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Description

A 70 m wall - the biggest on the northern escarpment. An "adventure" wall. Be prepared for some loose rock, dirt and weak holds.

Access issues inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards! They can probably also hear your screams. Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.

Approach

Park on the old Princes Highway here: https://goo.gl/maps/1WiaCueWF1w Its the road with the little loop in the end on google maps. It has power lines running from the road to the edge of the cliff. Walk to the edge of the cliff to the south of the power poles. Walk along the top of the cliff on the track until you reach the wooden base jumping ramp. A few metres further along you will find two stainless rings for abseiling in. There are also some other rings around the place of a different type that the base jumpers have put there to pull out their pilot chute, don't abseil on these.

Descent notes

You will need two ropes for 2 x 35 m abseils. Those lengths are estimates - don't try to use a single 70 m rope for either abseil or a fixed 70 m rope all the way to the ground - there is a good chance it won't make it. Extend the first rap with slings (you will be returning to this point). First to "little ledge" which is on the right when facing the rock, DBB. Second, straight to ground. Note: do not stand under the abseil when your buddy is coming down as rocks may fall.

Ethic inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

Don't bolt cracks. Please. If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.

History

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First climbed 30/10/2017

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1 18
2 10
3 17
4 18
5 18
6 19

The first route established on the wall. Worth it for the length and the view! This is a fully bolted sport route but there is a significant amount of dirt and loose rock in some sections - be careful. Not suitable as a first multi pitch route. Take a scrubbing brush or paintbrush to clean holds. Has sun til midday. After you land from the abseil, walk north along the cliff about 30 m until you come to a fallen tree with a bit of string tied to a root. That's where it starts.

  1. 25m 18 Stand on the tree to get past the choss. Careful clipping the third bolt. Up and around the arete, then up onto a ledge (lots of dirt). Climb up the flake to a DBB.

  2. 10m 10 Traverse left along "sketch ledge" until you reach a DBB. Don't pull on the choss. Stay roped up, its called sketch ledge for a reason!

  3. 25m 17 The best pitch! Up and then traverse left then up to a nice ledge. DBB.

  4. 15m 18 Traverse out along the break and then go up to a small belay ledge DBB. Be prepared for dirt on the last few holds.

  5. 15m 18 Up through the dirty dihedral (it's ok to pull on the tree), then traverse right on some sketchy rock, up to a DBB.

  6. 20m 19 Mantle then left along the ledge. There is a bird nesting in one of the larger pockets, its marked with chalk, please do not disturb. Then head up the face, hugging the arete with your left arm at one point, and then one last tricky mantle and you're done! DBB.

FFA: Nick Roach & Dave Burt, 30 Oct 2017

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