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Vegemite Wall

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 3
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AU
21

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Summary

Vegemite, cause if you love it, you'll really love it and if you hate it, you'll really hate it. Big square cut face with some good quality climbing on it.

Description

Due to a massive amount of vegetation on top of the wall the big downside is access. As it stands there are a few ways to get to it... all are shit, but rest assured, worth it. "Tim Tam Jam" in particular has some of the best and most sustained climbing on the escarpment.

Access issues inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards! They can probably also hear your screams. Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.

Approach

The best of the worst options is probably to fix a static rap in through the shrub above the cliff and jug back out it after finishing the climb. To find the rap in point park as for Whale of a Time and begin the walk in. A couple minutes after turning onto the nature walking track notice when it begins to descend. At the sharp bend accompanied with the steep downhill walk 15m toward the ocean, through the bush to the obvious rock outcropping. You now have a clear view of the coastline and should hopefully be able to find the vague "Path" through the bushes below by which to rap through. A medium sized tree makes a good anchor and 30m of static gets you to the top anchors of Tim Tam Jam. Wear helmuts and watch for loose rock. -34.263703, 150.957742

Another alternative that hasn't been tested but is worth a shot: At the bottom of the rap in for "Big Fin Slappers" descend down the slopes about 30m before tracking south along the cliffline. Tim Tam Jam can be found directly past the huge landslide gully (200m south of BFS) at the highest point of the dirt slopes (this is above a minor and very dirty "sub cliffline". The major crack line splitting its centre helps identify it along with a line of stainless leading up it.

Ethic inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

Don't bolt cracks. Please. If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.

Routes

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Grade Route

Quality sustained climbing at the grade. A good mix of adventure and fun sport climbing. Would be 3 stars if the first pitch was a little less sandy, the second, however, is one to remember! Take a single rack of cams (#0.5 - #3 BD. A #4 is nice but not necessary), roughly 12 draws and a couple slings for the belays (the bolts are a little small).

Pitch 1 - 20m - 21 (Fully bolted): Start off the small boulder up sandy wall and over small rootlet, 15m more leads to a belay in sandy cave (belay bolts on the outside face).

Pitch 2 - 30m - 21 (Mixed Trad): Step right from the belay, traversing the sandy underclings for 4m to the base of excellent hand crack. Blast up this picking up the bolts again once it widens beyond a #4 size and continuing up the continually good climbing all the way to the top.

The jam crack can be easily aided. Overall this route is very well protected. Rap back down to the ground to climb out something else or jug out the fixed line you left earlier.

FA: Chris Wallace & Izzy Bradley, 3 May

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