The cliff on Keira lost to time and the jungle. Mostly adventurous trad routes with a few good sports routes thrown in. The climbing areas are split in a few clumps along the long East face ranging from fairly simple to access to downright arduous bush bashing. The furthest routes along are quite difficult to access with lots of gear, and rappelling south from the main lookout should be considered (e.g. above Desperado). Some old carrot bolts feature but they should be treated with great caution!

Access issues inherited from Wollongong

Many of the Wollongong crags are located in the Illawarra Escarpment State Conservation Area (IESCA). This region has had a chequered history in recent times, with large swathes of popular crags having to be closed after it was missed that a new NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) Plan of Management (PoM - 2018) had incidentally banned climbing along most of the escarpment. After a lobbying effort and a stroke of coincidental good luck an amended plan of management has been published (2023), modifying the plan to allow rock-climbing “… on the west- and south-facing cliffs of Mount Keira and on cliffs north of Bulli Pass."

Access comes with caveats and all climbers should be aware that that “… new bolts or anchors may only be installed with NPWS consent, and park infrastructure such as safety railing may not be used as anchor points as they have not been designed for this purpose. NPWS will not install, assess or guarantee bolts or other fixed protection points. Participants in these activities are solely responsible for their own safety.”

Given the pressures many rock-climbing areas have been under around Australia and the plethora of access issues that have followed it is imperative that climbers respect and heed the access requirements. Access granted can easily be access taken, noting from the PoM: “Locations where rock climbing and abseiling are allowed may be reviewed and altered to address safety issues, risks to visitors or impacts on cultural values or environmental values. Temporary closures of rock climbing and abseiling locations may be applied to limit impacts. Permanent closure of sites may also be necessary. NPWS will consult with representatives of the local climbing community before implementing any permanent closures.”

Please refer to the ‘Ethic” section for more notes on how to be a good steward for the climbing community.


Start from the East end of the main Keira lookout at the carpark. Over the fence and follow a well worn but steep foot track East down the mountain spur. Soon you will see access around the base of the cliff line on your right which starts the East Face.

Access is not strictly permitted (rockfall classified area) so please use discretion and caution.

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

The modern climbing scene and all the access issues that go with it requires modern ethic and all climbers should familiarise themselves with general good crag etiquette to ensure access is maintained into the future.

The following is a short summary for the area:

  • The Wollongong area has a historical mix of sport, trad, and bouldering, with fully bolted sport routes emerging as the dominant form in the last decade
  • Do not bolt or rebolt existing trad or bouldering routes
  • No chipping of the rock to alter the difficulty of a route or create new routes. Loose or dangerous rock may be removed with careful discretion
  • Top rope and lower-off through your own gear. Fixed anchor protection to be used for final lower off only to minimise wear
  • Minimise excessive chalk usage and make brushing of holds a regular routine. Consider using alternative chalk colours to minimise visual impact
  • Do not bush-bash new access trails, stick to existing marked trails where possible
  • Do not remove vegetation, both from around cliff bases and on the cliff. Brushing down built-up lichen, dirt and chalk off existing routes is acceptable maintenance
  • Do not leave rubbish or gear at the crag. Gear left may be confiscated by NPWS
  • Respect any announced closures of tracks, cliffs and areas in the region
  • Don’t play loud music at the crag, consider the amenity of nearby climbs and non-climbers alike
  • Speak up against anti-social behaviour, unsafe behaviour, or other activities that threaten access – contact your local advocacy association - ACANSW
  • Rebolting shall only be carried out by suitably competent and trained persons. The minimum standard is 316 stainless U-bolt or ring eye-bolts with pure epoxy glue. Refer to
  • Remember you are responsible for your own safety, and the safety of your friends!

Learn more at

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

The small roof with an old bolt on the lip. Up to roof and traverse left to ledge then escape.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn

"you would have to be one to climb this rubbish" Start in the corner marked MD. Lots of scrub and funnel web spider webs. Up the groove.

FA: Nelson Brothers

A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall to double rings

FA: Graeme Hill, Russell Chudleigh & Ant Prehn

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Tuff start and Climb the wall to double U anchors

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Start 2m left of MgTO3. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the new U bolt anchors.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to new U bolt anchors.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Left of tree. Up to double rings. Feel free to use tree as aid, drop the grade by 10 tho..

FA: Tim Booth, 2021

Start on the face right of warhol. climb up a few meters and transition to the right side of the arete. grit stone style climbing up to the shared anchor with warhol. (Keeping on the left side of the arete the whole way would be excellent and exciting / hard 27? Open project)

FA: Tim Booth, 2021

Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

The rock is pretty poor and the bolts badly need replacing! Leading this climb would get you into a maggot factory! Start 10m left of Warhol the shitty looking wall following the bolts to the lower off chain.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

4m to the left of this climb there is an unfinished project that starts just off the small corner. The bolts are pretty sus and it would give 21 a solid nudge

Warning! From here on in its pretty rough going. The next batch of climbs are a squeeze through thick vegetation and loose footings. With the exception of a few quality ring-bolted climbs most are dubious 'adventure climbs'. Watch out for old rusty bolts!

A climb for those addicted to adreneline! Start at the skinny crack. Up past the old creaking bolts.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn

A good climb to hone your human wedge skills. Climb the flared off-width groove. Start 3m to the left of Hughes Spews.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

Nice hard wall climbing. You'll need 5 of your brackets. Start to the left of the center of the wall, opposite Fools Rush In. Pull onto the wall and up the old bolts to the top.

We think its probably a 16. Here is the original description: The climb is unique in that you can get a rest (tsk tsk) by climbing up into a big black hole (fuck that!) in the roof before doing the crux. It is also unique in that it is probably the hardest 15 that you will ever climb. Start at the huge chimney at the left of The Crap Stops Here. Up the groove then go right when you get to the roof. Lots of rope drag (doubles are nice here).

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas & Graeme Hill

The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole. Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young

Strenuous climb. Start 1m left of Ringwraith. Follw the overhung scoop out left along the weakness, passing ringbolts until back to vertical. Up wall to double ring belay. Unclear if this project was ever completed?

The unpleasant corner crack. Up the crack using a hammer for aid. Still awaiting a free ascent!

FA: Graeme Hill & T.Ogle

Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 4 rings to double ring belay.

FA: Mark Woodard

The next series of climbs are a short walk through the scrub.

Marked with a small faded 'J'. Climb the crack to the ledge. Move left to a double corner then climb to the top.

A nice crack. Starts left of Jay at the initials MD. Up the crack to the ledge, then follow the final moves of Jay.

FA: Nelson Brothers

One for us botanical minded! Start 2m left of Mangy Donkey in the right hand corner. Climb the corner.

FA: Bill James

An old aid climb. Line of rusty carrots.

FA: Bill James

8m left of Gourmet at the thin crack. Bouldery moves then up the crack to ledge. Right traverse to groove then up to next ledge. Final moves follow the bulgy off-width OR follow the crack at the far right of the ledge.

FA: Russell Chudleigh

Start in the lefthand corner 3m left of Gallows Tree. Up the flake and to the ledge. Layback (crux) around the roof then up to ledge above. Your choice of the cracks above.

FA: Bill James

Start 4m left of Windy, under the overhanging corner. Up the corner to the smallish roof and traverse to the left to those jugs. Up to a belay in the groove. Follow the cracks up just right of the arete above the overhang and on up wall following your nose. Mixed trad route with carrots to start. The line of ringbolts left of the arete is a totally seperate route.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas, 1980

Starts just left of the starting corner of Desperado. Up the arete and wall passing 9 RBs to double RB anchors. Worth the deathwalk, or an easy long rap in on a spare rope.

FA: Rod Young & Alistair Fogg, 1999

The big chimney 10m left of Desperado. Climb the chimney until you're level with the traverse line. Traverse out to the right and belay at the smallish ledge with the rusty bolts. Continue right until you hit the groove of Desperado.

FA: Bill James & Russell Chudleigh

" A typical death lead of Muir's ". Start as for Sacrifice. Up the chimney to the traverse line, then out to the bolt belay under the small corner. Head up the weakness through the overhangs to the ledge. Rap off.

FA: John Muir, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

Staright up the chimney as for 'Death's Head' and keep going.

FA: Bill James

A thin face crack. Start 3m to the left of Sacrilege. Up to the ledge past the bolt on the right. Up the arete on the left to get to the base of the crack. Climb the crack to the ledge. Climb the wall to the larger ledge and rap off.

FA: Ant Prehn, Dave Thomas & Graeme Hill

WhooHoo a chimney! Start 3m to the left of Grouples. Climb the chimney and off right to the ledge. Climb the crack to larger ledge and rap off.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

4m to the left of Fashion B under the small roof with the corner crack. Up the corner past the rooves. Right to the ledge, climb the wall and rap of larger ledge.

FA: Graeme Hill & Jon Muir

3m left of Bog Spavin. The off-width corner. Climb the corner and rap off ledge.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Start 3m left of Wind Galls at the cracks in the wall. Up the wall to tree, rap off.

FA: P.Muttlicker (?) & Russell Chudleigh

Start as for Chunder Crack. Climb the crack then up the steep wall. Climb arete and onto ledge. Climb the diagonal to the 'slot'. Groove to the right of the slot and swing out left onto a bushy ledge. Move right and up to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill & Ant Prehn

Rings with clip-and-go anchor

Cool layback at top

These last two climbs are by themselves a short walk around in the next cliff area.

Start somewhere over near the lookout on the righthand side. The oversized jamb crack that starts above the smallish overhang. Over roof to the top.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

A good first section if a little hard to find. The climb starts 3m left of Satan Sorrow. Climb up the crack in the corner to the ledge, good pro all the way. Up the chimney to top out

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Beyond here is underneath the the South lookout and the massive rockfall scree field - beware!

Did you know?

Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this


Check out what is happening in East Face.

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文