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Book Boulder

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Description

The book boulder is a unique prow of good rock (for Keira) with some high quality lines. Please stick to trails and respect access in this area. Having said that, there is not yet a clear trail to this sector. Climbs are listed from left to right when facing the boulder.

Access issues inherited from Mount Keira

The Mount Keira summit park is an easy 15 minute drive from the Wollongong CBD. The park is surrounded by the Illawarra Escarpment State Conversation area and is covered in thick sub-tropical rainforest and eucalypt forest, and is open to the public all year round.

Be aware the vehicle gate to the summit park is closed and locked after hours.

Due to rockfalls in recent years some parts of the area are closed, though the West Face and connecting path (Dave Walsh Track) are declared open by the National Parks and Wildlife Service. See http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/illawarra-escarpment-state-conservation-area/local-alerts for details.

Approach

To approach from the west face, keep walking west, staying in the same elevation as nitro wall. See map. Alternative approach: walk back down the road to the Mt Keira lookout. As the road turns right, jump the barricade on the left side of the road and descend (carefully) via the large gully strewn with a road sign and wheelie bin.

Ethic inherited from Wollongong

Retro-bolting of established trad routes is frowned upon. There has been some controversy in recent years about new routes being bolted above tourist tracks. Please don't do this.

Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Consider bolting single lines rather than many link ups and eliminates, where there are established lines also consider the need to add bolts to establish link ups. It can often create an eyesore.

It is a privilege to climb in the Illawarra to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

History

View historical timeline

Matt Hoshke discovered this boulder in around 2017 and summited the classic arete-mantle, calling it the Big Big Book of Everything

Routes

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Grade Route

Start in the middle of the ledge as for Mr. Marsupial, and head straight up on crimps, to an easy mantle to top out directly above the start.

FA: Zachary Tynan, 3 Sep 2019

Matched start on the left-most jug, then traverse right with sparse feet to the crack and head straight up to top out as for TBOC.

FA: Zachary Tynan, 3 Sep 2019

Do Mr. Marsupial, but instead of topping out as for the V1, traverse the entire upper slab of the book boulder to top out as for TBBOE.

Set by Zachary Tynan

FA: Mark McGivern, May 2020

Sit start on obvious jug, then move up and left to a slopey top out.

FA: Brett H, 23 Dec 2018

Sit start on the obvious two jugs as for Keira Sutra, and head straight up the funky crack to top out directly above starting holds. Feels very hard until you get the right beta.

Start matched in the large hole/jug, and head straight up the crack.

Sit start on jugs as for Keira Sutra, then head up and trend right to top out about 1.5 metres right of Book of Cracks.

FA: Mark McGivern, 22 Aug 2019

Start sitting at the obvious jugs on the LHS, move across the lip utilising various underclings in the roof to summit via the Big Book LHV. Funky, interesting and unlike anything else in the area that I know of!

FA: George Broadfoot, 15 Aug 2019

Start with left hand in nice undercling in roof and right on a decent pinch. Kick right foot up into the jug and you are away, head left to good 2 finger pocket/sloper at the lip and then mantle.

Heinous line of crimps to mantle the face. Start at jug as for TBBBOE

FA: Paul Rattenbury, 10 Jun 2019

Instead of moving right hand to the lip, go with the left to a shallow pocket then RH bumps up to the good edge and mantle.

FA: Mark McGivern, 8 Aug 2019

Start on the rhs of the boulder at a big obvious jug. Move onto the roof jugs, go right hand to the lip, then move up to the good edge via slopers and mantle...

FA: matt hoschke, 1 Jan 2018

Start at the jug as for TBBOE, but instead of reaching for roof jugs move right around the lip via good (but sharp) crimps, mantle and top out as for TBBOE.

Set by Mark McGivern

FA: Paul Rattenbury, 21 Aug 2019

A nice overhung wall located about 20 metres to the right of the book boulder as you approach from above.

Sit start on with RH on nice pocket, LH crimp, move straight up the undercling flake with some sick moves to a suprisingly easy top out. Be careful of the razor sharp pebbles!

FA: Mark McGivern, May 2020

The hard Arête project to the right of Split Tip. Maybe V9-10?

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Activity

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