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  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 19

Seasonality

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Description

Described right to left.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Either down keyhole, abseil from trees above routes which is close to end of road, or walking down via a gully is possible, though overgrown

Routes

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Grade Route

corner crack 5m to right of Jace and Tims crack. Tree stump 2/3 way up, off width at top, to DBB.

FA: Jason Piper & John Hollott, 9 Sep 2013

About 20m to right of F Sharp. The large vertical off-width in the middle of the face.

FA: Jason Piper, 2013

Splitter crack with a small roof down low then a sustained offwidth. Was 23M1, best done with 3 #6, 3 # 5, a .75 for a horizontal, # 4 and a # 9 and big bro for the top.

FA: Jason Piper, 2013

FFA: David Gray & Vanessa Wills, 1 Jan 2018

The offwidth corner to the right of F sharp, and at the left of the Shuffler wall. Gear from #4 to #6 (#5s the most useful). Up to ledge then up the wide corner crack

FA: David Gray, 2017

Hand crack that runs up left side of cave at mid height. Has DBB

FA: Brett Arnold, John Wilde, Darrin Gray & Jimmy Gilbert, 1989

The middle crack of the wall. Twin cracks to grass tree at half height then offwidth to shared anchors with Crumpet Crack. Big bro or # 9 cam needed for the offwidth crux (can be top-roped from the Crumpet Crack anchors)

Hand crack passing two blocks trending right at top to DBB

FA: George Fieg & Paul Riviere, 1989

Wide chimney / gully

FA: George Fieg (solo), 1989

Start at the diagonal crack, then follow crack systems upward

FA: John Wilde, Brett Arnold, Darrin Gray, Jenny Rogers & Dan Rogers, 1989

Up crack to overhung block, the follow right hand crack to tree, then rightward trending crack to finish

FA: John Wilde, Brett Arnold, Darrin Gray, Jenny Rogers, Jimmy Gilbert & Dan Rogers, 1989

Thin crack splitting Elite's right wall, follow the crack to the diagonal, to merge with Elite

FA: John Wilde, George Fieg, Jimmy Gilbert, Darrin Gray & Brett Arnold, 1989

The obvious corner to tree belay

FA: Darrin Gray & David Gray, 1989

Sustained and thin pebble face climbing leads to a flake and a mantle finish. Rebolted 2020 on rings to DBB after mantle. Abseil off.

FA: David Gray & Darrin Gray, 1989

Start 25m right of "Pom's Crack" at crack below prominent tree. Up crack to tree. Cross ledge to a rightward trending traverse above a block to an overhung corner. Up corner and right to a deep V crack to exit.

FA: Darrin Gray (solo), 1989

Start 20m right of "The Big Swing". Climb crack to the top of a large block, then tackle the great looking overhanging hand crack.

FA: John Wilde & George Fieg, 1989

The obvious large roof crack, right of the "Key Hole". An impressive on-sight first ascent.

FA: John Wilde & Daniel Danuser, 1989

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