||
22 | ★ Roof of Doom
Anyone say girdle? A scuttling novelty route across a big roof. Originally attempted on trad – but after Neil pulled a huge block off the lip and plummeted headfirst onto the halfway ledge it was decided to bolt it. Climb to first bolt on 'Stepping on Snakes', traverse left across 'Army of Ants' to big ledge. Walk left across this to FH and keep going across line (big cams) to roof flake (FH). Out impressive 3m roof and up steep arete past RB to lower off bolts. FA: Neil Monteith, Jacqui Middleton & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2003 | 35m | |||
27 | ★ Canadian Honey
Line of FHs through roof left of 'Antics'. Start as for MD. 2 boulders broken by no hands rest. Bolted by Monty in 2004. FA: 2004 FFA: Josh Grose, 27 May 2018 | 10m | |||
26 | ★ Antics
Another HB signature roof route. Follow 'Army of Ants' to first bolt, then traverse left to ledge. Climb left leading roof flakes through 5m ceiling directly above the ledge past 4 FH's to lip. Back jump to clean. No anchor. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2003 | 14m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★ Army of Ants
Short, powerful and popular. Start just right of small arete in centre of cave at ground level. Don't wear slip-ons unless you're OK with losing a shoe mid-route! Thin reachy face to start precedes big dynamic moves up steep wall and finish via big scoopy roof 1 FH & 4 RB's. Lower off chain. FA: Rohan Archibald, Neil Monteith & Jacqui Middleton, 2003 | 15m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Stepping on Snakes
Classic steep thugging. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five RB's and double RB lower off. Watch your back when lowering off. FA: Neil Monteith, 2002 | 14m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Screaming Barfies
Easier start just right of SOS – then finish left as for SOS through the roof. 4 U-bolts. FA: Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie, 2006 | 10m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Dwarf Pumper
Self explanatory. Far right side of cave. A 'Nowra' style mini pumpfest. Three RB's up steep orange wall. Double RB lower off at top. FA: Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002 | 8m, 3 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Sentinel Wall | |||||
17 | ★★ Fot as Huck
Great easy sport route! Left most bolted line on right edge of roofy section. Big jugs up slightly overhung wall finishing at bolt anchor slightly to the right. Retrobolted - originally a trad route. FA: Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002 | 20m, 6 | |||
20 | ★★ Sunraysia
Starts about 4m right of 'Fot as Huck'. Long reaches between good holds trending left to the same anchor as 'Fot as Huck'. Originally a trad route. FA: Neil Monteith & Joe Morgan-Payler, 2002 | 20m, 5 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Campground Doddery Rock | |||||
20 | To Be Young
Two starts - tall people start left at big crack. Stick-clip first ring bolt. Climb towards ring bolt then out left to jug, back into centre pockets and up. 3 rings in all, and triple rings on top. FA: Trevor Wall, 2007 | 6m, 3 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Mount of Olives Shangri-La | |||||
22 | ★ Wild Bonzi
Line of 5 bolts at the very left hand end of the main face. Follow right trending crack to difficult moves into the corner and up to a welcome rest. Head back left and then up to anchor. FA: Catherine de Vaus, Adam Demmert & Meg Dennison, 2008 FFA: @cathdv, Meg & adam demmert, 2008 | 9m, 5 | |||
24 | Hidden World
Starts at tree against cliff. Bridge up tree till you can reach break above slopy ledge. Now power your way to the top. FFA: adam demmert & @cathdv, 2008 FA: Adam Demmert & Catherine de Vaus, 2008 | 15m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ The Last Bastion
Good and interesting climbing, tricky crux followed by and exciting mantle and sustained climbing to the top. Maybe 27. Start: Next bolted line right of Hidden Kingdom FFA: adam demmert | 20m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★★ The Fat of the Land
This line breaches the steepest part of the main wall on perfect rock, with some amazing moves to get through the bulges. Start at the left of 2 cracks that head up the the lower part of the main wall. Blast up through some very steep bulges, with some great slopers for slapping. FFA: adam demmert FA: Adam Demmert, 2008 | 25m, 9 | |||
26 | ★★ Lost Horizon
The overhanging arete on excellent orange rock. Steep moves lead to a difficult transition to the face, with another sting in the tail above. Known to have shut down quite a few strong climbers... suggesting (at 26) it's yet another Adam Demmert sandbag! FA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2008 FFA: adam demmert & Heath Black, 2008 | 20m, 7 | |||
25 | ★★ The Vanishing Kingdom
So called because you can't see any of the holds from the ground. Start up in between Lost Horizon and Deborah Triangle, following the line of bolts up the weird never quite horizontal holds to a difficult crux through the bulge (don't be afraid to use the slopey side pull!) to a thank god pocket. Then continue straight up to join Deborah Triangle at the last bolt. FA: Adam Demmert, 2008 FFA: adam demmert, 2008 | 20m, 7 | |||
24 | ★★ Kingdom Triangle
Links the fantastic wall of The Vanishing Kingdom into Deborah Triangle's corner at a much more reasonable and sustained grade. Use long sling on the bolt at the bulge. | 20m |