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The L hand end of the crag where there is a well maintained track and boardwalk. There are over a dozen fixed anchors along the top of the cliff, so many of the routes can be top-roped. There's quite a lot of loose rock around so on a busy day it's a good idea to wear a helmet at all times when you're at the base of the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Werribee Gorge

State park

Parks Victoria advises that 'Falcons Lookout' is currently the only area open for climbing.

Descent notes

Walk off the back if you're not toproping.

Ethic inherited from Werribee Gorge

Visitors are encouraged to use this area responsibly and to adopt safe practices during all climbing and aseiling activities. The use of safety equipment, including helmets, is recommended.

Please keep to the tracks, observe access agreements, remove all rubbish, and climb safely.


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Grade Route

The flake around to the Left of 'Anal Crank'.

FA: Martin Lama (solo), 1991

The first quasi-decent sheer orange face you get to after coming down the stairs.

Up from the cave then L to the arete.

FA: Mike Law (solo), 1984

Start as for 'Anal Crank'.

Straight up the faint seam in the middle of the orange wall. There used to be a bolt ladder from the half way point, where the seam ends, but this has now been chopped, probably increasing the grade of the climb to M6-M7.

FA: aided pre. Free details unknown., 1976

Start 2m Right of 'It'.

The corner.

FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1970

The corner 1m R of Brutus. Up short corner crack to ledge. Move up arete/slab (no protection) and join Brutus at layback crack.

Usually top-roped after Brutus.

As usual CB commandeered the blunt end for this "extreme" piece of climbing.

Start 9m R of 'Brutus'.

The L corner.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1971

Up the crack 2m Right of 'Execution' to broken blocks at the top.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter, 1971

Start at small cave 1m Right of 'Persecution'.

Up the arete between 'Persecution' and 'SPQR'.

FA: Nick Reeves, 1977

Inexplicably given 3 stars in previous guides.

Start 1m R of Consul's arete.

Up the R sloping crack then R up larger crack.

FA: Bernie Lyons, Steve Craddock & Gary Lovejoy, 1971

Steep one meter right of the final head wall and climb the steep cracks.

FFA: Unknown

FA: Unknown

Pull out of cave(4m R of SPQR) and up right side of large scoop. Step R and up to to big pockets. Straight up widening cracks in the headwall.

Start 1m Left of 'Cuniculum'.

Up to ledge then R and up.

FA: Martin Lama & Graeme Smith, 1991

Start 10m Right of 'SPQR'.

The rotten line.

FA: Peter Jacob & John McMahon, 1971

Start 2m Right of 'Cuniculum'.

Up the black streak then Left along the easier crack.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft (Toprope), 1977

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1978

Fairly respectable by Werribee standards.

Start 2m R of 'Ebony'.

The face the L to the arete.

FA: Andrew Cannon & Andrew Stevens, 1988

Good climbing. The gear is adequate but very fiddly; it regularly sees gear-popping falls.

Start 2m L of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

Shares French Revolution's first bolt.

Up orange wall then R to vertical seam.

FA: Hugh Foxcroft

FFA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1970

FA: Hugh Foxcroft (Aid M3), 1977

2 star hand jamming ... for about 3 moves.

The obvious hand crack to the ledge and then up the flared crack in the orange face above.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1970

A much better quality finish, though you have to pretend the block on the R isn't there.

Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

The finger crack with forks at the top. Take the L fork.

FA: Peter McKeand & Andrew Thomson, 1971

One move wonder, but still ok.

Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

The finger crack with forks at the top. Finish R up the ramp and corner.

FA: Peter McKeand & Andrew Thomson, 1971

A shite sandbag squeeze job.

The bolted line between 'Hadrian' and 'Big Ears'.

FA: Brad Johnston & Marnie Pascoe, 1999

One of the best easy routes here.

Upgraded from 15 when a block came off. There's another still there at about 6m which might go someday so don't put your gear behind it.

Up the broken corner 3m R of 'Hadrian'.

FA: Peter McKeand & Andrew Thomson, 1971

This good little number is polishing it's way up through the grades.

Start 2m R of 'Big Ears'.

Suspiciously "uniform" incuts to gain sidepull flake, nice moves over black bulge.Up right past last bolt to double ring lower offs. Don't toprope through the rings.

FA: Glenn Tempest, Jeremy Boreham & Rod Young, 1978

Contrived, but the moves up high are quite ok.

Start 3m R of 'Snatch and Grab'.

The flakey line to the arete. Climb L side of the arete. Resist the urge to stem L or R. Up to double ring lower off.

FA: Simon Parsons & Russell Crow, 1988

Start 4m R of 'Snatch and Grab'.

Loose scary corner/crack.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1971

Start as for 'Sweet Chariot'.

Hug up the arete between 'Death Gate' and 'Sweet Chariot'.

FA: Mark Rewi, 2005

Far superior to SPQR. Good jamming and interesting moves all the way up the nice corner.

The corner crack 1m R of 'Death Gate'.

FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1970

Squeeze job with worthless pro, but good moves, so skip the hero act and just top-rope it.

Start at the corner 4m R of 'Sweet Chariot'.

Up the corner to the rooflet then R and up.

FA: Reg Marron & Nic Taylor, 1974

Climb 'Vulcan' to the flake. Go R and around arete, then follow the crack in the upper L wall.

FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Ian Ross, 1970

One of the few Werribee routes that deserves the star it was given in the printed guide.

Start 1m L of 'Barbara Streisand'.

Up to flake then straight up the middle of the face. Add points for style if you finish direct over the middle of the overlap, otherwise finish up Vulcan.

Step R to descend from Barbara's chains.

FA: Kim Carrigan (top-rope), 1970

FFA: Wayne Jensen & David Coulson, 1990

Did a singer ever have more appropriate initials?

The bolted line L of the prominent arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan (top-rope), 1980

FFA: Mike Law, Ian Ravenscroft & Jim Thomas, 1982

The crack just Right of 'Barbara Streisand'. Finish up the ramp.

FA: Keith Lockwood, 1970

Scramble up to ledge at base of Ben Hur and follow the 4 FH up face into small corner and then traverse up and right across slab to Scipio Africanus anchors.The ledge has been lowered somewhat by others, so a stick clip for the 1st bolt is recommended.

Set by Dick Lodge, 31 Jan 2015

FA: Dick Lodge, 31 Jan 2015

Start as for Hannibal, then follow the fixed hanger and ring bolts up and around the arete to rap station.

Start up Scipio Africanus, clip first hanger,then first ring of that route, then continue up right hand side of the arete, via technical arete funkyness to mantle onto ledge and onto double ring lower off.

Set by Dick Lodge, 30 Oct

FA: Dick Lodge, 7 Nov

Start as for 'Hannibal' the short crack on Left to ledge, Left and up.

FA: Ian Ross & Keith Lockwood, 1971

Start 6m Right of 'Barbara Streisand'.

Up flakes to ramp then Right into the orange corner.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, David Neilson & Michael Stone, 1971

Start as for 'Hannibal' then Right to steep Right leading corner/crack.

FA: Ian Ross & Geoff Gledhill, 1972

Previously given 2 stars ... what the?! For poor rock-starved Melbourne-ites, it'll eventually be worth doing ... but not even they could seriously give this route any stars.

Start 5m R of 'Hannibal'.

The hand-crack through the bulge, then the wider crack above the ledge, finishing up crack on L.

FA: Peter McKeand, 1971

Start 3m Right of 'Androcles'.

Up flakes to corner crack then overhang. On through blocks and ledges.

FA: Andrew Thomson, Tim Hancock & Peter McKeand, 1971

Start 2.5m Right of Cicero.

Up broken flakes to overhang then crack over blocks. Right beneath summit block to crack.

FA: Bruno Zielke & Bob Connell, 1971

Start 3m Left of 'Golgotha'.

Up arete to the ledge below Octavia's crux, then Right and up grooves to ledge. Up cracks then Left to finish up Octavia's final crack.

FA: Ian Ross & Michael Stone, 1971

This offwidth corner crack has a fan club of thrutchaholics.

Start up the ramp on L then into and up the imposing corner-crack.

FA: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1971

Start as for 'Golgotha'.

Go halfway up the corner-crack then Right at the rooflet, follow the seam across to finish up Redex's finger crack.

FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan (top-tope), 1970

FFA: Simon Parsons & Matt Barrett, 1988

Start as for 'Redex Irlont Sudano' then continue straight up when Redex goes Right.

FA: Wayne Jensen, 1990

Possibly the best route at Werribee, and a nice easy tick at the grade.

Start 3m R of 'Golgotha'.

Easy slab, over bulge, then traverse R along lip. Up face 3m L of arete to gain finger crack finish. Lower-offs are on the R just below the capstone.

FA: Mike Law & Ian Ravenscroft, 1982

Excellent and seriously underrated in previous guides.

Start beneath the proud arete 3m R of Redex.

The crux bulge down low is easier than appearances suggest, but very technical...and no piking off to the R! Above that is an awesome airy sustained arete, stay on the R side at first, but move to the L side at the cave, and at the top step L to Redex's loweroffs.

FA: Mike Law & Steve Howden, 1991


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