The Ramparts

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 40



Access issues inherited from Monkey Face

Access to the crag is an easy 10min walk from either the Monkey Face or Gap Creek Falls carpark. You can also access the crag via the top car park and head down Central Gully.


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Grade Route

The overhung corner start leads to an easier angled continuation to a tree belay. Either abseil off tree or carefully climb the easy corner to walk off left along the terrace above the Smear Slabs.

FA: 1978

A contrived line, the bolt was for the obvious start through the roof, which is yet to be completed. Climb Inertia to the lip, then traverse the lip, to the bolt, where a hard move gets you established on the slab. Climb the slab / wall above using side runners in Inertia where required.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1991

Swing left from the base of Apocalypse and climb it's left arete. Move right to shared DBB above Apocalypse. Small cams and wires protect mid section

FA: David Gray, 1986

The wide crack left of the diagonal block to DBB.

FA: Dan Rogers & Ben Ewald, 1980

Straight up the orange and black striped wall right of A. Avoid bridging into that route for full value. Plug hand sized cams into the diagonal then up overhung wall As for Plagiarism variant To finish at DBB

FA: Vanessa Wills & David Gray, May 2020

Follow Apocalypse to the roof then the diagonal line beneath the block to exit through a groove to DBB

FA: Ben Ewald & Dan Rogers, 1981

As for PB, but halfway along traverse head straight up overhung wall on jugs to DBB

FA: John Wilde & George Feig, 1988

The scooped weakness right of 'Apocalypse', in the middle of he wall, finishing at the end of the 'Plagiarism Blues' diagonal at same DBB. Large cams in pockets provide some protection, or top rope after doing PB

FA: John Wilde, 1984

Climb the orange wall just left of the large cave past 3 carrot bolts to a #1 friend break below the roof. A steep reach past a final bolt leads to a large ledge. DBB now on ledge

FA: Wayne Anderson

The corner, after negotiating the lip of the cave. Move right to anchor above Strapidectomy.

FA: David Gray & Michael Gray, 1981

Chimney up through the cave to join 'Vascolomys Wambach' at half height.

FA: Michael Gray, 1981

Start at the right hand end of the triangular cave, climbing the wall right of the crack to meet the break (traverse line) 2/3 of the way up. Move right to the arete and continue airily to a tree belay, or anchors above strapidectomy. Now several bolts on other routes can be used and you won’t feel so Buzzed out.

FA: David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1982

Up scoops on right hand side of cave direct to join crack, and finish as for Strapid-dichotomy at DBB. Originally done with no bolts. Finger to hand sized cams for top section.

FA: David Gray, 1980

1m right of cave, passing 3 RBs to crack at left of roof. Cams to #1.

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, May 2020

The original route. Up left of blunt arete as for Strapid-dichotomy, then traverse right to blunt arete , up Strapid-bisectomy to roof, the traverse left Under roof, to finish up crack to DBB below tree. Rebolted 2020.

FA: David Gray & Paul Riviere, 1986

Direct route following blunt arete in the middle of wall through roof direct to shared DBB as for Taipan/ Easy Meat. . #1 and #0.4 cams between 3rd and 4th bolt and a 0.75 in pocket after last bolt. Belay just down from terrace, #3 for belayer protection.

FA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, May 2020

Traverse carefully from the left to clip a bolt then continue with difficulty up the arete.

FA: George Feig & John Wilde, 1991

Almost a sports route, rebolted on RBs. Right of Easy Meat arete. Up thin face, original headed left at second last bolt, now finishing direct past extra bolt then #4 cam to DBB.

FA: John Wilde

The wall and flake in the centre of the wall.

FA: John Wilde & Jenny Anderson, 1988

Pocketed wall then the right hand flake / corner, just left of the corner of 'Terminally in Traction'.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1985

Classic right facing corner .

FA: Ben Ewald & Dan Rogers, 1980

The right hand line of the square cut groove.

FA: David Gray & Bruce Donaldson, 1981

FA: Darrin Gray, 1982

FA: David Gray, 1983

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