Love and Fear Wall All Sport climbing1 route in cliff
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A 70 m wall - the biggest on the northern escarpment. An "adventure" wall. Be prepared for some loose rock, dirt and weak holds.
Access issues inherited from Scarborough Cliffs
The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards! They can probably also hear your screams. Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.
Park on the old Princes Highway here: https://goo.gl/maps/1WiaCueWF1w Its the road with the little loop in the end on google maps. It has power lines running from the road to the edge of the cliff. Walk to the edge of the cliff to the south of the power poles. Walk along the top of the cliff on the track until you reach the wooden base jumping ramp. A few metres further along you will find two stainless rings for abseiling in. There are also some other rings around the place of a different type that the base jumpers have put there to pull out their pilot chute, don't abseil on these.
You will need two ropes for 2 x 35 m abseils. Those lengths are estimates - don't try to use a single 70 m rope for either abseil or a fixed 70 m rope all the way to the ground - there is a good chance it won't make it. Extend the first rap with slings (you will be returning to this point). First to "little ledge" which is on the right when facing the rock, DBB. Second, straight to ground. Note: do not stand under the abseil when your buddy is coming down as rocks may fall.
Ethic inherited from Scarborough Cliffs
Don't bolt cracks. Please. If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.
First climbed 30/10/2017
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