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Summary

Dense collection of granite boulders up to 15m high. Solid collection of trad and sport routes with huge bouldering potential also.

Description

--- Additional Bolting ---

Steve the landowner has aired concern about additional bolting here, mainly due to aesthetics. It may still be fine but better to air on the side of caution to maintain the good relationship. Speak to him to discuss before placing bolts, and maybe offer to meet him there to show him what you're planning if that's of interest to him. I have a feeling carrots may also be more palatable to him. His contact details are in the Access section.

--- Note on Bolts ---

Original bolts used at this crag were 75mm x 10mm stainless steel Dynabolts, which may take a fall load of up to 9kN, so will still be suitable for most falls likely at the crag but please use your own judgement before climbing on them, and observe good belay technique. All double bolt belays have at at least one 10mm Trubolt in the mix, which should be good to up to 16kN. More information available in the thread here: http://www.climberswa.asn.au/topic/new-crag-dreaming-frog-rock/

--- Description of Area ---

Dense collection of granite boulders up to 15m high. Solid collection of trad and sport routes with huge bouldering potential also.

Access issues

These boulders are on private land and we climb here only under the good graces of the land owner. As such please be respectful to the below access issues. Land owner is Steve Raynor who can be contacted on 9642 4007.

Call after 7pm to give at least 24 hours notice before climbing. If you cant get through just leave a message saying who you are, what your best contact number is, when you're looking at climbing and how many of you there are.

Calling ahead is for climbers’ benefit. This is also a working farm, so there is also no climbing in extreme heat or in the case of fire ban. A motorbike trial riding club and shooting club also use the land, so when they’re occasionally there climbers won’t be allowed for obvious reasons. If you fail to clear camping or climbing here with Steve ahead of your visit, you may get shot by stray hunting rifles!

Parking on the the clear ground among the rocks is preferred. Parking on the roadside not allowed as large trucks use the road, and when two pass each way they will have to go off the road to get past. Access to the rocks is via the gate on the east side of the road just before you get to the boulders from the Brookton Highway turn off.

Park only on the bare ground, parking on or near grasses is to be avoided avoided due to fire risk in warmer months. Make sure gate is closed at all times, as sheep graze in this paddock.

As always, leave no trace in terms of rubbish and waste.

Approach

PLEASE READ ACCESS ISSUES

Only an hour and twenty minutes from Perth city centre.

Find your way onto the Brookton Highway, then travel 80km from the BP service station in Roleystone. Turn right on the York Williams Road and you'll see the crag spring up on you on the left after about 3km. The gate is on the left, immediately before the rocks.

There is zero walk in, so getting to this crag will be similar in time as to getting to many Perth crags.

There are no service stations between Roleystone and Brookton. There is basically no phone service at the crag.

Where to stay

PLEASE READ ACCESS ISSUES

If you clear it with Steve first camping among the rocks is allowed, and it makes for great scenic camping in the cooler months when the rolling hills are green and lush, the air is cool, and skies are blue.

You can also light a fire using the huge quantity of deadwood around the rocks.

Please clear either of these activities with Steve first via his contact in the 'Access' section. Be respectful. Be safe. If you fail to clear camping or climbing here with Steve ahead of your visit, you may get shot by stray hunting rifles!

Ethic

Bolting is to be kept to a minimum, no retro-bolting or drilling/chipping holds.

History

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Crag was discovered by Marc Papain who was travelling for work in the area. Development started over three months from February - April 2016, with 15 easy and moderate routes established. Many hours and days of scrubbing were required due to the huge amounts of moss which were in abundance on most rocks. But this revealed good hard granite beneath and some great lines.

As of May 2016, there is still a huge untapped bouldering potential, numerous easy routes still possible, some moderate routes still possible, and a handful of stellar hard lines possible in the 25+ grade area.

Activity

Check out what is happening in Dreaming Frog.