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Description

A small crag area on a North-East facing, just below and unseen from the Mount Keira lookout. Features a stunning pocketed sandstone roof and other wall types. No useful development, trad or toprope required.

In 1994 - "Good in the morning sun, and worthwhile for bouldering and top-roping, and not much else. "

Access issues inherited from Mount Keira

The Mount Keira summit park is an easy 15 minute drive from the Wollongong CBD. The park is surrounded by the Illawarra Escarpment State Conversation area and is covered in thick sub-tropical rainforest and eucalypt forest, and is open to the public all year round.

Be aware the vehicle gate to the summit park is closed and locked after hours.

Due to rockfalls in recent years some parts of the area are closed, though the West Face and connecting path (Dave Walsh Track) are declared open by the National Parks and Wildlife Service. See http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/illawarra-escarpment-state-conservation-area/local-alerts for details.

Approach

Start at the Mount Keira North lookout (the big lookout spot off the carpark), from here jump the fence East and head down the well worn ridge spur path to the East for a few minutes till you can walk around to your left (North) and reach the base of the cliffs below the North lookout.

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

History

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Chunder, Hill, Prehn, Ogle, Burton. Some original descriptions from ViBeS & Tucker

Routes

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Grade Route

Start at the sandy beach, up through a veritable minefield of the sussest rock you may ever find to reach the main ledge. Gingerly move out towards the nose then through more suss rock to find the good hold around the nose to get scramble up on top of the nose and out.

A roof climb equipped with hoonkas (big farkin buckets!) Start under the overhang. up the orange crud to the good rock. Under roof to lip and out aroundlip to the small cave. Up corner to the top.

FA: Chunder, Graeme Hill & Prehn

A roof climb. 3m right of Pox On A hot Thin Roof. Up the choss to dyno out roof and up left and finish as for Pox On A hot Thin Roof.

Start 2m right of Out Of The Blue Into The Pox. Out and around the roof and up to the top.

FA: Chudleigh & Graeme Hill

The black coloured wall left of the crack. 2 carrots.

Well it may have been a good climb once, unfortunately a lot of the face has flaked off and more is ready to go. Dangerous! A shame as there are some really unique textures and holds on this blackened wall.

FA: Graeme Hill

A classic crack.

FA: Hill & T Ogle

Chunky bouldery start over a series of ledges to the big cave to catch your breath then power on up to find the good holds in the vertical crack then move out left on the ledge to find a spider cave pocket to haul yourself up for a big finishing move.

FA: Ant Prehn & Burton

3m right of The Great Gastric. Grovel up the V shaped groove.

FA: Graeme Hill & T Ogle

Further around the Pox Crag path, a vertical slab filled with small poxy features. Clearly has been climbed before as evidenced from a few old carrots, but any history has been lost.

Further still around. Nice slight ramp with delicate features. Don't use the chimney.

Activity

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