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Description

Houses the Pectoralis major boulders, Hippie Boy (V7) and is dominated by a large wall known as the Winnie Boulder, (ie. Winnie the Pooh) Some trad lines in here too.

Access issues inherited from Dreaming Frog

These boulders are on private land and we climb here only under the good graces of the land owner. As such please be respectful to the below access issues. Land owner is Steve Raynor who can be contacted on 9642 4007.

Call after 7pm to give at least 24 hours notice before climbing. If you cant get through just leave a message saying who you are, what your best contact number is, when you're looking at climbing and how many of you there are.

Calling ahead is for climbers’ benefit. This is also a working farm, so there is also no climbing in extreme heat or in the case of fire ban. A motorbike trial riding club and shooting club also use the land, so when they’re occasionally there climbers won’t be allowed for obvious reasons. If you fail to clear camping or climbing here with Steve ahead of your visit, you may get shot by stray hunting rifles!

Parking on the the clear ground among the rocks is preferred. Parking on the roadside not allowed as large trucks use the road, and when two pass each way they will have to go off the road to get past. Access to the rocks is via the gate on the east side of the road just before you get to the boulders from the Brookton Highway turn off.

Park only on the bare ground, parking on or near grasses is to be avoided avoided due to fire risk in warmer months. Make sure gate is closed at all times, as sheep graze in this paddock.

As always, leave no trace in terms of rubbish and waste.

Approach

You can drive around past the cluster of trees directly ahead as you come in the gate and park closer to the boulders, or easily walk around,

Ethic inherited from Dreaming Frog

Bolting is to be kept to a minimum, no retro-bolting or drilling/chipping holds.

Routes

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Grade Route

Sit start on right hand pocket and left hand crimp. Straight up

FA: Peter Zhang, 30 Jul 2017

Start as low as you can on the slopey ledge, move up to the end of the ledge with a move left to the top.

Set by Catpass Clanky

FA: Catpass Clanky, 20 May 2017

Stand start using the flake on the right hand face. V4?

FA: Catpass Clanky, Aug 2017

Stand start compressing with high feet. Use some foot magic to top out.

Sit start compression, two obvious bumps and smearing crystals. slap up to stand - powerful frictiony goodness.

FA: Michael Taran, 15 May 2016

Up scoops, sketchy top out.

FA: Marc

Stand start, matched on obvious hold on the face.

FA: Takeki Kawamura, 11 May 2016

Stand start, matched on obvious hold on the face.

FA: Takeki Kawamura, 11 May 2016

Stand start.

FA: Takeki Kawamura, 11 May 2016

Stand start.

FA: Takeki Kawamura, 11 May 2016

Sit start hands on the plate and move up to top out.

FA: Jun Zhang, 1 Jul 2017

Tricky sit start to nice pinch and some sharp crystals, then move right through good crimps to top out,

FA: Catpass Clanky, 1 Jul 2017

Sit start on crimps, then up to cool tufa-esque feature and trend right to top out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n48nXsBcwQ&feature=youtu.be

FA: Mitch Woodward, 2017

Feels damn hard. Same start as Love handles but kind of trend left on nothing holds and slopers instead of moving right to the crimps

Sit start fridge feature, then trend right https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8n48nXsBcwQ&feature=youtu.be

Sit start on the flake on the underside, move up and over to top out.

Start on the horizontal crimps, move left to the jugs and up to the top. Sharp and painful V1/2 if you start further on the left of the sharp rail.

FA: Ian, 20 May 2017

Sit start on sharp painful rail and slap to nothing up the right side of the boulder.

Open project. Needs bolting. Could be great!

Sit start on right sidepull and left crimp, go up the obvious features and finish on a juggy edge maybe half a metre above the obvious jug pocket.

Sit start on undercling and right gaston with low feet. Trend right, finish by standing up on the big obvious jug.

FA: Tye Burrell, Aug 2017

Up thin left trending crack, escape left to easy exit. Bring micro nuts! Simul-lower off.

FA: Marc, 27 Mar 2016

Heady climbing up thin left trending crack. Bring micro nuts. Get up to big ledge then do some big moves to get up and over the obvious crack. Takes a BD 0.4 cam or smaller. Good gear available for the finish. 2BB.

FA: Marc, 15 May 2016

Some of the best moves at the crag! Ape your way up the right side of the arete near Meet the Heffalumps. Mantle with style onto the hanging slab. Slap over the final bulge and wow, that was a fun route !! Stick clip first bolt. 4FH to DBB.

FA: Kate Swain & Neil Gledhill

Start on block, head up thin crack and slab up the middle of the face. Small and micro nuts and one bolt. 1BB with trad back up.

FA: Marc, 28 Mar 2016

Up easy right side then follow ramp up left. First soloed. 1BB with trad back up, over Winter is Coming.

FA: Marc, 6 Mar 2016

Sit start with hands on either side of the tooth, moving up and to the left through crimps. Double hand match to finish.

Set by Catpass Clanky

FA: Catpass Clanky, 20 May 2017

Thin crack protected by micro nuts. 1BB with trad back up on small and medium cams.

FA: Marc, 6 Mar 2016

Needs cleaning, and maybe a bolt to protect the start.

On the boulder to the left of Platelet. Start on the jug above the roof, find the engagement-ring-sized-crystal with your toe and crank. Hard first moves, easy top-out.

FA: Mitchell Brinton, 26 Aug 2017

up obvious arete, don't fall on the tree-stump or it will ruin your day.

FA: Elliot Vercoe, 1 May 2016

Sit/stand start on left flake with bad feet, gain the rail and follow the crack to the top. Balance required. Sit start for style points.

FA: Catpass Clanky, 30 Apr 2017

Along top of low sideways boulder.

Up through the stripes onto slab finish. Nice splits move. Two bolts to 1BB.

FA: Marc, 28 Mar 2016

Use cairn to get high left foot, climb slab up to good holds on the left, then cruise up the spine to finish. Three bolts to 1BB.

FA: Marc, 20 Mar 2016

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