A jaw dropping line. Walk from Newnes campsite on maintrail left of river for approx 150 meters then turn left uphill on obvious trail between two stone cairns. Wind your way up into a saddle and up and left you will see a large white patch of cliff. Break trail and mosey up spur to elevated platform just right of white rock and base of route (shiny bolts).
Starts just right of large white patch of rock, below prominent crack line. Bring doubles in the small size cams and a number 6 camalot (trust me , you will know when to place it). You can link pitch 1&2 but its a long one. If linking pitch 1 + 2 bring alot of everything.
P1.(20) Up to base of crack passing 7 stainless BR's then delicately up crack to small stance above good large wire at 25 meters. Belay is med/large cams.
P2. (20) Continue up crack 25m to semi hanging DRB. F.A built rebelay at next ledge though easier to just belay from semi hanging DRB.
P3. (18) Strenous moves to get onto wall employing small trees , up crack for a few meters then veering right on ironstone passing 6 BR's up to DRB on ledge. 65m rap from here to ground.
If accessing Upper Baldy ignore the belay at the top of pitch 3 (DRB). Instead, step left 2mtrs to BR , mantle and belay just above at new DUB rap station. (From here it is exactly 70 meters to ground).