★★ Ginsberg 19

A route with a reputation. On the FA John Ewbank fell off the belay after choosing to ignore a bolt belay, placed by Allen on a previous attempt, in favour of some nuts. The nuts failed and Ewbank's fall was arrested by Allen, who was leading at the time! Then, in the early 80s, Warwick Baird fell 25 m on to his belay anchors while leading. Later Bruce Cameron took a 45 m fall while seconding after part of the ledge above the crux pitch gave way on Frank Moon. Despite such horror stories this route remains one of the finest and most popular, on Bluff Mountain.

Start about 30m right of Aladinsane, 15m right of nose of rib. Some old belay bolts were replaced 2010.

1. 27m Up crack then chimney to a small stance in a recess.

2. 36m Move right from the recess then over a bulge and a wall to reach a ledge. Traverse left to a belay beneath a slanting corner.

3. 36m Easily left, then follow a rightward slanting corner to reach another recess

4. 21m Move right and cross various ribs until a big scar is seen. (Don't go right round main rib.) Pleasant climbing straight up leads to a belay next to a 'beer barrel'. 'A truly glorious pitch' - Noddy. (An alternative pitch, directly from belay on pitch three to groove/roof, has been done at grade 20 by Bruce Cameron and Frank Moon.)

5. 36m Up and over the beer barrel then climb left to below a very loose steep corner. Up this to an exposed stance and bolt anchor,

6. 6m Technical climbing leads to a good ledge.

7. 36m Climb straight up the wall for about 12 metres to a small ledge. Move right then up short corner to roofs (Crux). Then absolutely superb climbing leads one out across the slab rightwards to reach a small roof. Over this then continue straight up wall and corner to next roof. Move left to a good stance on a little tree.

8. 30m Up slightly left, thence diagonally right to a bolt anchor on a small ledge.

9. 24m Diagonally right into a gully then up.

10. Up juggy wall to top.

11. Up.

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

Originally climbed at 17, M1 with two sections of aid on pitch seven.