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The Butter-Knife

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 9
5
AU

Seasonality

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Description

This cliff is immediately south of the Bread-knife, and offers high-quality shorter routes. Climbs are described south to north, along the west face. The topos have been interpreted from the descriptions but are unconfirmed. Please update as required.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at small buttress 18 m L of approach.

  1. 18 m Up.

  2. 27 m Still up.

  3. 33 m L to cracks; up these.

FA: John Ewbank & John Worrall, 1966

  1. 21 m Up to piton belay 12m L of The Sabre.

  2. 24m Up steeply to small ledge. Piton belay.

  3. 36 m (crux) Up and R, then to yellow niche with hand-crack. Now traverse 5 m L, then wall and bulge to big corner. Up

FA: John Ewbank & John Worrall, 1966

Impetuous and daring. Start 9 m R of Cutlass, below steep, L-leading line.

  1. 33 m Up ramp, then R and up. Avoid overhang on L, then up to stance and belay.

  2. 27 m Up to piton, then R and up steeply to ledge. Now up L to ledge, then 5 m up and L to bolt belay.

  3. 30 m (crux) Up to small roof on nuts, then bolts up R. Free moves to gain further nut and bolt, then free moves R and up steep wall to piton. Up carefully to bush and blocks.

FA: John Ewbank & Alec Campbell, 1967

  1. 39 m Up rib 9 m R of Minor Route for 9 m to overlap, then L and up R to small stance.

  2. 18 m Traverse 5 m L, then up to slot and piton belay at steepening.

  3. 30 m (crux) L and up for 5 m, then back R. Up past pitons, then R to groove. Up.

FA: John Ewbank & Alec Campbell, 1967

Crack at S end on E Face.

FA: Ross Vining, Bill Blunt & Al Ross, 1973

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