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Obesity Buttress

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 7
  • Ascents: 34
  • Aka: Big Fat Fin Slappers
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Description

Striking triple buttress system with some of the best climbing the escarpment has to offer. Big Fat Fin Slappers is the classic of the area however a couple more difficult routes await those keen for a cragging session around the corner.

Access issues inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

The land about 100m below the cliffs is private land, so please don't drop large rocks down the slope or walk down to into their backyards! They can probably also hear your screams. Peregrine Falcons inhabit the cliff and nest in early Spring usually. Expect to be dive bombed then.

Approach

Park here
https://goo.gl/maps/sJ8uiuFJUiBWzh5m8 34°15'49.8"S 150°56'52.1"E
Walk into here
https://goo.gl/maps/FcxEYytsUoi5LCPc9 34°15'45.7"S 150°57'33.9"E

At the "Warning, dangerous cliffs in the area" sign take the first good track on the right (roughly 40-50m past). There are some smaller phantom tracks that are developing as people are turning off too early, please try to avoid making these worse, the turn off is further past the sign than you think.

Tie knots
in the end of your rope and if you're not confident in climbing out FIX A ROPE! We do not need any more accidents on the escarpment, Also, WEAR HELMUTS!

In the worst case scenario it is possible to scramble out of the escarpment roughly 400m south (under the powerlines). There are basically zero ways in which it is a better option than simply prussicing out your fixed rope.

Descent notes

The obvious rap anchors you first see are the descent for Big Fat Fin Slappers. To get on the other routes here scramble 15m south and locate a couple U bolts in a cave (best) or the top out anchors for "Hecotes Perfectoes"(not as good). Fix a 30m static rope to these and rap in to the big ledge on their north (between BFFS and HP)

Ethic inherited from Scarborough Cliffs

Don't bolt cracks. Please. If bolting new routes please avoid squeeze jobs, linkups or variant starts/finishes. There is enough rock for heaps of independent lines. Go for a walk! If your proposed line comes within 3m of an established route, please ask the person whose route it is so as not to devalue their original vision.

Routes

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Grade Route

In its current state this climb would barely scrape through with one star, purely due to the epic position on the arete it might earn it. However much cleaning work is required before I would recommend you get on the route!

FA: Brendon Plaza & Mia Rusch

An amazing line encompassing some highly unique climbing for the northern Illawarra. Technical start leads to some interesting powerful movement on the arete, followed by epic pockets on the lip of the roof with uncanny exposure! Mandatory 60cm extender required for the roof bolt and a long to extended draw on the bolt just before the roof is ideal!

Direct line following the Sweetness of Life arete straight up onto the thin gently overhanging face, looks absolutely epic!

As good as they get on the escapement, layback & jam your way up the obvious corner crack, lower off on the anchors of "Ration The Passion" or continue up. bring doubles in medium cams if you really wanna lace her up.

Desperate start (stick clip the second bolt if possible) leads to pleasant climbing, punchy and interesting climbing out the left side of the rooflet. Shares lower offs with Comfortably Numb. Could be hard if you're short.

Excellent pitch of sporting goodness. Start off the ledge close to BFFS second pitch. Bouldery initial moves leading to slab, interesting rooflet and more slab. Lower off (recommended) or top out and belay from natural anchors or BFFS anchors (possible but un-ideal) .

A massive overhanging beak South of Kenny's Wall. If you like exposure, this is the climb for you! Follow the track to the cliff edge from the main path. Look for rap bolts on back of a large block. Fix a rope and rap 46m to the ground and climb out on another rope. If you want to complicate matters. you can rap twice on a 60m rope doubled past the first set of double rings (this will be the belay later) to a second set of double rings at a large ledge. From there you can rap to the bottom. It is possible that you won't be able to pull your rope down after the first abseil. Use draws or slings to extend the rap bolts and make sure you have an escape plan in case the rope gets stuck.

  1. 30m Climb through some weathered rock, skip the double rings that you used to abseil, and belay from the 2nd set of double bolts on a ledge in the corner before the airy traverse.

  2. 18m Up corner to Ubolt then left and up. There is a double ring anchor on top of the hanging arete from which to belay the second.

  3. 7m The third pitch is just one or two moves to get from this ledge back to the rap anchor at the top.

Set by Leo Stanners & iBlom, 10 Jan 2019

FFA: Leo Stanners, 10 Apr 2019

The good-quality orange face and verdant corner above the pre-traverse belay of Big Fat Fin Slappers. Requires camalots from #0.3 to 1, (double #0.75 is helpful) and a couple of medium nuts.

FA: Chris Wallace & Nick Roach, Jun 2020

Funky with rests, rap down 12m to DBB on Big Fat Fin Slappers. Arete around right of Stem and Leaf. Step left or straight up at top.

FA: Michael Law, 2020

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