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Routes as sport in East Face

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
17 Up Against The Wall

A face climb. Start 1m left of Manic Depressive on the wall. Climb the wall to double rings

FA: Graeme Hill, Russell Chudleigh & Ant Prehn

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 12m, 4
18 Magnesium Turkeynate (MgTO3)

A nice climb. Start left of Up Against The Wall. Tuff start and Climb the wall to double U anchors

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 10m, 3
24 Frustrations

Start 2m left of MgTO3. Pull hard onto wall and move left towards the arete. Thin moves then easier to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 10m, 3
23 Canned Horsemeat

A classic route, full of overhanging jug work and medium small holds. Climb the overhung wall left of the arete. Out the roof and up the overhung arete to the halfway mark. Move left and out the up to the jugs above the last bolt, move right back to arete and finish up at the new U bolt anchors.

FA: Graeme Hill & Russell Chudleigh

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 10m, 5
21 Saviour Machine

Start 3m left of Canned Horsemeat. Climb the wall/flake/groove to ledge. 3 bolts to new U bolt anchors.

FA: Graeme Hill, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 12m, 3
21 It's not a Tuna

Left of tree. Up to double rings. Feel free to use tree as aid, drop the grade by 10 tho..

FA: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 12m, 3
24 Bangers & Pash

Start on the face right of warhol. climb up a few meters and transition to the right side of the arete. grit stone style climbing up to the shared anchor with warhol. (Keeping on the left side of the arete the whole way would be excellent and exciting / hard 27? Open project)

FA: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 4
25 Warhol

Worth doing if you have some skin you don't need! Start across the gully at the steep wall with the fallen boulder. Up onto the boulder then make a move to the pocket on the right, past the bolt. Crank left on crimpers and power to the diagonal flake. Crank up past the horizontals then onto the thin crack to the top.

FA: Ant Prehn, 1989

Maint: Tim Booth, 2021

Sport 12m, 4
20 Mystery Achievements

The rock is pretty poor and the bolts badly need replacing! Leading this climb would get you into a maggot factory! Start 10m left of Warhol the shitty looking wall following the bolts to the lower off chain.

FA: Jon Muir, Ant Prehn & Dave Thomas

Sport 15m, 5
20 Five Bolts To Nowhere

4m to the left of this climb there is an unfinished project that starts just off the small corner. The bolts are pretty sus and it would give 21 a solid nudge

SportProject 25m, 2
23 The Crap Stops Here

Nice hard wall climbing. You'll need 5 of your brackets. Start to the left of the center of the wall, opposite Fools Rush In. Pull onto the wall and up the old bolts to the top.

Sport 17m, 4
24 Ringwraith

The arete off the left bumcheek of Bills Bumhole. Up the steeply overhung juggy arete to where it eases off and the holds run out (the sphincter?!? LOL). Nice tech moves up to belay double rings

FA: Ant Prehn & Rod Young

Sport 12m, 6
24 PRO

Strenuous climb. Start 1m left of Ringwraith. Follw the overhung scoop out left along the weakness, passing ringbolts until back to vertical. Up wall to double ring belay. Unclear if this project was ever completed?

SportProject 12m, 1
20 Improving On Nature

Face climbing on ironstone edges. Up the wall with a tricky move down low. 4 rings to double ring belay.

FA: Mark Woodard

Sport 10m, 5
21 Super Creeps

Starts just left of the starting corner of Desperado. Up the arete and wall passing 9 RBs to double RB anchors. Worth the deathwalk, or an easy long rap in on a spare rope.

FA: Rod Young & Alistair Fogg, 1999

Sport 28m, 9
20 M

Rings with clip-and-go anchor

Sport 15m, 6
18 JK

Cool layback at top

Sport 20m, 6

Showing all 17 routes.

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