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Taufenkopf

20
UIAA

Seasonality

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Summary

Historical climbing area with one of the biggest number of multi-pitch routes in the Zillertal.

Description

The routes in the southwestern and central section are well equipped with bolts. In contrast, you will find almost no bolts at all in the south wall.

Due to Taufenkopf’s south-facing orientation, you can enjoy wonderful climbing on sunny days from February onwards. In summer, however, it can get quite hot. Autumn is certainly one of the most beautiful times to climb Taufenkopf.

Access issues

Please be aware of the potential danger of avalanches in late winter or spring!

Approach

Follow the avalanche alley and signs until the edge of the forest, from where the path continues alongside the rock face.

History

View historical timeline

Taufenkopf is one of the oldest multi-pitch areas. Darshano L. Rieser and Gerhard Hörhager celebrated the first ascent of "Sei Poet" in 1984.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1 5- 30m
2 7+ 35m
3 7- 25m
4 6 25m
5 6+ 35m

prominent dihedral mostly bolted, but some gear comes in handy.

FA: Reinhold Scherer & Co.

1 7 35m
2 5- 25m
3 7+ 25m
4 8 35m
5 8 30m
6 7- 25m

After pitch 2 you may also follow the "Yosemite-Variante" that requires natural protection.

FA: Reinhold Scherer & Co.

These routes are just where the "Taufenkopf-double-dihedral" turns south. Left of the corner are Sei Poet and right of it Sei Prophet, Sei Chaot and the variants Supergau and Supergaude.

There are several additional variants, linking different pitches of these routes.

Same beginning as Sei Poet. The last 3 pitches are well bolted sport climbs.

Cams 0,3-4, set of nuts recommended.

1 6
2 7+
3 7-
4 7
5 8
6 8-
7 7+/8-

This is Sei Poet with the left start.

FA: R. Scherer, 2002

1 6 25m
2 5+ 45m
3 7- 30m
4 7+ 30m
5 7 30m
6 4+ 20m

FA: Reinhold Scherer

FA: Gerhard Hörhager & Darshano L. Rieser, 1984

1 6 20m
2 7- 20m
3 4 25m
4 6+ 35m
5 6+/7- 30m
6 5+ 30m
7 6+/7- 20m
8 6+ 20m
9 5+ 35m

Same beginning as Sei Poet but then crosses Seo Chaot to the right.

Pitch 8 has multiple variants with grades up to 8-.

Set of friends and stoppers.

1 8- 35m
2 7- 20m
3 7- 35m
4 7- 35m
5 2 40m
6 7- 30m
7 8 40m
8 6 30m
  • Pitch 2 is a long left traverse
  • Pitch 5 is a long traverse back to the right
1 7- 25m
2 6+ 25m
3 6 20m
4 3 30m
5 7-/7 25m
6 8 40m
7 6 30m

Shares last pitch with Sei Chaot.

1 8+/9- 25m
2 6- 15m
3 6 20m
4 3 30m
5 7-/7 25m
6 8 40m
7 6 30m

Right start of Sei Godot. Links into Sei Godot in the second pitch.

1 7- 25m
2 6+ 25m
3 6 20m
4 3 30m
5 7-/7 25m
6 8+ 40m
7 6 30m

Left variant of Sei Godot just before Sei Godot joins Sei Chaot. The grades here reflect the start of Sei Godot. The variant of pitch 6 (Supergaude) links into Sei Cahot a bit below the anchor.

1 7+ 40m
2 6- 30m
3 3 30m
4 7- 30m
5 8 15m
6 7- 35m

Start is just right of Supergau. As the first pitch is very hard, you may also choose the alternative start using the first pitch of Be Cosmiq which starts a few meters to the right.

Crosses Be Cosmiq at pitch 3 (the band).

Pitch 5 is often wet!

FA: Darshano L. Rieser & Fränky Heim, Jul 2013

1 6- 35m
2 7-/7 30m
3 3 30m
4 6+ 20m
5 8+ 40m
6 9- 40m

Starts about 5m right of Be Clear.

FA: Darshano L. Rieser, Uwe Eder & Kristina Graf, 4 Mar 2013

1 8-/8 20m
2 5+ 40m
3 7- 20m
4 8+ 20m
5 8 30m
6 7- 20m
7 6+ 25m
8 8- 20m

Set of friends and nuts.

FA: Mike Pfund & Uwe Eder, Oct 2012

These routes are at the abse of the Taufenkopf. Some of the lines intersect with older lines.

Starts left and above Kain und Abel.

1 7- 35m
2 4+ 20m
3 7 35m
4 5 20m

Both variants for the last pitch are graded 5.

FA: Darshano L. Rieser, Gerhard Hörhager, Franz Eberharter & Wolfgang Hintner, 1984

FA: Uwe Eder, 2008

1 6-
2 7-

Right of Kain und Abel, follow the trail a bit higher up.

FA: Darshano L. Rieser, Gerhard Hörhager, Franz Eberharter & Wolfgang Hintner, 1984

1 6-
2 6-

Alternative second pitch for Der Weg der Mimosen. Crosses out right after pitch 1.

1 4
2 6

Starts right of Der Weg der Mimosen.

FA: Darshano L. Rieser & Wolfgang Hintner, 1984

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