Site navigation

Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Description

Separated from the other two sectors by a little plain, theres a prominent rock known as the Dreaming Frog Boulder and Arete In addition to quite a few trad lines, theres also some stellar boulder problems here

Access issues inherited from Dreaming Frog

These boulders are on private land and we climb here only under the good graces of the land owner. As such please be respectful to the below access issues. Land owner is Steve Raynor who can be contacted on 9642 4007.

Call after 7pm to give at least 24 hours notice before climbing. If you cant get through just leave a message saying who you are, what your best contact number is, when you're looking at climbing and how many of you there are.

Calling ahead is for climbers’ benefit. This is also a working farm, so there is also no climbing in extreme heat or in the case of fire ban. A motorbike trial riding club and shooting club also use the land, so when they’re occasionally there climbers won’t be allowed for obvious reasons. If you fail to clear camping or climbing here with Steve ahead of your visit, you may get shot by stray hunting rifles!

Parking on the the clear ground among the rocks is preferred. Parking on the roadside not allowed as large trucks use the road, and when two pass each way they will have to go off the road to get past. Access to the rocks is via the gate on the east side of the road just before you get to the boulders from the Brookton Highway turn off.

Park only on the bare ground, parking on or near grasses is to be avoided avoided due to fire risk in warmer months. Make sure gate is closed at all times, as sheep graze in this paddock.

As always, leave no trace in terms of rubbish and waste.

Approach

Either drive over closer to it or haul your gear across. Area is to the right past the Welcome Sector as you come in the gate.

Ethic inherited from Dreaming Frog

Bolting is to be kept to a minimum, no retro-bolting or drilling/chipping holds.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

FA: Takeki Kawamura, 2016

Stand start.

FA: Takeki Kawamura, 2016

Scramble up the boulder under the obvious flake, precariously establish yourself on flake, climb protecting with small and medium cams. Beware of large loose blocks on top. 1BB over KG.

FA: Marc, 2016

Left side of the arête. Ground up style. Top out is the hardest part.

FA: Takeki Kawamura, 2016

Right side of arête to second bolt 1BB. High first bolt, bring mat, spotter, stick clip or confidence.

FA: Marc, 2016

Right side of arête to top out and 1BB. High first bolt, bring mat, spotter, stick clip or confidence.

FA: Elliot Vercoe, 2016

Up face with a variety of holds. High first bolt off bomber edges. Requires confident lead solid at grade. Two small to medium cam placements higher up, avoid the right arete for heady top out at full height. 1BB with trad back up on medium and large cams.

FA: Marc, 2016

Crux moves onto face, then pleasant climbing on giant crystals, pinches and small edges. Three bolts to 1BB.

FA: Marc, 2016

Impressive bulging offwidth, wider than a number 6 cam. Stick clip first bolt to do a hard move getting established. No offwidth technique required, you can layback the whole way! Two bolts to 1BB with trad back up.

FA: Marc, 2016

Stick clip to protect hard start move getting onto the wall. Use your head, no crystal fingering required! Fun moves over the overlap. Three bolts to 2BB.

FA: Marc, 2016

Get right in and chimney up! Feels pretty safe and secure to the top. Two grades have been added for the solo factor, but it's pretty narrow so you're not really falling anywhere. Start is quite the squeeze - you can't turn your head in a helmet. 2BB.

FA: Gwyn Hughes & Marc, 2016

Sit start low, using opposing side pulls.

Set by Ian, 2017

FA: Ian, 2017

Up left trending crack with small cams, onto big ledge, then up face on one bolt to 2BB.

FA: Marc, 2016

Right of First Harvest, starting at the detached pinnacle. Chimney up inside the detached pinnacle then wobble across to a rest. Place gear in the crack(s) to the left and above with care and good balance. Requires small cams and finesse. Then either blast up the cracks direct, where placing a crucial blue alien is the crux (23+). Punch out a few glory laybacks to the summit and DBB.

FA: Kate Swain & Neil Gledhill, 2016

Right of First Harvest, starting at the detached pinnacle. Chimney up inside the detached pinnacle then wobble across to a rest. Place gear in the crack(s) to the left and above with care and good balance. Requires small cams and finesse. Traverse right to stand on top of the pinnacle where you can just reach the break which allows you to go back left where the direct joins. Punch out a few glory laybacks to the summit and DBB.

FA: Kate Swain & Neil Gledhill, 2016

Up right trending crack with small cams, onto big ledge, then up face on one bolt to 2BB.

FA: Marc & Ben, 2016

Sit start on small pockets to the far right of the cave, climb through slopey scoops to crazy top-out.

Set by Gwyn Hughes, 2016

FA: Ellliot Vercoe, 2016

Variation route to avoid touching the neighboring rock (Lateral Canthus)

FA: Takeki Kawamura, 2016

Sit start on obvious jug, straight up.

FA: Michael Taran, 2016

Activity

Check out what is happening in Dreaming Frog Sector.