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Description

A couple of nice walls varying in height from 12 m to 35 m with good rock and astounding views of the coastline and of migrating whales in season

Access issues inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards! They can probably also hear your screams. Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.

Approach

Park on the side of the Princes Hwy at (GPS -34.2638, 150.9479) at the entrance of a gated maintenance road, about 1.5km south of the Boomerang Golf Course clubhouse.

https://www.google.com.au/maps/@-34.263839,150.9478714,157m/data=!3m1!1e3

Walk 600m east down the maintenance road almost to the cliff edge and turn left at the green sign for the Forest Track. Follow the track north-east and you will eventually come to a sign that reads "warning, dangerous cliffs in the area". The top of the wall is about 127 steps after that sign. It takes about 20 minutes to walk in. You rap in, climb out.

Descent notes

For Kenny’s wall:

After the ‘dangerous cliffs in the area sign’, walk about 100m on the main track. There is an obvious track to the right (tree marked with white tape), walk 10m on that track. If you are facing the sea there should be a very good ledge to your right. This ledge has two ring bolts as abseil anchors, these bolts are at face height. The rings are marked with ‘KW’ in white paint.

There is a large safe ledge at the bottom of Kenny's Wall to belay from. Best way to get out is to carry some type of ascenders and jug the rap rope. Or else send Ken again, where you will find an additional bolt in the block to allow you to climb up to the top where a double bolt belay can be found.

For the Whale Watchers/ Whale of Time wall:

While on the main track, DON’T take the first obvious right that leads to Kenny’s wall. KEEP ON the MAIN TRACK for about 10ish meters, there should be another right track (tree marked with purple cloth). Go right, walk 5m. The abseil anchors are on the ground at knee height, anchors are marked with ‘WW’ with white paint. These anchors are looking towards the sea.

If you have a single 60m rope, it will NOT get you to the base of the climb. There is another set of anchors after 20m abseil, use them to get to the ground.

Suggested method: Take two 60m ropes. Setup one as a single line for abseiling, this rope can be retrieved after you have finished the climb.

Ethic inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

Don't bolt cracks. Please. If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.

History

View historical timeline

Development began in 2016. Kenny's wall was later grid bolted by the Hills in the usual squeeze job fashion in 2017. All variations and link ups have been done to death.

Routes

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Grade Route

Left most line of bolts. Traverse in along the bottom clipping an appropriate bolt or two to prevent death. Head up nice but way too short line of bolts to the cruxy top. Clip from the knobby holds as the slopers on the top are very difficult to hold and clip from.

Set by Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, 27 Aug 2017

Line left of dead Kenny. Again nice rock but you only just get into climbing when it ends. You can clip the anchors off the holds on the top edge. Only slightly more difficult than OMG. Could be easier.

Set by Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, 21 Aug 2017

Third line in from left. Start at the flake and finish on the anchors on the highest part of the wall. Lovely orange rock that should stop snapping off given a couple of ascents.

Set by Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, 12 Aug 2017

The original route on this wall and one of the best. All routes are graded relative to this as a reference. The fourth line of bolts in from the left.

Set by Leo Stanners & Ryan

FA: Leo Stanners, 2007

FFA: Leo Stanners, 22 Nov 2016

The fifth line of bolts in from the left. Start off the block and head towards the money shot at the end.

Set by Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, Sep 2017

The second line of bolts right of SFK. Start to the left of the first bolt off the block. The usual thin mid section. The move thru the blank gap at the top is a little different to all the others.

Set by Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, Oct 2017

Third line of bolts back from the corner, (including the corner line). Start from the ground. Thin moves to start heading up and left for the layaway. Cruise the middle using the classic mono-doigt. Easiest top moves on the wall. Well protected. Maybe easy for the grade.

Set by Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, Sep 2017

Second line of bolts back from the corner. Very thin start on micro foot holds that become more micro by the ascent.

Set by Graeme Hill, Sep 2017

FA: V Hill, Oct 2017

Line just to the left of the corner. Not as pretty as the other lines but will keep those who like the Big K snot & grovel interested. Up the corner for a few moves until you can establish on the face. A few thin moves some jugs and the anchors, what more is there?

Set by Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, Oct 2017

Up the dirty crack in the corner under the rap in. Go straight up navigating the loose holds and a few bushes.

FA: Mungo Skyring & Kezia Eyre, 10 Dec

Line of bolts 1.5 m right of the corner that you rap down. Dirty and will be forever so. Better climb it while its freshly cleaned after the first ascent. Or bring a brush. Thin start that relents to easy jugging. Guess which climbs aren't 21.

Set by Graeme Hill

FA: Graeme Hill, Oct 2017

A fun route with some good exposure and good photo opportunities. Pitch 1: Climb up "whale watchers" to the set of double rings. Pitch 2: Traverse left to the airy corner and up to double rings on the ledge. Pitch 3: Up and around the arete onto the face. Double rings at the top for belaying.

FFA: Dave Burt, Nick Roach & Jesse Bowker, Feb 2017

The route below the rap anchors. Its a good idea to put a runner on the fourth bolt from the bottom on your way down so that you can clip it from the ledge

FFA: Nick Roach & Dave Burt, Feb 2017

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