Whale Watchers & Kenny's Wall Mostly Sport climbing13 routes in sector
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A couple of nice walls varying in height from 12 m to 35 m with good rock and astounding views of the coastline and of migrating whales in season
Access issues inherited from Scarborough Cliffs
The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards! They can probably also hear your screams. Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.
Park on the side of the Princes Hwy at (GPS -34.2638, 150.9479) at the entrance of a gated maintenance road, about 1.5km south of the Boomerang Golf Course clubhouse.
Walk 600m east down the maintenance road almost to the cliff edge and turn left at the green sign for the Forest Track. Follow the track north-east and you will eventually come to a sign that reads "warning, dangerous cliffs in the area". The top of the wall is about 127 steps after that sign. It takes about 20 minutes to walk in. You rap in, climb out.
For Kenny’s wall:
After the ‘dangerous cliffs in the area sign’, walk about 100m on the main track. There is an obvious track to the right (tree marked with white tape), walk 10m on that track. If you are facing the sea there should be a very good ledge to your right. This ledge has two ring bolts as abseil anchors, these bolts are at face height. The rings are marked with ‘KW’ in white paint.
There is a large safe ledge at the bottom of Kenny's Wall to belay from. Best way to get out is to carry some type of ascenders and jug the rap rope. Or else send Ken again, where you will find an additional bolt in the block to allow you to climb up to the top where a double bolt belay can be found.
For the Whale Watchers/ Whale of Time wall:
While on the main track, DON’T take the first obvious right that leads to Kenny’s wall. KEEP ON the MAIN TRACK for about 10ish meters, there should be another right track (tree marked with purple cloth). Go right, walk 5m. The abseil anchors are on the ground at knee height, anchors are marked with ‘WW’ with white paint. These anchors are looking towards the sea.
If you have a single 60m rope, it will NOT get you to the base of the climb. There is another set of anchors after 20m abseil, use them to get to the ground.
Suggested method: Take two 60m ropes. Setup one as a single line for abseiling, this rope can be retrieved after you have finished the climb.
Ethic inherited from Scarborough Cliffs
Don't bolt cracks. Please. If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.
Development began in 2016. Kenny's wall was later grid bolted by the Hills in the usual squeeze job fashion in 2017. All variations and link ups have been done to death.
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