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The Dug Out

12
BLDV

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Description

A sweet little cave with great rock and a couple of fantastic lines. The only draw back is that water runs off the top out for a while after rain.

NB: There is a big flakey jug at the back L/H side of the cave that looks like it might snap off. It probably will! no problems use this hold

© (dazzla)

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

Follow the cliff line of the break out lane left till you reach the cave.

© (dazzla)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Esentially a more direct route to the extended line. Start as for that problem and gain the big mushroom type hold in the roof. From here fire a big move to a bad flat block in the roof and re-join the established line near the very end. All the Holds of the established are not used untill right near the end just before the big horn. Tricky, Tricky

Start: As for the Extended Line

FA: Daniel da Silva

This problem starts as for the Established line but heads left, reversing the start of Extended line to gain the big rounded hole. Confused yet? I am.

Now move around to the left face and fire up for the top of the groove to top out.

Start: As for Established line

FA: dan

Sit start low in the back of the cave and follow out the obvious line of incut edges to the big horn. Slap around to the slopey top out. slighty easier if you finish a bit over right but often wet.

Start: At the back of cave matched on first incut edge

Crawl way down in the back of the cave, all the way down there in the little stream. Follow the rail leftish to the big pocket,then some tricky moves back right lead back into the establish line. Finish as this problem.

Start: Way down the left hand side of the cave 'matched' at the base of the toilet bowel scoop. can be sit started if it's not too wet

FA: dan, 2000

The easiest problem here and a nice one too. Basically start up Fast ball but from the big jug break left and finish up established line. Not easy

Start: As for Fast ball

FA: dan, 2000

This is the nastiest finish going. Frustration! and it's usually wet. Start on some deep breaks at the back r/h side of the cave. Climb out to the big obvious jug now try to climb directly out the very steep roof to the rounded top out 1m right of the other problems. Uses the bad bad pinch type hold that looks like it may have broken. Heart breaking last throw to the slopers

Start: Back r/h Side of cave

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2007

As for fast ball but move left through poor holds to slap out the blunt left hand little 'Arete' of the cave. Still avoids using any holds from the established line for your hands especially the huge jug on the lip.

Start: Sit start as for 'Back Burner'

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Start: As for Extened Line and link into all of fast ball or fast ball variant from the back ledge. Does not use any of the finish holds of 'Extended line' The big lip jug is off!

FA: Daniel da Silva, 2000

Start at 'back burner' and reverse the 'established line' and come back up via 'Curve Ball' and finish as for that problem.

Start on right most jug and dyno to the lip. Mantle straight over.

FA: Mattias Braach-Maksvytis, 15 Dec 2015

Start as for established line and head to right big dinner plate jug. Then head straight out through small crimps and an undercling near the lip in the middle of the lip.

FA: Michael Tonon, 17 Jul 2012

Start as for extended line but finish as for batter up

FA: michael tonon, 14 Oct 2014

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