The Badlands All Trad climbing13 routes in crag
- Grades: AU
- Approach time: 35min
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New crag out in the Wolgan. Andrew Penny put up a route back in the 80's at the far Western end of the crag and called the area Penrose Gully. There are tonnes of potential new routes out there.
Bolts are glue in stainless steel requiring bolt brackets. Cliff faces N/W. Don’t go on a hot summer’s day
Down stream from the Coal Mines. Drive 2.4km past the ford for the Coal Mines and park on side of the road. Walk down to the Wolgan river ( 1min walk) and cross over a log then up the hill side until you reach the Newnes Ruins/ Glow worm trail (5min). Cross trail and continue up broad spur till you reach the cliff line (20min). Now head right approx 50m until you can scramble up through the cliff line via a handline. Continue up to main cliff line where the path of least resistance where you should find Flakeation.
There is an abseil point 2UBB approx 10m West of top out of The Badlands. 40m abseil to ledge, then abseil off 2BB 30m to ground. Descents of routes are listed.
Ethic inherited from Wolgan Valley
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