Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall | |||||
11 | ★ Stage Coach
Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'. Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'. FA: Ceri Law & Geraldine Thompson, 1981 | 20m | |||
11 | ★ Working Class Hero
Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'. Start: Just right of SC. FA: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Ian Wilson, 1980 | 20m | |||
11 | Ckup
Line immediately right of Long Bow. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1994 | 20m | |||
Arapiles Colosseum Wall Area Colosseum Wall | |||||
11 | Hail Spagnum
The rightward leaning crack around right of 'Roaming Knows'. FA: G. Jones & Irvine, 1996 | 8m | |||
Arapiles King Rat Area White Mice Walls | |||||
11 | Right Hand Variant
The corner on the R to ledge, then interesting curving corner. Start: Start as for LHV. FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Dave Simpson, 1975 | 40m | |||
Arapiles King Rat Area Bum Rocks | |||||
11 | Fireman Don't Got Convictions
Traverse both cheeks via the orange weakness at half height. Start: Start up the L side of Bum Rock. FA: R. Sonist (ha ha), 1989 | 45m | |||
11 | ★★ Bottoms Up
Straight up the slab and clean wall about 3m right of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 30 Jan 2016 | 14m | |||
11 | ★ Wash Your Hands
Start as for Bottoms Up, moving diagonally right and up short grey wall to alcove. Straight up nice wall above, steeply at first. Juggy steep wall to the summit (originally done as a separate, 6m, pitch). FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Findlay, 28 Jul 2016 | 20m | |||
Arapiles King Rat Area King Rat Gully Marx Wall | |||||
11 | Gummo
Line 1m R of Groucho. FA: Paul Badenoch, 5 Aug 2019 | 10m | |||
Arapiles King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle | |||||
11 | ★ Lizard Procrastination
1
6
20m
2
11
20m
One of Araps' earliest routes. Start: Start beneath the front face (the one facing Dec Crag).
FA: Mike Stone & Ian Guild, 1964 | 40m, 2 | |||
Arapiles Atridae Agamemnon Area | |||||
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon
A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed.
FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964 | 40m, 2 | |||
Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Left Side Iron Void Pinnacle | |||||
11 | ★ Tubby Tuba
The chimney between the Finger Prince and Iron Void pinnacles past funny blocks and ancient machine nut. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1966 | 24m | |||
Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side | |||||
11 | Harpsichord
Start at the base of the "second hole" near the top of the 'Organ Pipes Gully'. Climb the front of the scrappy grey buttress. FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987 | 25m | |||
Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes | |||||
11 | ★★ Piccolo
1
11
18m
2
11
15m
FA: Garry Kerkin & Ian Speedie, 1965 | 33m, 2 | |||
11 | ★★ Piccolo Direct
| 33m | |||
11 | ★★ Didgeridoo
Start as for Horn Piece on the Didgeridoo Pipe. Veers left from Horn Piece near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade. FA: Ian Speedie, Garry Kerkin & Mike Stone., 1965 | 35m | |||
Arapiles Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | |||||
11 | Deflated
Dirty. This and the next two climbs were named in honour of Chris Dewhirst's inglorious attempt at hot air ballooning at 'Arapiles'. Start: Start at the short, easy corner.
FA: Francine Gilfedder & Chris Baxter., 1981 | 35m, 2 | |||
Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall | |||||
11 | ★★ Pedro
Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready. Start: Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start). FA: Mike Stone, Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 1965 | 36m | |||
Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Left Charity Buttress | |||||
11 | Heatherbell
The RH line up the small orange buttress. Start: Start 20m R of 'Treachery'. FA: Gordon & Heather Bedford, 1993 | 10m | |||
Arapiles Central Gully Upper Central Gully Skyline Walls | |||||
11 | Freckled Duck
Vegetated groove 7m right of the start of Tres Hard. | 26m | |||
Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Reaper Buttress | |||||
11 | ★★ Red Parrot Chasm
The monumental chimney on the R side of Reaper Buttress. The smooth crux section can be done either by stemming on the outside or grunting on the inside, but either way the pro is a bit skimpy. FA: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1964 | 55m | |||
Arapiles Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | |||||
11 | ★ Transylvania
Quite good. The abseil route comes down the first pitch so watch out for traffic and don't monopolise the bolt anchors if the area is busy. Start at a wide crack just left of the block leaning against the cliff.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Fiona Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 1999 | 60m, 2, 1 | |||
11 | ★ Vampire Arete
This airy arête can be a second pitch to Native Companion, or an alternative finish to Transylvania. It’s the prominently visible arête directly above Subliminal Cut. From the first belay of Transylvania, move left and climb arête all the way. FA: Keith Lockwood, Andy Schmutter, Steve Findlay & Ken Wilkinson, 31 Jan 2017 | 40m | |||
11 | ★★ Dracula
1
11
25m
2
8
15m
Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block. Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.
FA: Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1965 | 40m, 2 | |||
11 | Red Parrot Jism
This is on the lower tier of the Minstrel Pinnacle. The obvious chimney. FA: Hoskins & Pritchard, 1995 | 15m | |||
Arapiles Fang Buttress and Surrounds Closed Fang Buttress | |||||
11 | Fear of Praying
Up slots to overhang, step L, then up wall trending R to gain arete. Skip the top overhang by traversing off left. Start: Start 1m R of DB. FA: Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch & Roger Murphy, 1976 | 33m | |||
Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Minor | |||||
11 | Bluff Minor
From Ali Baba's Cave, scramble up to a ledge between Bard Buttress and Bluff Minor. You ascend the southeast face of Bluff Minor, overlooking the Pines. Epic summit vibes.
FA: Rob Taylor & Reg Williams, 1965 | 55m, 3 | |||
Arapiles Bluffs Flinders Lane Area | |||||
11 | Open Sesame
A pleasant link from Flinders Lane to below Missing Link. Climb the steepish seam up the wall across right from Scorpion Corner, 3-4m right of the slimy access corner. FA: Keith Lockwood, Matisse, Amy & PLC girls, 23 Nov 2016 | 16m | |||
Arapiles Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge | |||||
11 | ★★★ Blockbuster
The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position. FA: 1964 | 30m | |||
11 | Whiskers
Up wall trending R, over bulge and into chimney. Start: Start R of B. FA: Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & ANdrew Smith, 1966 | 30m | |||
Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Seneca Wall | |||||
11 | The Lost Chord
This is a good pitch to go to the top of the cliff after Phoenix or 'The Eighth'. Start: Start at the top of 'The Eighth', at far R end of Flinders Lane. FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran (alt) & Felicity Rousseaux, 1993 | 30m | |||
Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall | |||||
11 | ★ Eagle Cleft
1
2
30m
2
11
30m
3
10
30m
4
10
28m
Start: Start under the big chasm which separates 'Bard Buttress' and 'Tiger Wall'.
Monster chasm FA: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964 | 120m, 4 | |||
11 | ★★ Phoenix
Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.
FA: Bruce Hocking & Ian Speedie, 1964 | 98m, 3 | |||
11 | ★ The Eighth Direct
FA: John McLean & Richard Schmidt.., 1966 | 96m, 3 | |||
Arapiles Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area | |||||
11 | ★★ The Dribble
1
8
35m
2
11
20m
3
10
50m
4
7
15m
Ruthless cleaning, trundling and bolting have brought this climb back to popular notice. A good effort all around. It's a pity that the route hasn't been set up with a rap route as the last pitch is pretty poxy and then there's the walk-off. Start below the first clean streak left of Pan Grove, above the clear-felled area.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve Mid 70s., 2000 | 120m, 4 | |||
Arapiles Castle Crag | |||||
11 | ★★ Trapeze
Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above. Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face. FA: Russell Judge & Don Bennett, 1964 | 20m | |||
Arapiles Grotto Wall Area Grotto Wall | |||||
11 | ★★ Bastress
The arching grey buttress between The Flue and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route. Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab. Up the slab (poor pro) to the L edge of the grotto, then continue up the line above. FA: Rod Harris & Dave Neilson., 1967 | 36m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Vanoise Area | |||||
11 | R.I.P. Sludge
This sits almost directly above "Defector" on Ministry Wall; combining the two could be quite nice. Otherwise, to get to the start, scramble up the descent route on the left side of the Vanoise Wall and go left a little or come down from the top. Central line up little brown tombstone-shaped buttress above and left of descent route. FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins, Suzie Frost & Dave Clarke, 1993 | 10m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully | |||||
11 | Sensible Shoes
Start on right side of wall. Traverse easily left and finish up weakness left of 'Stranger Than Friction'. FA: Chris Baxter & Mike Stone, 1985 | 20m | |||
Arapiles The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Cheops Buttress | |||||
11 | ★ Gwen
Steep, juggy corner on right edge of chimney. FA: Heather Phillips, Kieran Loughran & Keith Egerton, 1981 | 20m | |||
Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Pinnacle Face Tiptoe Ridge Area | |||||
11 | ★ The Slot
An old-fashioned route. Start below the chasm just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle, as for 'Aphrodite'.
FA: Peter Jackson, Doug Angus. Alternate finish : Ian Guild & Doug Hatt., 1964 | 100m, 2 | |||
Arapiles The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face | |||||
11 | Malcolm’s Bent Friends
A gentle introduction to the joys of slabbing. Take a selection of cams, bent or otherwise. Start right of Panzer at clean streak – Battle of the Bulge.
FA: Steve Findlay & Keith Lockwood, 21 Dec 2016 | 120m | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Harlequin Cracks Area | |||||
11 | Trouble With Lichen
Follow 2 corners to easy ground, aiming for large left-facing flake. Pass this on left and up. Start: Start at short corner 2 metres right of 'BA Mosquito'. FA: Bill Andrews & GIT course member, 1981 | 45m | |||
11 | ★★ Harlequin Cracks
The long corner of the first pitch is lovely.
FA: Ted Batty, Bob Bull, Peter Jackson. Pitch 3 corner : Rob Taylor & Daryl Carr., 1966 | 80m, 3 | |||
11 | ★★ Salami
1
11
36m
2
9
15m
3
10
30m
FA: Peter Jackson & Chris Baxter, 1965 | 81m, 3 | |||
11 | Salami Direct Finish
A good finish for 'Salami', starting from the first belay. Climb steep cracks and corner above the first belay. FA: Daryl Carr & Jerry Grandage, 1965 | 27m | |||
Arapiles Northern Group Shiralee Wall | |||||
11 | Most persecuted politician in history
Up easy crack in centre of wall, cross left over I will build a great wall to next easy crack. FA: Wendy Eden & Ying Ying He, 12 Jun 2017 | ||||
Arapiles Far North PB Gully | |||||
11 | Banjo Opera
Climb the unassuming but nice wall between Eddie Mabo and Is The Pope A Catholic. FA: Kieran Loughran, Tibor Janos & Keith Lockwood, 1 Aug 2018 | 25m | |||
Arapiles Far North Intrepid Gully | |||||
11 | ★ Intrepid
Steep, wide crack on the right wall, deep in the gully. Poor protection without some really big cams. FA: Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood, 1967 | 18m | |||
Arapiles Far North Cliche Wall | |||||
11 | Redback
Appropriate that these two should be new route hunting near JLYF. Start: Start right of 'Just Like Your Father'.- I assume this is the obvious corner on the right end of the wall FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 2001 | 15m | |||
Arapiles Mitre Rock South Mitre | |||||
11 | ★★ The Bishop
Start as for Revelations, Serpent, etc.
FA: Garry Sudholz & Rod Sutherland, 1967 | 50m, 2 | |||
Arapiles Mitre Rock Hells Bells Area | |||||
11 | ★ Armageddon
The sustained dog-leg crack to a steep, juggy finish. FA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967 | 13m | |||
Arapiles Mitre Rock North Mitre | |||||
11 | ★★ The Archbishop
Start at the painted initial 'A'.
FA: Geoff Uebergang & Keith Lockwood, 1967 | 48m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ Penny Dreadful
Start below thin seam on the first bit of orange rock left of the gully, 8 metres right of the initial A marking the start of The Archbishop.
FA: Peter Watling, Andrew Bowman, Gen Corcoran & Phill Hay, 1973 | 40m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ Bangla Desh
Worthless. Has lots of loose blocks as well. FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1973 | 36m | |||
Arapiles Western Side Possum Rocks | |||||
11 | Myles
Climb the wide crack which is the major feature of this outcrop and is clearly visible from the road. FA: Keith Egerton & Peter Watson, 1975 | 20m | |||
Arapiles Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | |||||
11 | Leprechaun
Some nice moves but a bit scrappy. Right arete of pinnacle above and left of Zorba. Start about 10 metres up left of 'Sundowner' at clear initial L. Roped descent off back of pinnacle necessary. FA: Alec Campbell & John Veasey, 1967 | 30m | |||
11 | Mr Crab
Looks quite OK. Start: Start at blocky groove 1.5 metres left of Couer De Lion. Faint initials MC. FA: Chris baxter, Chris Dewhirst & Keith Lockwood, 1973 | 48m | |||
11 | ★★ Beginners' Luck
Line with great rock on small wall at head of descent gully. FA: Ed Neve, Chris Baxter & Keith Lockwood, 1973 | 12m | |||
11 | Scarper
Up the curving crack. Finish back up right. Start: Star at the curving crack on the left (east) side of the buttress. There\'s a small cave just left of the start. FA: Keith Egerton, Phil Wilkins & Jane Wilkinson, 1983 | 13m | |||
Arapiles Western Side Deep South | |||||
11 | Cotton Balls
Start just right of the gully and climb narrow east face of buttress. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1979 | 15m | |||
11 | Doodad
The prominent corner and roof several metres right of 'Oldies But Boldies', exiting right at roof. FA: Iain Sedgman & Peter Canning, 1999 | 10m | |||
Arapiles Western Side Pop Wall | |||||
11 | As Tears Go By
Corner crack to narrow chimney on right side of buttress. Exit on wall just below chockstone. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1968 | 21m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Bordel Buttress | |||||
11 | Strumpet
This is the prominent corner 30m right of Sweet Sue. Bridge up the corner to the top, go up the chimney, and then climb the right-hand line to finish. FA: Peter Watling & Dave Asquith, 1985 | 25m | |||
11 | Aunt Glad
This is the corner 8m right of Bridget. FA: Philip Armstrong & Iain Sedgman, 1977 | 30m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Crows Nest | |||||
11 | Farewell To Arms
| 70m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Eyrie | |||||
11 | The Windhover Direct Finish
| 37m | |||
11 | Vulture
| 88m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero Pangaea Walls | |||||
11 | Pied Oystercatcher Head Stabilization
The name is much more interesting than the climb. FA: Megan Rush, David Burnett & André Geelen, 1991 | 12m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mount Zero 4 Cornered Crag | |||||
11 | ★ Lost Daze
The fourth corner. FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1984 | 14m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock Bellerophon Wall | |||||
11 | ★ Rungwalk
L of two lines 10m R of 'Voyage Of Discovery'. Up the narrow groove to an open smooth groove. FA: Barry Windridge, Ian Thorn & Gordon Bedford, 2000 | 21m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Flat Rock Cloud Cuckoo Land | |||||
11 R | Heat Haze
Undistinguished and not well protected. Start: Start in middle of slab. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1994 | 20m | |||
11 | White Rabbit
Lovely corner that's harder than it looks. Start: The corner on the L side of the slab. FA: Ray Lassman & Kieran Loughran, 2006 | 12m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Grey and Green Walls The Grey Wall | |||||
11 | ★★ The Crank
An easy classic. The finishing chimney is desperate and the grade is given for the easier alternative. Start: Start below the easy corner 20m L of 'Petite Fleur'.
FA: Ian Guild & John McLean(var) Easter., 1965 | 110m, 5 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall | |||||
11 M4 | Icarus
You have to clip about 12 lousy bolts before getting to the climbing. Has been done without hammering by Kirsty Hamilton. Overall grade is 11 M4 - but it is not clear whether each pitch deserves the grade. Start: Start 15m R of 'Centaur' below the first weakness in the huge overhang.
FA: Andrew Thomson & David Mudie, 1970 | 61m, 2 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Closed Main Wall | |||||
11 | Milk Armour
| 15m | |||
11 | ★★ Waxman
One of the best easy routes in the entire 'Grampians'. 'Fantastic' pro and steep buckety climbing. Start: Start 5m L of TC, at the base of the chimney. FA: Stan Manley + 2, 1979 | 25m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Calcutti Crag | |||||
11 | ★ Left Right Out
The arete | 10m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Bird Wall | |||||
11 | Escape From Alcatraz
| 25m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Noah's Ark | |||||
11 | Pump That Body
| 8m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Wall of Fools | |||||
11 | ★ Stock Man
Another relatively neglected line which looks very worthwhile. A star has been added to entice the crowds over from 'Back Wall'. Start: Start just L of 'Handles'. FA: Mathew Alen & Aidan Banfield, 1989 | 35m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Bowler Boulder | |||||
11 | Don't Blink
The line of choss L of RE. FFA: Steven Barnett, 1988 | 7m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Callitris Gully | |||||
11 | True Quality
| 20m | |||
11 | Boy Toys
| 15m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Scout Cliff | |||||
11 | Brownsea
| 20m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Brownie Buttress | |||||
11 | Hey There Little School Girl
| 15m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley The Last Bastion | |||||
11 | The Glum Chum
The flake 2m right of Heartbeat. Finish up that climb. FA: Mark Savage, 1989 | 12m | |||
11 | Wish You Were Here
4m right of Changing Boots. Up over bulge, continue to top over slab. FA: Mark Savage, 1989 | 11m | |||
11 | Momentary Lapse Of Reason
3m right of Ronnie etc. Up with a poorly protected start. FA: Mark Savage, 1988 | 11m | |||
11 | In The Flesh
3m right of Bastille, marked with a small painted square. Up to and up the steep wide juggy crack. FA: Jarrod Smith & Michael Pirzas, 1988 | 11m | |||
11 | Comfortably Numb
Very faintly initialled thin crack. Climb about 3/4 of the way up then veer left to top. This face is steep, has suspect small holds and little obvious gear. It looks much harder than grade 11. FA: Mark Savage & Peter Savage, 1988 | 11m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Summerday Valley Old Campsite Area | |||||
11 | Wild Honey
| 12m | |||
11 | Rockclimbing Smurf
| 12m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Amnesty Wall Area Orange Blossom Wall | |||||
11 | ★ Paperclip
Delicate slabbing and one of the best long beginner routes in the area. A slight variant of this route was claimed as Swiss Cheese 47m 14 by Richard Morris in 1986. Start: Starts 5m right of 'Layback' And Think at left end of slabby wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Ben Sandilands (var leads), 1973 | 91m, 3 | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Unknown Problems (to be sorted) | |||||
VB- - 10 | Unknown/Unticked - to delete
FA: Gav Portier/ Gilli Helbig | ||||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Clicke Wall Clicke Wall | |||||
11 M2 | Piracy
M2 11. A silly climb. Climb the corner immediatly right of 'Clicke Crack' to the roof, aid left to the arete and finish up 'Clicke Crack'. Start: Starts just right of the obvious splitter 'Clicke Crack'. FA: Roger Caffin, 1966 | 24m, 2 | |||
11 | Stepping Stones
Steeper and meatier than appearances suggest. Start at the pine tree near the base of 'Attila'. Up onto boulder, step onto wall then diagonally right up ramp for 3-4m to prominent steep juggy wall. Straight up wall veering gradually right to finish centrally. FA: Keith & Tim Lockwood, 1997 | 30m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Kindergarten Northern Caves | |||||
11 | Stepping Stones
| 30m | |||
Grampians North Grampians Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Expedition Crag | |||||
11 | Loose Chocks
| 15m | |||
11 | A-climb-atizing
| 10m |