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Ethic inherited from Wolgan Valley

National Park.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Canberra Climbers' Association (CC BY-SA) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route

We tried this route in February 2008.

A friend who climbs well (at least 21 on trad pretty consistently) led. There's an awkward move at a rooflet (more awkward than strenuous I think but may be different on lead). Anyway, after that there is a basically a vertical garden. Lots of dirt and what-not growing there. But it's none too secure; from memory gear is hard to come by.

The start of pitch 2 defeated us. I think that holds have broken off (my friend broke some more rock off while trying to do it, taking a fall in the process) and bumped it up a couple of grades.

Steepness heading right. Short.

Start: Above rap anchors for Catch the wind.

FA: ?Stumpy Ed., 2000

  1. 15m (16) Although it feels a lot bloody harder. Start over bulge then follow corner crack to tree belay.

  2. 42m (15) Up continuation finger crack to a small ledge before stepping left and following a wider corner crack to the top.

FA: Ian Lewis & Pete Moris, 1974

A jaw dropping line. Walk from Newnes campsite on maintrail left of river for approx 150 meters then turn left uphill on obvious trail between two stone cairns. Wind your way up into a saddle and up and left you will see a large white patch of cliff. Break trail and mosey up spur to elevated platform just right of white rock and base of route (shiny bolts).

Starts just right of large white patch of rock, below prominent crack line. Bring doubles in the small size cams and a number 6 camalot (trust me , you will know when to place it). You can link pitch 1&2 but its a long one. If linking pitch 1 + 2 bring alot of everything.

P1.(20) Up to base of crack passing 7 stainless BR's then delicately up crack to small stance above good large wire at 25 meters. Belay is med/large cams.

P2. (20) Continue up crack 25m to semi hanging DRB. F.A built rebelay at next ledge though easier to just belay from semi hanging DRB.

P3. (18) Strenous moves to get onto wall employing small trees , up crack for a few meters then veering right on ironstone passing 6 BR's up to DRB on ledge. 65m rap from here to ground.

If accessing Upper Baldy ignore the belay at the top of pitch 3 (DRB). Instead, step left 2mtrs to BR , mantle and belay just above at new DUB rap station. (From here it is exactly 70 meters to ground).

FFA: Evan Wells & Marty Doolan, 6 Jun 2015

Access: Use Secret Swinger access track. Start in corner as for "The Chain", 20m left of SS.

Up TC about 3m to horizontal break. Traverse right (#2-3 SLCD) about 3m or so to obvious flake. Up flake (bolts) to big break/small cave. Continue up from cave trending R past more bolts then back L to bottom of flake system (hard). Follow wonderful flakes past bolts to small roof (#4 SLCD). Clip both bolts then up (hard) onto small ledge. Continue up shallow corner past more bolts to finish at the big tree.

Take two ropes to rap off the tree. There are about 14-16 "carrot" bolts with no hangers.

Nice long corner handcrack, take plenty of hand-size gear. Unfortunately the first move is very cruxy, and as always in the Wolgan there is some dodgy rock.

FA: Ian Lewis & Pete Morris, 1974

FA: B Maxwell & J Croker

The first pitch is 40m to a tree-belay. You can traverse 5m left past a short jam crack (just below the aforementioned tree) to the anchors for Liquid sky at the end of P1, and rap to the ground (a single 60m rope JUST reaches on stretch).

P1 - 12m 16 - Dirty but easy off-width to the ledge. Can be combined quite easily with P2 for a mega pitch. #4 cam is useful, but not essential.

P2 - 36m 19 - The main pitch is excellent varied jamming through low-angle cracks and around vague overlaps. Bring a big rack of gear. The dirty off-width at the top is hard to protect, and the top-out is onto rubble and scree.

55m abseil from tree at the top of the cliff to the ground. 2 ropes essential.

Classic strenuous seam crack that is protected by a mix of ringbolts, wires and a few medium cams. Stickclip first bolt to protect the bouldery start. The piton that protects the middle crux is missing, and now needs to be protected with a somewhat worrying small wire -#4 Wild Country-, (or extend the bomber #2/#3 Cam in the horizontal above if pre-placed). Techy crux, then a few moves to a bolt. Fingery moves up steepening seam on bomber wires to the upper crux. Then 2 bolts to the anchors. There is another bolt near the top that cannot be clipped on-route and seems to be completely irrelevant to the climbing line.

Some pitons and all carrots were replaced with ringbolts in 2013. Old bolts are still in situ.

FA: Giles Bradbury (with a rest), 1983

FFA: Steve Bullen, 1984

Classic almost-a-sport route with some wonderful sustained climbing and heartbreak crux right near the top. Stick-clip high RB then up sweet scoop past another RB to horizontal break (vital #3/#4 camalot - make it bomber, if it fails you hit the deck). Finish up wall above past three move RBs and a long runout to shared rap anchor with Top of the Pops. The bolts are weirdly placed so use long runners to avoid ropedrag. Route was rebolted in 2013.

FA: Giles Bradbury (23 M0), 1984

FFA: Paul Thomson & Neil Monteith, 29 Aug 2014


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