The Bread-Knife 🚫

Climbing in this area is banned/illegal.





An amazing fin of rock right beside the trail to the Grand High Tops.


Unfortunately climbing is prohibited on the Bread-knife due to close proximity of the tourist track. Any climbers caught climbing here could receive a hefty fine and jeopardize climbing access in the Park. The following routes are included for completeness and historical interest only. Descent was previously by a double-rope abseil from a bolt on N summit, or from slings on S summit. Climbs are listed clockwise down E Face and back along W Face. The topos have been interpreted from the descriptions. Feel free to update if you know where they actually went.

Access issues

Climbing is prohibited on the Bread Knife.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

An inspiring face and climb. Start below white streak from eagles' nest, just R of vines.

  1. 8 m Up large boulder for 5 m, then traverse 3 m L.

  2. 18 m Step down, traverse 6 m L, then over bulging rock to V-cleft and bolt belay.

  3. 9 m Traverse R on rising ledge to corner. Hard mantelshelf near bolt. Piton belay.

  4. 21 m Up and L to eagles' nest (hopefully empty!). Roof (bolt), then corner (crux).

  5. 9 m R round corner, up crack for 2 m, then R and up to bolt. Now L and up.

Originally 17,M2 with aid on pitch four.

FA: Bryden Allen & Ted Batty, 1964

FFA: Chris Dewhirst & Peter Treby, 1974


Start directly below first belay of South Arete, at steep,juggywall.

  1. 14 m Wall. Piton Belay.

  2. 19 m (crux) R to steep ramp, then through overhanging step. Ramp.

FA: John Ewbank & John Worrall, 1966


The original route to the top. Exposed. Start at gap between Bread-knife and Butter-knife. Scramble along ridge for 15 m to base of arete.

  1. 12 m Two little walls, mantel, then up to pinnacle.

  2. 21 m Down, then L round arete to W face. Up and L to gain ridge.

FA: Russ Kippax & Bill Peascod, 1954


Start on W Face, R of gap.

  1. 6 m Up break in overhang, then R to tree.

  2. 28 m Up until angle eases, then L.

  3. 33 m L past bush to piton belay.

  4. 35 m R and up. Piton belay.

  5. 18 m Gully

FA: Bryden Allen & Chris Regan, 1963


The first grade 18 in Australia! Brilliant route-finding.

Start on W Face, at N end of overhang.

  1. 21 m Up rotten rock. piton, belay off block.

  2. 21m R across yellow wall (pitons) to piton belay.

  3. 21 m Up beneath overhang.

  4. 15 m R until looking down into central scoop. Slightly L to grey break in yellow overhang above. Up 3 m.

  5. 24 m Up steeply (pitons) to good stance.

  6. 18 m Up.

  7. 15 m Traverse down R.

  8. 15 m Traverse R, to R of chimney.

  9. 24 m Swing strenuously up wall on R, then L to gully.

  10. 15 m Gully

FA: Bryden Allen & Chris Regan, 1963


Girdle traverse of W side of Bread-knife and Butter-knife. Start as for North Arete.

1-3: 75 m Traverse R past smooth, grey rock and bolts to small stance just before steepening. Bolt or piton.

4: 30 m (crux) Diagonally R to ledge. Steep and exposed.

5-6: 60 m R until diagonally down is easier. Slabby, smooth, greenish rock to ledge.

7: 45 m Traverse R, crossing Minor Route, to below gap between Bread-knife and Butter-knife.

8-11: 105 m Traverse R across Butter-knife to its S arete. Finish up this.

FA: John Ewbank & John Davis, 1964


Start 10 m lower than North Arete.

1-7) Up past Heart-stopper to finish up Minor Route. Bolt and piton runners.

FA: Dick Smith & John Davis, 1965


Start on E side of Bread-knife at N end, up about 5 m on to rock ridge.

  1. 9 m Traverse 3 m L, then R under overhang.

  2. 9 m Traverse L to E Face, then corner and nose on R.

  3. 24 m Arete to ledge.

  4. 6 m Up.

  5. 6 m (crux) Over block and wall above.

6-7) 39 m Traverse L on to E face, then ramp to gap between summits.

'8) 12 m Up.

'9) 33 m Along· ridge to abseil point.

FA: Russ Kippax, J Field, P Hardy & David Roots, 1956


Start as for North Arete.

  1. 18 m Arete to piton belay.

  2. 24 m Up W side of arete to base of steep wall.

  3. 36 m (crux) Up, round overhang, then traverse to ramp on E Face.

  4. 18 m Ramp to saddle, then up to N summit.

  5. 12 m From saddle, up W Face to S summit.

  6. 45 m Ridge to bolt belay on S arete.

FA: Russ Kippax, J Field, P Hardy & David Roots, 1956


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