A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Mikie Bob Brynn Clayton Tom Brendan Heywood Ash Burton-Smith Mattias Braach-Maksvytis Captain Ruin senri Dan Wiktor
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Wilson's Promontory / The Prom
240 in Crag
-
1.1.
Tongue Point 22 in Area
- 1.1.1. Cleopatras Zawn 2 in Area
- 1.1.2. Causeway Area 2 in Area
- 1.1.3. Sea Dream Zawn 7 in Area
- 1.1.4. Fang Cove 9 in Area
- 1.1.5. Neptunes Thumb 2 in Area
-
1.2.
Whiskey Bay 36 in Crag
-
1.2.1.
North Whiskey 1 in Field
- 1.2.1.1. Ardmore Boulder 1 in Boulder
-
1.2.2.
South Whiskey 35 in Field
- 1.2.2.1. Keep Walking Boulder 8 in Boulder
- 1.2.2.2. Chivas Regal Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.2.2.3. Ardberg Boulder 3 in Boulder
- 1.2.2.4. Neat Boulder 5 in Boulder
- 1.2.2.5. Lagavulin 6 in Boulder
- 1.2.2.6. Pebbly Debbly Boulder 4 in Boulder
- 1.2.2.7. Bourbon 1 in Boulder
- 1.2.2.8. Cracker Boulder 2 in Boulder
- 1.2.2.9. The Kiddies Pool 1 in Boulder
- 1.2.2.10. Suntory 1 in Boulder
- 1.2.2.11. Cocktail Party 1 in Cliff
-
1.2.1.
North Whiskey 1 in Field
-
1.3.
Squeaky Beach 43 in Area
- 1.3.1. The Slaughterhouse 4 in Boulder
-
1.4.
Mt Bishop 14 in Unknown
- 1.4.1. Elephant Rock 8 in Area
- 1.4.2. Mt Bishop Slabs 6 in Area
- 1.4.3. Mt Bishop Wall 0 in Area
-
1.5.
Turtle Rock 5 in Area
- 1.5.1. Backpackers Boulders 2 in Crag
- 1.5.2. Tidal Overlook Slabs 0 in Crag
-
1.6.
Mt Oberon 49 in Area
- 1.6.1. North Oberon 2 in Crag
- 1.6.2. East Oberon 0 in Area
-
1.6.3.
Summit Area / Summit Wall 7 in Cliff
- 1.6.3.1. Left Side 2 in Sector
- 1.6.3.2. Right Side 5 in Sector
- 1.6.4. Communication Dome / Panorama Wall 3 in Crag
- 1.6.5. Summit South Wall / Legend Point 1 in Cliff
-
1.6.6.
Diosa Sector 1 in Sector
- 1.6.6.1. Summit Cluster 0 in Crag
- 1.6.6.2. Tranquil Walls 0 in Cliff
- 1.6.6.3. Summit Rocks 1 in Crag
- 1.6.7. Atmospheric Slabs 0 in Crag
- 1.6.8. West Oberon 0 in Area
- 1.6.9. Shattered Dome 22 in Crag
- 1.6.10. Bay Amphitheatre 4 in Crag
-
1.7.
Little Oberon 45 in Area
- 1.7.1. Lone Pillars 0 in Area
-
1.7.2.
South Norman Beach Boulders 10 in Crag
- 1.7.2.1. Bumpy Boulders 5 in Area
- 1.7.2.2. Warmup slab area 5 in Area
- 1.7.3. 'The Pocket' Alcove 1 in Area
- 1.7.4. Quarter Dome 9 in Area
- 1.7.5. Surf-Side Slabs 0 in Crag
-
1.7.6.
Eagle Slabs 0 in Crag
- 1.7.6.1. Main Cliff 0 in Cliff
- 1.7.6.2. Lower Cliff 0 in Cliff
- 1.7.7. Trackside Wall 4 in Area
- 1.7.8. Little Oberon Slabs 21 in Area
- 1.7.9. The Outpost 0 in Area
-
1.8.
Tidal River 5 in Unknown
- 1.8.1. The Chimney 5 in Artificial
- 1.8.2. Whale Rock 0 in Unknown
- 1.8.3. Tidal River Boulders 0 in Unknown
- 1.9. Vanishing Wall 0 in Crag
- 1.10. Mt Wilson 2 in Area
- 1.11. Easter Island Heads 0 in Field
- 1.12. Lighthouse Area 3 in Area
-
1.13.
Islands 2 in Area
- 1.13.1. Skullrock / Cleft Island 2 in Area
- 1.13.2. Norman Island 0 in Crag
- 1.14. The Treacherous Coast 14 in Crag
-
1.1.
Tongue Point 22 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Wilson's Promontory 240 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Bouldering, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: -38.970339, 146.359161
- Be friendly and respectful to other park users, and especially to any Park Rangers
- Please respect camping and no-fire rules
- NO BOLTS - Bolting is prohibited within Wilsons Prom
- Brush ticks
- Keep all off-track activities to a minimum
- Chipping holds or marking the start of climbs is prohibited
- 'Gardening' is prohibited (removal or damage to vegetation on climbs)
- Access the cliffs using existing paths and if appropriate descend by abseil rather than scrambling
summary
Wilson's Promontory Marine National Park is an excellent travel destination with access to sandy beaches, clear blue water, and beautiful mountains in an idyllic setting.
description
Wilson's Promontory Marine National Park is located on the southern-most tip of the Australian mainland. It is a world-class conservation area with over 3,000 native animals and plants. As such, climbers should take the utmost care to prevent damage to the flora and fauna.
Most of the climbing is trad or bouldering and it is a fantastic spot to spend the weekend with your climbing buddies. There are excellent facilities at Tidal River consisting of toilets, hot showers, and a convenience store that serves coffee.
Various accommodation options exist inside the Prom ranging from basic camping to expensive lodges. Prices vary throughout the year with summer being peak season.
Some highlight activities include: going to the beach, surfing, fishing, kayaking, day and overnight hiking, and photography, and/or taking a tour of skull island.
Mobile reception quality varies throughout the region. Be mindful if going into uncharted territory and/or locations where rescue might be limited.
access issues
A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:
-Mt Bishop
-Elephant Rock
-Mt Oberon
-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)
-Turtle Rock.
There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.
approach
Refer to individual crags to see access information.
where to stay
Camping at Tidal River is the best option. There are hot showers and toilets. Campsites can be booked on the ParksVic website. Summer is peak season but clears out in off season.
https://bookings.parks.vic.gov.au/tidal-river-campground#/accom/33314
Several paid options available outside of the park. Generally expensive during holiday periods.
The closest free overnight parking is at the BP Truck Stop in Fish Creek (~20 minutes to Wilsons Prom entrance). This place can accommodate cars/vans/trucks, but locals are unlikely to be happy with people setting tents. Please arrive late and leave early if staying here to minimize problems with locals.
ethic
UPDATED 2024: Projects will remain closed for one year from the date of upload. If not completed after one year, the route is open for others to attempt.
|
1.1. Tongue Point 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -38.993798, 146.259594
1.1.1. Cleopatras Zawn 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Chocolate Reaction | 18 | 10m | |||
2 | In the Nude | 12 | 10m |
1.1.2. Causeway Area 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Causeway Corner | 18 | 14m | |||
2 | Causeway Flake | 14 | 12m |
1.1.3. Sea Dream Zawn 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Take One | 12 | 12m | |||
2 | Take Two | 10 | 10m | |||
3 | Take Three | 10 | 8m | |||
4 | Take Four | 3 | 8m | |||
5 | Take Five | 12 | 25m | |||
6 | Excapism | 16 | 20m | |||
7 | The Corridor of Uncertainity | 15 | 30m |
1.1.4. Fang Cove 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Down to the Waterline | 13 | 25m | |||
2 | Back on the Borderline | 22 | 25m | |||
3 | Dire Strait | 17 | 25m | |||
4 | Shark Attack | 18 | 25m | |||
5 | Sea Spray | 10 | 25m | |||
6 | The Happy Hooker | 22 | 20m | |||
7 | Dancing in Giraffe | 21 | 20m | |||
8 | Stormy Monday | 21 | 25m | |||
9 | Rites of Passage | 22 M1 | 25m |
1.1.5. Neptunes Thumb 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sea Nymph | 16 | 13m | |||
2 | Crab Attack | 17 | 13m |
1.2. Whiskey Bay 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.012355, 146.289817
summary
Bouldering at Whiskey Bay! A beautiful spot to be close to the beach and sea. Some decent routes and much quieter than Squeaky Beach. Best in low tide as more boulders are accessible.
description
A variety of boulders, ranging from safe and low, to some rather large highballs. Most of the landings are soft and sandy, meaning some bouldering can be completed without a mat. Of course, a mat is always recommended regardless.
This is a child-friendly zone.
approach
Follow the track to the beach from the Whiskey Bay car park. Once at the beach, head left to the boulders. It is approximately a 5-10 minute walk.
history
Like Squeaky Beach, the boulders were listed in the Eastern District Guidebook. Almost everything will have been already climbed over the many decades, therefore almost all newly listed problems will be First Recorded Ascents and not First Ascents.
1.2.1. North Whiskey 1 route in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.011270, 146.289257
description
Boulders on the northern section of Whiskey Bay. Some potentials routes closer to the water may provide a wet feet start at high tide.
approach
Head north on the beach.
1.2.1.1. Ardmore Boulder 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
Overhung boulder seated above others.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Golden Eagle
Hands only problem on granite slopers moving from left to right. FFA: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 | V3 | 3m |
1.2.2. South Whiskey 35 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.013386, 146.290360
description
The maze of boulders at the south of the beach. Many of the climbs have obvious holds, good landings, and is suitable for beginners. It is a scenic destination with many people around so please be respectful to other park users and rangers.
The best time to go is during low tide as a number of problems will be underwater otherwise.
approach
From Whiskey Bay carpark, follow the walking track to the beach for approximately 400 metres. The boulders are immediately on your left as you enter the beach.
1.2.2.1. Keep Walking Boulder 8 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.013518, 146.291021
description
A smaller boulder with an interesting crack and some potential overhung routes.
approach
The leftmost boulder of the field when viewing the area from Whiskey Bay beach.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Drunk and Alone
Behind the boulder. Sit-start matched laybacking off rail and punch up for the jug. FA: Jamie, 24 Jan 2021 | V0 | 2m | |||||
2 |
Johnny Black
Open Project. Sit start. Up overhung black streak on small holds. Set: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 | V4 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ Rare and Exceptional
Sit start. Tricky moves off the deck as you head up overhanging crack | V3 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★ Just Coke
Sit start. Up face between left arete and crack line on face. FFA: amelie, 23 Feb 2017 | V0 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★ Johnny and Coke
Sit start. Easily up left leaning diagonal crack on face. FFA: amelie, 23 Feb 2017 | V0 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Striding Man Society
Sit start. Use triangular flake to mantle up onto slab. Stride on up. FFA: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 | V1 | 3m | |||||
7 |
Societal Intoxication
The small rounded arete. Stand-start and up. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021 | V0 | 3m | |||||
8 |
★★ The Inebriated Climber
An easy traverse but a tad contrived. Sit-start and move right past a few slopers. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021 | V1 | 4m |
1.2.2.2. Chivas Regal Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.013267, 146.290591
description
Large grey boulder, with slab routes on the beach side. You may get wet feet at high tide.
Descent is by scrambling down path of least resistance onto a smaller boulder.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Smooth Blend
Stand start. Up pocket to the right of the arete, up to small crack. Definite highball so don't fall. FFA: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 | V1 | 6m | |||||
2 |
★★ Chivas Centre
Climb centre line of the slab, just right of Smooth Blend | V1 | 6m | |||||
3 |
★★ Chivas Right
Start just left of right arete, climb through the vague pockets to a delicate exit. | V2 | 6m |
1.2.2.3. Ardberg Boulder 3 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.013370, 146.290662
description
One of the larger boulders one the edge of the sand. Capped in orange "algae" with a large left lean crack dissecting the back of the boulder. The fused pieces of rock make for amazing hand holds.
This boulder may occasionally be covered by sand at the bottom. It may not be climbable at times. If the lower flake is not visible, it is not climbable.
approach
Head to South Whiskey Boulders. It is almost impossible to describe which boulder it is in this maze so match the topo. The boulder is one of the closer to the edge of the field (beach side).
Descent is down the least steep area, using the awesome rocks fused into the granite.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Scotch on the Rocks
Sit start off the rock, using the large left leaning diagonal crack. Up wall through interesting crimps and onto bomber jugs at top. FFA: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 | V2 | 5m | |||||
2 |
★★ Heavily Peated
Sit start from wet sand. Tricky mantle onto ground flake and up. Set: Mikie Bob, 23 Feb 2017 FA: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 | V3 | 5m | |||||
3 |
★ Heavily Peated Scotch on the Rocks
Follow the crack. SDS as for Heavily Peated. Stand and traverse leftward following the diagonal left leaning line. No using jugs at top until you are fully on the slab. FA: Jamie, 24 Jan 2021 | V2 | 3m | |||||
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1.2.2.4. Neat Boulder 5 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.013385, 146.290495
description
A larger boulder within the maze.
approach
Navigate through the field and match up the topo.
Descent is scrambling down path of least resistance down to smaller boulder.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Straight Up
Stand start. Up rounded arete. Watch out for the rocks below, a spotter may help! FFA: amelie, 23 Feb 2017 | V2 | 5m | |||||
2 |
★ Just a Nip
On the south side of the boulder opposite Straight Up. Stand start matched on basalt rail. Top out to left via high foot and jugs. Set: Tom, 31 Dec 2019 | V1 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★★ A Wee Dram
Start as for 'Just a Nip' matched on basalt rail, following pinchy holds out to the right. Set: Tom, 31 Dec 2019 | V3 | 4m | |||||
4 |
Brandy Snifter
Match start to the right of 'A Wee Dram'. Traverse around left into 'Just a Nip'. FA: John AO, 1 Jan | V2 | ||||||
5 |
Two fingers
Balancy start left of 'Just a Nip' with right hand in nice undercling slot and left hand on faint crimp . Bang up to jug hold and top out directly above. Set: Tom, 31 Dec 2019 | V2 | 4m |
1.2.2.5. Lagavulin 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.013458, 146.290527
description
A low flat boulder in the field with a small overhung roof section.
approach
Between Neat and Pebbly Debbly
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Navigating Through Murky Waters
SDS on far left of the boulder on nice jug rail with feet underneath. Pull off the ground and mantel. FA: Jamie, 24 Jan 2021 | V2 | 2m | |||||
2 |
★★ The Monster in the Sea
A leftward technical traverse on great holds. SDS with one hand on jug of "Old Fashioned" and the other hand on the 3-finger low pocket. Finish up on the far left of the boulder. The full problem (open project) starts low in the overhang on two 3-finger pockets and busts out to the lip before continuing the traverse. Would likely go. FA: Jamie, 24 Jan 2021 | V4 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ Alien Potatoes
A beginner's dream. SDS on the two alien looking potato holds and head directly up using the sidepull on the right. FA: Jamie, 24 Jan 2021 | V0 | 2m | |||||
4 |
★ Old Fashioned
Start matched on jug on edge of overhang and do a fun one-move punch to the jug and mantle. Bat hang start for fun / style points. Set: Tom, 31 Dec 2019 | V1 | 2m | |||||
5 |
Slippery Beginnings
Rounded slab opposite the Lagavulin boulder. Stand-start easily but mantel difficulty. FA: Jamie Ung, 24 Jan 2021 | V0 | 2m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
The Backside of the Whale
A nice technical traverse which is immediately on your left as you can see the Lagavulin boulder. Stand-start as far right as possible. Traverse leftward using slopers and crimps before reaching the jugs. Avoid the good lip until the mantel. FA: Jamie Ung, 24 Jan 2021 | V2 | 3m |
1.2.2.6. Pebbly Debbly Boulder 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.013487, 146.290418
description
A low tide boulder only with two lines on the right as you approach from the beach, and two lines on the back of the boulder.
approach
About 10 -15 metres further around from neat boulder towards the headland.
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Squarking Seagulls
Sit start with hands in the bottom of crack. Follow crack/ flake to the top Set: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 FA: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 | V0 | 4m | |||||
2 |
★★ Razor Jammin
Sit start matched on large pebble at bottom of the crack. Follow line of crack up to top out. V4 or V5. Jamming not recommended! Set: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 | V4 | 4m | |||||
3 |
★ Risky Whiskey
Start with right hand in the scoop and left on the flake then continue up and to the right, going over the bulge above the scoop to top out. No clear landing spots below but good holds all the way up. FA: Captain Ruin, 19 Jun 2021 | V1 | 4m | |||||
4 |
★★ Chunky Spew
Sit start with hands on flake then reach up for chunky bits and hurl on up. FA: Captain Ruin, 19 Jun 2021 | V0 | 3m |
1.2.2.7. Bourbon 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.013541, 146.290440
description
A quite smooth-looking boulder with a slight forward lean.
approach
Just to the left when standing at the beachside face of the Pebby Debbly Boulder. Descent - easy climb down backside.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Maker's Mark
Jump to obvious jug to start. Work up the feature, gentle feet. FA: John AO, 3 Jan | V2 |
1.2.2.8. Cracker Boulder 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.013458, 146.290304
description
Amazing boulder with a fun crack line, bottom low tide only or else you'll get wet feet.
approach
If you are at Pebbly Debbly boulder, look left its right there
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Berty In Tow
Sit start at the large pocket. Climb the subtle arete. Nice slabbing! FA: Spencer Lindsay, Feb 2023 | V2 | 4m | |||||
2 |
★ Crackadacker
Sit Start at bottom of crack. Pull your way up crack while staying balanced. Holds on the face are in. Set: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 FA: Ash Burton-Smith, 17 Oct 2017 | V1 | 4m |
1.2.2.9. The Kiddies Pool 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.013245, 146.290772
description
A large boulder with some midway crimps for potential slab routes
approach
The largest rightmost boulder when first approaching the boulder field
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Hell or High Water
Feet might get wet starting. Climb to the first crimps left of the centre line, then traverse across to the impression in the boulder. Climb upwards from here, topping out at the partial jug. FFA: Harry B, 29 Aug 2022 | V2 | 7m |
1.2.2.10. Suntory 1 route in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
Small squashed looking boulder with obvious jug features. Great for warm up.
approach
On the right of the Cracker Boulder.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
For Relaxing Times
Start matched on small pinches and move up through big safe holds avoiding huge basalt ledge on left. FA: Hannah Stewart, 31 Dec 2019 | V0 | 2m |
1.2.2.11. Cocktail Party 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.013614, 146.290316
description
Reach a small sandy area surrounded by tall rocks.
approach
Head towards Pebbly Debbley and walk into a narrow cave-like section between boulders (entered across from Razor Jammin). Reach a small hidden beach.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Gulls on Sazerac
Start at the triangular base and work up its two sides. Top out at the end of the main crack. FA: senri | V2 |
1.3. Squeaky Beach 43 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.023040, 146.302092
summary
Bouldering at Squeaky Beach! An excellent location with soft sandy landings and a wonderful view. However, beware the hordes of tourists who congregate in the boulders.
approach
Park at Squeaky Beach carpark and follow the meandering trail down to the beach. Boulders are immediately ahead of you as you enter the beach. Approximately 5-10 minute walk.
This is a child-friendly zone.
history
Squeaky Beach is a popular bouldering spot and has been for many decades. The Eastern Victoria Guide only listed the more obvious lines even though every inch has been climbed over the years.
Therefore most newly recorded lines will be First Recorded Ascents not First Ascents.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
2 | ★★ Squeak Crack | 12 | 8m | |||||
3 | Bitch Boys | 23 | ||||||
4 | ★★ Trips In The Dark | 15 | 3m | |||||
5 | ★ Squeaky Corner | 14 | 10m | |||||
6 |
★★ Squeaky Mouse
Step across creek as for Just the tip. Move up and left to juggy holds 4 to 5 metres up. Set: Michael Salt, 2013 FFA: Michael Salt, 2013 | 17 | 7m | |||||
7 |
Slice of Paradise
Start on the decent juggy crimp on the lip and move up and right along the lip, topping out on the Apex of the boulder. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022 | V4 | ||||||
8 |
★★ Just the Tip
Step across creek onto small foothold. Straight up using small crimps avoiding jugs on the left and Frontal Lobotomy to the right FFA: Michael Salt, 2013 Set: Michael Salt, 2013 | 20 | 7m | |||||
9 | ★ Frontal Lobotomy | 17 | 7m | |||||
10 |
★★ Squeaky Stairs to Heaven
Kneel start on low flake/foothold, climb up nice pinch holds, avoid left flake as it is a bit hollow sounding. FA: Cody Gillmeister, 22 Nov 2020 | V3 | 5m | |||||
11 | ★ Squeaky Clean | 10 | 5m | |||||
12 |
★ Bubble & Squeak
If facing 'Squeak Crack', heads up the back of the boulder on your right. Sit start low on flake, climb enormous jugs. Has almost certainly been done before, name made up for recording. | V0 | 2m | |||||
13 |
★ Tourist Entertainment
Short but steep overhang. Start seated (or crouched if short) with 1 hand on the lip and one hand on the sidepull/undercling. Punch up, traverse right onto good holds and mantel. Harder sit project is available. Start two hands on sidepull/undercling. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021 | V0 | 2m | |||||
14 |
Potato Power
Sit Start matched in the leftward-facing juggy hole in the middle of the overhang. Punch up to the lip and mantle. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022 | V4 | ||||||
15 |
★★ The pocket of Squeak
Sit-Start holding the pocket on the left and pebble on the right as for Squeak My Nipples. Move to protruding good hold then move left on small holds and onto left side face using small crimp. from here big move up to pocket with left and finish. Arete is out below final pocket. FA: Dave C, 31 Dec 2018 | {FR} V5 | ||||||
16 |
★ Squeak My Nipples
Sit-Start holding the pocket on the left and pebble on the right. FA: Hiro Nishikawa, 8 Feb 2015 | V3 | 3m | |||||
17 |
★ Squeak Traverse
FA: Hiro Nishikawa, 8 Feb 2015 | V4 | 2m | |||||
18 |
★ Space Cadets
Flying dyno onto top FA: Grant, 31 Mar 2016 | 21 | 4m | |||||
19 |
★ Squeaking Mildly
Located on a large boulder on the South-East end of the beach, with an obvious seam. Start up the flake/seam (crux) onto a slab, then up the seam above (easier on the left). Most likely a repeat. | 16 | 7m | |||||
20 |
Lost in Squeaks
Located on a large boulder on the South-East end of the beach, with an obvious seam. Start off the block to the left of the seam, trend up and right(crossing the seam) to slabby topout. Probably a repeat. | 14 | 7m | |||||
21 |
★ Squeaky This Mantle
Fun Mantle. sit start on good holds in the middle of the boulder. pull up and mantle over. FA: Dave C & Tom Hodges, 31 Dec 2018 | {FR} V1 | ||||||
22 |
★ Revolution Xenon
Sit start with hands on the bottom edge. Go up to crack and incut next to the crack before topping out to the right. FA: Oscar Kearsley, 10 Apr 2021 | V1 | 3m | |||||
23 |
The Trapped Mouse
SDS as for Mouse Trap. Traverse diagonally left making sure to use the slopers before heading to the slot. From the slot, move further left to an easy top out. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021 | V0 | 3m | |||||
24 | ★ Mouse Trap | V0 | 3m | |||||
25 |
★★ Slaughterfish
Nice moves on obvious holds. Start standing on the lowest rail and move rightward on jugs then bust out for the great sidepull. Mantel from here. An extension can be done which involves another big move to a sharp pocket. Probably goes at a slightly harder grade. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021 | V3 | 3m | |||||
26 |
★★ Sharkfin
An interesting and somewhat desperate mantel. Start standing with hands matched on the lowest part of the juggy hold. Find a way to mantel. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021 | V2 | 2m | |||||
27 |
Upstaged by the Pistol-Wielding Squid
How could you realistically compete? Start as for "Slaughterfish" but move directly up. FA: Jamie, 14 Jan 2021 | V0 | 2m | |||||
28 |
Captured by Pirate Dolphins
The treachery of the sea is evergrowing... On the back of the "Slaughterfish" boulder, stand-start with hands matched on the lowest rail. Bust up and over. Might be wet in high tide / high swell. FA: Jamie, 25 Jan 2021 | V1 | ||||||
29 |
★★★ Blowhole
Start with left hand in pocket and right in crimp slot. Blocks below main face are out. May be wet in high tide. FA: Wiktor, 28 Dec | V3 | ||||||
30 | ★ Levitation | 14 | ||||||
31 |
Megalodon
Start matched on the low undercling at the lowest point on the boulder. Move up to the lip and traverse the lip rightwards until topping out on the highest corner (traverse 3 sides of the boulder). FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022 | V6 | ||||||
32 |
★★ Hug Me Tenderly
Slab Highball - RH on the Upward facing knob (LH any available hold) and smear feet to start. Head straight up and top out - be wary as good holds become scarce towards the top. FA: Brett, 30 Dec 2018 | V2 | 6m | |||||
33 |
★ For the Boysh
Step on obvious pebbles heading out left towards arete then up. FA: Adrian Yeet, 12 Feb 2022 | V0 | 7m | |||||
34 |
★ Yung Rich Nation / YRN
An alright line. Good view | 13 | 7m | |||||
35 |
★ Squeak and flop
Start low in the crack matched, shimmy up, balance move to the right, with reaching pull on sloppers then slow top out FA: Nic jones, 6 May 2018 | V5 | 3m | |||||
36 |
★★ Wingspan
Start with left hand on arete pinch and right on choice of pebble ~2 meters up the boulder. Find your balance then traverse left and up the arete. FA: Wiktor, 28 Dec | V3 | ||||||
37 |
★★ Agatha
Sit start on the arete. High left hand on the sloper with right hand crimp. Go straight up. Bailing to the juggy cave to the right makes it bit easier. FA: Jakub Juchum, 7 Apr 2019 | V3 | 5m | |||||
38 |
★★ Big Red
LH starting on the decent RH of Hug me. Stand start and go straight up FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022 | V3 | ||||||
39 |
Allspice
Start as for Big Red. Traverse right and go up using better holds. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022 | V3 | ||||||
40 |
Warm Sun
Sit start. Head straight up the blunt arete. FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, Jan 2022 | V0 | ||||||
|
1.3.1. The Slaughterhouse 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Chicken Heads | 5 | 4m | |||||
2 | The Guillotine | 8 | 4m | |||||
3 | ★ The Slaughterhouse Traverse | 11 | 6m | |||||
4 |
★ Running Laps
Circles the boulder endlessly | 12 | 10m |
1.4. Mt Bishop 14 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.017221, 146.320135
|
1.4.1. Elephant Rock 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.015954, 146.319774
description
A large feature sporting some semi-decent granite. Warning: Only descent is via a fixed piece at the top backed up by an old tat threader. The tree is now dead and unreliable. Anchor choices are sparse at the tope. Consider a long cordelette (or better yet a static rope) to sling the huge boulder.
access issues
Make sure to get your permit to climb and walk off trail at the parks office before you intend to visit Wilson's Prom.
approach
Take a right to follow a climbers trail Just before the rocky area at the summit of Mt Bishop. A wooden seat is a good marker for when to turn off the main track. You'll see whale rock which is best accessed by scrambled down the right side. The short crack as you approach is Plankton (9) which you rap down to get off the top.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Plankton
The descent route. Short thin crack that you see on approach. FA: J Grandage, R Pauligk & R Taylor, 1966 | 9 | 6m | |||||
2 |
Ambergris
FA: J Grandage, R Pauligk & R Taylor, 1966 | 6 | 18m | |||||
3 |
★ Ambergris Variant Finish
FA: R Pauligk, J Grandage & R Taylor, 1966 | 12 | 6m | |||||
4 |
Dicky Bark Dwyll
FA: K Mollison & B Every, 1975 | 14 | 30m | |||||
5 |
★ Batten The Hatches
Take giant rock ramp up to the ledge (unprotected). Can stay independent of DBD by using the R most runnel before gaining the horizontal and traverse. FA: Glenn Tempest, 1978 | 14 | 35m | |||||
6 |
★ Spermwhale Jaw
Follow the jaw line L of Cachalot up. FA: R Taylor, J Grandage, R & R Pauligk, 1966 | 8 | 30m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★★★ Cachalot
Starts at the rusty carrot to follow an excellent flake all the way up. Can be accessed by rap or from the unprotected start of SJ. FA: P Treby & G Fitzgerald, 1969 FFA: Glenn Tempest, 1977 | 21 | 30m, 1 | |||||
8 |
One Out
FA: K Egerton & I Sedgman, 1976 | 14 | 10m |
1.4.2. Mt Bishop Slabs 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -39.016478, 146.318186
approach
Make your way to 'Elephant Rock'. Faint trail down to the slabs in front of 'Cachalot'. Can rap in via the anchors on 'Flamingo' (50m, one rusty carrot, one rusty FH, one new FH) or walk down and to the left (facing downhill).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Within Reach
FA: Glenn Tempest, R Smith & E Jones, 1983 | 19 | 50m, 1 | |||||
2 |
★ Adrift
No protection! FA: K Lindorff, Glenn Tempest, E Jones & G Jones, 1983 | 19 X | 50m | |||||
3 |
★ Grasping At Straws
FA: K Lindorff, R Smith & Glenn Tempest, 1983 | 21 | 45m, 2 | |||||
4 |
★ High And Dry
FA: Glenn Tempest, G Butcher & G Hoxley, 1983 | 21 | 45m, 1 | |||||
5 |
★★ Flamingo
Belay off 2 FH + 1 BR. FA: Glenn Tempest, D McLean & G Hoxley, 1983 | 21 | 45m, 4 | |||||
6 |
Superslab
FA: I Sedgman & S Abbott, 1978 | 6 | 200m, 4 | |||||
|
1.4.3. Mt Bishop Wall 0 routes in Area
|
1.5. Turtle Rock 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Top roping and Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.024693, 146.318883
summary
This is not a major rock climbing destination apart from a gnarly traverse. Very popular with abseilers though.
description
Turtle rock is a very blank, hard, vertical slab. Wall routes have no protection. There are roof cracks on the very right of the cliff (has not yet been climbed). PLEASE WEAR A HELMET, there is much loose rock that is very fragile and that breaks off. Try not to break holds on the routes!
access issues
The Tidal Overlook track is followed from the Lilly Pilly Gully car park to Turtle Rock
approach
Park at Mt Bishop car park. Cross the road and follow the Tidal Overlook circuit. Follow right track when you get to fork. Continue up track until you reach the cliffline. Access to the top of cliff is by following the track until T intersection in track and going left to boulders and the top of Turtle Rock.
ethic
Please be aware when climbing on the main face of the cliff. A very popular tourist track runs below the cliffline. Try not to drop rocks and ropes on their heads!
history
First route ever done was only on 25/01/2015. Many new routes are waiting to be completed
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3 |
Mutant Ninja
Starts near dead tree, below small bulge. Climbs under bulge then to the left, above it, and on up. Rock is very fragile, wear a helmet! Could be harder than 30?! Set: Grant, Luke Baxter & Stephen Baxter, 25 Jan 2015 | 30 | 25m | |||||
4 |
★ Teenaged Turtle
Climbs to the top of bulge on 'Mutant Ninja'. Nice moves! FA: Grant, Luke Baxter & Stephen Baxter, 25 Jan 2015 | 24 - 26 | 7m | |||||
5 |
Turtle Rock Girdle Traverse
Traverse of the wall. However, the crack is so big you can squeeze into it and into the 'cave' inside. |
1.5.1. Backpackers Boulders 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.024698, 146.318610
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Stranger Danger
Follow the gully (with 2 trees for belay on "Turtle Rock") and through bushes. Turn immediately left and you'll find a major overhung crack. Climb this! Set: Grant & Luke Baxter | V3 | 4m | |||
2 |
★ Ranger Danger
Trad version of "Stranger Danger". After first overhung vertical crack, follow small line up diagonally right on small gear. Micro cams and small wires are particularly useful! | 24 | 7m |
1.5.2. Tidal Overlook Slabs 0 routes in Crag
1.6. Mt Oberon 49 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing
Lat / Long: -39.039417, 146.342930
description
Home of exposure. Even if the route is actually quite short, just take a good look behind you; over 500m of air below!
access issues
Access to some of these cliffs requires a lot of abseiling and bush-bashing. It is strongly advised against going to these cliffs. Please stay on cliffs close to the summit of 'Mt Oberon', due to the fact that bush-bashing is frowned upon by Parks Victoria.
approach
Follow the Mt Oberon Summit Track. This will lead you to where most routes are located
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
6 |
Delilah
FA: I Sedgman, K Egerton, C Housten & C Houston, 1976 | 8 | 55m, 2 | |||||
7 |
Deceit
FA: I Sedgman & M Marsh, 1974 | 6 | 50m | |||||
8 |
Dancing
FA: S Abbot & I Sedgman, 1978 | 11 | 35m | |||||
9 |
Tight Black Pants
FA: K Strojek & G Hoxley, 1981 | 12 | 30m | |||||
10 |
Skin Friction
FA: K Strojek & G Hoxley, 1984 | 18 | 30m, 2 | |||||
11 |
Skin Friction Variant
FA: K Strojek & H Hoxley, 1984 | 20 | 30m, 2 | |||||
12 |
Quick Frisk
FA: K Strojek & H Hoxley, 1984 | 13 | 52m, 2 | |||||
13 |
Rags To Riches
FA: I Sedgman, C Houston & K Egerton, 1976 | 5 | 35m | |||||
14 |
Octogenarian Grumps
FA: I Sedgman, K Egerton & C Houston, 1976 | 8 | 30m | |||||
|
1.6.1. North Oberon 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.035285, 146.349505
summary
Head towards the rock that looks like a trouser snake!
description
Inspiring lines, some choss, with some good quality rock in places. Some nice off-widths still to be climbed!
approach
From Oberon carpark, walk 200m up road, then follow faint ridge on right to phallic looking rock. About 40min.
where to stay
Tidal River
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
The Goo
Right hand side of the rock, follow chossy chimney on the back and top out steeply on the headwall. Descend onto exposed slab and walk off. FFA: Kat Tree Gypsy FA: Kat Tree Gypsy, 21 May 2015 | 11 | 30m | |||||
2 |
★ Worm
"A worm in your apple isn't great, but it's better than only half a worm" The obvious corner seen from the drive up to Oberon carpark. Reasonable quality rock and good gear up a sustained corner crack. FFA: Ruru Kraal FA: Ruru Kraal, 21 May 2015 | 17 | 20m |
1.6.2. East Oberon 0 routes in Area
1.6.3. Summit Area 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.040237, 146.344681
description
‘Summit wall' is the situated directly below the Mt Oberon summit. The 'Right Side' contains good climbing; however most of the cliff is split by a rooflet about 4m off the ground which means that the routes are much harder than the rest of the climb because of the inconvenience. The 'Left Side' gradually gets larger and the wall increases in size. Beware of potentially hazardous loose rock on and above the wall.
approach
Follow the Mt Oberon trail to the summit. Once at the summit, walk left until the cliffline ends. Walk down the steep edge of the cliff until below routes. This will be the 'Right Side' of 'Friendship Wall'. Continue left past the pillar to access the 'Left Side'. Alternatively, you can abseil of the summit.
descent notes
If you decide to abseil into these cliffs; be aware of tourists who are wanting to get a little too close to your gear! It is advisable to try and hide any of it on a busy day. Beware of your rope lengths; especially on the 'Left Side'. On the 'Right Side'; be aware of the rooflet as it can catch you off guard.
1.6.3.1. Left Side 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.040086, 146.344694
approach
From the summit, descent via gully to the left. Then scramble down and right near a large boulder to base of wall. Alternatively rappel in.
descent notes
As per approach.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Long Arm Bar And Twisting Wristlock
FA: Rob Dunning, 1983 | 17 | 18m | |||
2 |
Long Arm Bar And Twisting Wristlock Variant Start
FA: Sue Mills, 1983 | 13 | 18m |
1.6.3.2. Right Side 5 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.040518, 146.344660
description
Scramble from the summit left and down to ledge. You can either scramble down the gully to the left or abseil in (sling a bollard).
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Mrs Mossy and Mr Chossy
As the name suggests, written up to ensure others aren't tempted. The main weakness of the giant pillar that divides Left Side and Right Side. Step across to 2m of enjoyable climbing at the top. FA: Poppy, Shaggy Horse, Jen & Andrew, 8 May 2021 | 5 | 28m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ Not Just A Pretty Face
Difficult and awkward climbing at start. Easy face above. One of the better routes here! FA: Grant, 22 Feb 2015 | 22 | 18m | |||||
3 |
Just You and Me / Solitude
Alternative start to 'Not Just A Pretty Face' FA: Grant, 22 Feb 2015 | 20 | 22m | |||||
4 |
Below The Line
Second pitch can be linked into the first for a larger pitch. You can also lower off at the first belay. You will also need to clean it! Set: Grant, 12 Sep 2015 | 2 | ||||||
5 |
Access Line
FA: Grant, 22 Feb 2015 | 5 | 6m |
1.6.4. Communication Dome 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.039349, 146.344874
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Big Kiss
THIS AREA OF MOUNT OBERON HAS PREVIOUSLY BEEN RECORDED AS PANORAMA WALL (VCC EASTERN VICTORIA GUIDEBOOK) The line of BK can clearly be seen as the left hand skyline of the Summit of Mount Oberon from the campground at Tidal River. The second pitch follows the rib that is in actual fact the top of the huge flake obvious from sea level.
FA: Karl Bromelow, Mandy Robertson & Kai Seth Robertson, 9 Jun 2014 | 13 | 40m, 2 | |||||
2 |
Slippery Slide
Starts as for "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib). This original start eliminates the closing offwidth crack start. Start below the right of the two cracks in the wall in front of the huge boulder at the bottom of the crag as for "Big Kiss". Climb this crack over the easing angle and then traverse right over slab to join left facing crack (SS DS). Starts tending left up to horizontal break, and follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain). The route then joins the start of right tending crack just above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack. Walk off toward summit and join track. FA: Luke Baxter, Grant & Tayla Chrystie, Apr 2022 | 5 | 60m | |||||
3 |
Slippery Slide Direct Start
Starts down lower, 10m right of "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib). Starts at base of flake, up steep wall for 5m and onto easing angle continuing to follow crack. SS then follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain) staying left of the steep wall to right. Up this stain to join the right facing crack above the vegetation. Above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack. Walk off toward summit and join track. FA: Luke Baxter, Grant & Tayla Chrystie, Apr 2022 | 8 | 50m |
1.6.5. Summit South Wall 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Aid climbing
Lat / Long: -39.041205, 146.344472
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Tropical Gully
FA: Grant, 10 Apr 2015 | 50m, 2 |
1.6.6. Diosa Sector 1 route in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.040098, 146.344187
|
1.6.6.1. Summit Cluster 0 routes in Crag
1.6.6.2. Tranquil Walls 0 routes in Cliff
1.6.6.3. Summit Rocks 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.039874, 146.344263
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Miami Heat
Set: Grant, 13 Sep 2015 |
1.6.7. Atmospheric Slabs 0 routes in Crag
1.6.8. West Oberon 0 routes in Area
1.6.9. Shattered Dome 22 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -39.044800, 146.340311
description
On the slopes of Mt Oberon is Shattered Dome... Home to Wilsons Prom's adventure climbing. This routes require dedication; duthe that the wall is pretty intimidating; due to the walk in
access issues
Shattered Dome has very problematic access. It requires bush bashing (which is technically illegal - By Parks Victoria standards) and some descents. It takes a long time too! And lugging your heavy load of gear for hours on end isn't fun - but its worth it!
approach
Follow the Mt Oberon Summit Trail for the entire track. Then; walk left on the track to Legend Point. Follow this, either, onto the top of Legend Point and abseil off; or take a right when in the bushes and down the the base of the cliff. From this; negotiate the shrubbery and trees and make your way along the top of Guardian Sector until a break in the slabs. Follow this gully (roped?) down to the bottom of these slabs. [Or possibly abseil off a slab]. From this; continue straight and around the base of the far right side of Shattered Dome ; or go right at this point to come out on left. [There may also be a possibility to get on top of the cliff from this point?].
ethic
No Bolting. No Chipping. No 'Gardening' [Removal of vegetation].
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Project 1 | |||||||
2 | Project 2 | |||||||
3 | Project 3 | |||||||
4 | Project 4 | |||||||
5 | Project 5 | |||||||
6 | Project 6 | |||||||
7 | Project 7 | |||||||
8 |
New Dawn
Set: 15 Oct 2015 | |||||||
9 | Project 9 | |||||||
10 | Project 9 Variant Finish | |||||||
11 | Project 10 | |||||||
12 | Project 11 | |||||||
13 | Project 12 | |||||||
14 | Project 12 Extension | |||||||
15 | Project 13 | |||||||
16 | Project 14 | |||||||
17 | Project 15 | |||||||
18 | Project 16 | |||||||
19 | Project 17 | |||||||
20 | Project 18 | |||||||
21 | Project 19 | |||||||
22 | Project 20 |
1.6.10. Bay Amphitheatre 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -39.044019, 146.336976
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Project 1
Set: L Baxx | |||||||
2 |
Project 2
Set: L Baxx | |||||||
3 |
Project 3
Set: L Baxx | |||||||
4 |
Project 4
Set: L Baxx |
1.7. Little Oberon 45 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Bouldering and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.045227, 146.327891
|
1.7.1. Lone Pillars 0 routes in Area
|
1.7.2. South Norman Beach Boulders 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.042151, 146.325421
description
An interesting variety of slab, face and even some (and potentially many!) overhung boulder problems. To access the furthest boulders its best to go at low-mid tide.
There were a variety of very steep climbs that were either too hard, in desperate need of a brush, or too difficult to protect that definitely looked possible if someone stronger/bolder than I were to try.
There is also a possibility of more boulders existing further along the beach than I explored
approach
From tidal river walk to norman beach and head south all the way to the end where the obvious beach boulders are. The routes are listed from closest to furthest from the beach line at high tide with bumpy boulders being right at the end.
1.7.2.1. Bumpy Boulders 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.042599, 146.324933
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Apple Picking
Up the nicely featured arete, sit starting with opposed pockets and up using hold on both sides of the arete. Best climb in the area so far! Unsure of grade FA: Brynn Clayton | V6/7 | ||||||
2 |
★ Pear Picking
Crouch/sit start with right hand on a good flat edge with left on a smaller flat edge. Go straight up topping out on big holds. FA: 26 Mar 2023 | V2 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★ Snap
stand start on slopey left sidepull and tiny right crimp. reachy moves lead to a reachy topout! shares a handhold with Medua-Lite but remains a distinctly different climb FA: Brynn Clayton | V5 | ||||||
4 |
★★ Medusa-Lite
stand start with the large-ish pocket for your left hand, deadpoint out right and follow the crack to top out FA: Brynn Clayton | V4 | ||||||
5 |
Easy (?) Project
Sit start and follow up the solid-seeming flake. Multiple mats and a spotter recommended. seemed good and likely easy |
1.7.2.2. Warmup slab area 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.041800, 146.325781
description
the area between and including the first large slabby boulder (warmup slab) and the second (Show-off)
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Warmup slab
sit start move from right to left and top out. Alternatively, just use the many holds of this wall to traverse back and forth to warmup, could even make some cool eliminations FA: Brynn Clayton | V2 | ||||||
2 |
★ Walk on the beach
Traverse the flake to the top. FA: Dan, 5 Nov 2021 | V1 | ||||||
3 |
★★ The Strained Rail
felt vaguely reminiscent of the straining rail at Macedon. Sit start and strain up the rail to a somewhat kitty-littery topout, could benefit from a brush on the second half FA: Brynn Clayton | V5 | ||||||
4 |
★ Barefoot
Stand start to avoid sea-life. Straight up sloping jugs to top out. FA: Dan, 5 Nov 2021 | V2 | ||||||
5 |
★ Show-off
stand start (to avoid killing the sealife on the rock) and go through and up the blank looking section on a somewhat committing topout. FA: Brynn Clayton | V3 |
1.7.3. 'The Pocket' Alcove 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.042002, 146.326866
description
Overlooks 'The Pocket' surf break
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
One For Insomnia
Poorly protected ramp. Probably okay in dry conditions but best to avoid when wet. | 11 X | 35m |
1.7.4. Quarter Dome 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.044368, 146.328104
summary
Please be aware of a possible 'death block' in the lower part of the wall.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ No Land In Sight | 18 | 60m | |||||
2 | Southern Swell | 12 | 35m | |||||
3 | Haul Away | 16 | 35m | |||||
4 | Squall | 17 | 35m | |||||
5 | Dirty Creature | 16 | 30m | |||||
6 | Shark Attack | 16 | 35m | |||||
7 |
Lost World
Set: Grant | 6 | ||||||
8 |
Lost World Direct
Set: Grant, 23 Mar 2015 | 4 | ||||||
9 |
Super Dome
Set: Grant, 3 Jun 2015 | 7 | ||||||
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1.7.5. Surf-Side Slabs 0 routes in Crag
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1.7.6. Eagle Slabs 0 routes in Crag
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1.7.6.1. Main Cliff 0 routes in Cliff
1.7.6.2. Lower Cliff 0 routes in Cliff
1.7.7. Trackside Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -39.049693, 146.325365
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Nautical Jigsaw | 12 | 65m | |||||
2 | Up With The Jones' | 12 | 65m | |||||
3 | It Could Have Been Mine | 12 | 65m | |||||
4 | Man Overboard | 16 | 65m | |||||
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1.7.8. Little Oberon Slabs 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -39.045824, 146.329365
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Have A Nice Day | 10 | 180m | |||||
2 | Peters Out To Nothing | 14 | 140m | |||||
3 | Peters Out To Nothing Direct Start | 16 | 10m | |||||
4 | Peters Out To Nothing Variant Start | 15 | 15m | |||||
5 | Tunnel Of Love | 17 | 130m | |||||
6 | Sink Or Swim | 18 | 70m | |||||
7 |
★ Five Miles Out
Hilary Sharp and myself made the first ascent of this in 1986. Can't find my diary at the moment, but I'll add the exact date when I do. | 18 | 80m | |||||
8 | Taken Nasally | 15 | 70m | |||||
9 | ★★ Dune | 15 | 90m | |||||
10 | Keith's Climb | 17 | 50m | |||||
11 | Cleared For Takeoff | 16 | 96m | |||||
12 | Almost | 12 | 80m | |||||
13 | Cracked Up | 18 | 70m | |||||
14 | So Far Away From Me | 18 | 65m | |||||
15 | Blue Beach | 18 | 65m | |||||
16 | Budgie Basher | 18 | 65m | |||||
17 | ★ Guilded Lace | 13 | 81m | |||||
18 | Drowning Not Waving | 12 | 60m | |||||
19 | Drowning Not Waving Direct Start | 14 | 20m | |||||
20 | Lifeguard | 17 | 30m | |||||
21 | On The Boardwalk | 17 | 30m | |||||
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1.7.9. The Outpost 0 routes in Area
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1.8. Tidal River 5 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -39.030678, 146.316996
1.8.1. The Chimney 5 routes in Artificial
- Summary:
-
summary
Chimney at Education Centre
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Route 1 | 6m | ||||||
2 | Route 2 | 6m | ||||||
3 | Route 3 | 6m | ||||||
4 | Route 4 | 6m | ||||||
5 | Route 5 | 6m |
1.8.2. Whale Rock 0 routes in Unknown
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1.8.3. Tidal River Boulders 0 routes in Unknown
1.9. Vanishing Wall 0 routes in Crag
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1.10. Mt Wilson 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -39.053176, 146.402037
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Blue Suede Shoes | 10 | 42m | |||
2 | Square Corner | 13 | 51m |
1.11. Easter Island Heads 0 routes in Field
summary
Feature across from Mt Wilson, off side of track to Lil Waterloo camp. Unknown quality.
access issues
Not sure. Check with Parks.
approach
No obvious existing track. Consider approaching after next fires.
where to stay
Lil Waterloo
history
Unknown
1.12. Lighthouse Area 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Aid climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -39.127097, 146.423920
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mr. Epic | 18 M2 | 25m | |||
2 | Indelicate | 20 M0 | 22m | |||
3 | Land's End | 12 | 18m |
1.13. Islands 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -39.098104, 146.254012
description
All areas on Islands surrounding Wilsons Prom NP
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1.13.1. Skullrock 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.157932, 146.294211
access issues
IT IS ILLEGAL TO CLIMB HERE
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Crossbones Chimney | 16 | 75m | |||
2 | Crossbones Chimney Direct Start | 10 | 15m |
1.13.2. Norman Island 0 routes in Crag
1.14. The Treacherous Coast 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
summary
Adventure bouldering for the sea-side loving rock climber! Set a far distance from the tourists, yet still exposed to the wonders of the Prom. Bring psych, bring skin, and enjoy the serenity!
description
A granite boulder field in Wilson's Promontory. Granite quality is generally good but coarse on the skin due to the large quartz present through most/all the rock. Tough/good skin, good movement, and a less dynamic climbing style will do you good here.
The crag receives morning shade but quickly comes into the sun by midday. There are pockets of shade throughout, but generally, most climbs are exposed to sun/wind.
Bring climbing/wire brushes to clean off any loose pieces of rock/quartz. Only brush holds you plan to use. Although some foot holds have shed off climbs, no hand holds have broken (on me). Due caution is always advised, especially if developing new lines, given the limited reception and difficulties obtaining help.
Please note that overall, this is NOT a child-friendly area. Some areas of the crag are relatively safe and flat, but other parts have steep drops into the sea with little opportunity for rescue. People who choose to take their children here should exercise extreme caution.
access issues
None yet. Refer to the ethics section below for suggestions on ways we can maintain access.
approach
To be done
history
First developed by Jamie in 2023 in a hunt for new rock to climb. A Penchant for Dreaming (V5) and Cockface Crocodile (V5) were climbed this trip due to their unique overhung formations; a rarity for granite.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ The Sadistic Seagull
Stand-start with left hand in sidepull arete and right hand on choice of features. Traverse right onto jugs and mantel excellent edge. FA: Jamie, 9 Mar | V2 | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ The Voyeuristic Plover
Sit-start good left crimp and poor right crimp. Pull into gaston, then up jug arete as per Route 1. FA: Jamie, 9 Mar | V4 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★★ The Narcissistic Pelican
Sit-start on amazing protuding smooth-vein of rock. Mantel over the bulge and continue up easy slab. FA: Jamie, 9 Mar | V0 | 3m | |||||
4 |
The Hedonistic Albatross
Sit-start right hand on arete and left hand on choice of features. Pull onto face, sort feet and climb up jugs. Needs a good brush. FA: Jamie, 9 Mar | V1 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★★ Wave Rider
A beautiful arete on the lone block on the left of the crag. Sit-start and climb the sharp right-leaning diagonal arete. FA: Jamie, Jan 2023 | V3 | 3m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★★ The Penguin Egg
The first block you come to if accessing from the Garden Path. Stand-start and climb left-leaning jug features then mantel the sloping egg. FA: Jamie, 9 Mar | V3 | 4m | |||||
7 |
★★ The Ice Block
Small compression boulder with a wide start. Sit-start with hands on both aretes. Hard compression leads to a good edge before an easier exit. FA: Jamie, 10 Mar | V6 | 2m | |||||
8 |
★★★ A Penchant For Dreaming
The mega-classic roof line of the crag. Sit-start deep in the cave on a jug rail. Traverse out of the cave and tackle the v-shaped groove. Once you obtain the second jug rail, jug it out rightward on the lip until you can head upward on a large flake. FA: Jamie, Jan 2023 | V5 | 4m | |||||
9 |
★★ Seeking Solitude
Sit-start as per 'A Penchant for Dreaming (V5)'. Head leftward on smooth jugs toward the water-filled bowl. Make difficult moves onto the lip then use volcanic protusions to get over. FA: Jamie, Jan 2023 | V4 | 4m | |||||
10 |
★★ A Soliloquy to Hope
A nice lip traverse on jugs and slopers with many heel hooks! Crouch-start with left hand jug and right hand on pinch under the roof. Slap up onto slopers and traverse rightward on decent but sharp slopers until the juggy crack (shared with 'A Penchant for Dreaming (V5)'). From here, mantel difficultly using chicken heads. FA: Jamie, 9 Mar | V6 | 5m | |||||
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||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 |
★★ Midnight Arete
An aesthetic overhanging arete with orange lichen. Sit-start and climb the right leaning arete on sharp jugs. FA: Jamie, 10 Mar | V1 | 4m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Midnight Whisper
An aesthetically pleasing overhung arete with superb moves on jugs and crimps. Sit-start and climb the beautiful overhang before heading rightward onto the exceptional jug flake. Step up into positive crimps, make a long move upward and top out over the lip. FA: Jamie, 10 Mar | V4 | 4m | |||||
13 |
★ Route 11
Crouch-start on left hand jug arete and right hand crimp. Move up and over. FA: Jamie, 9 Mar | V0 | 3m | |||||
14 |
★★ Cockface Crocodile
Sit-start and traverse rightward on a unique, hollowed-out granite lobe before mantelling over the crocodile's face. More stars for humping. FA: Jamie, 10 Mar | V5 | 3m |